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Hopefully somebody could help me with this issue I haven't gotten to it yet and it's concerning that I haven't. I feel like I'm between an oil ring seal failure in one of the rotor's or what I'm hoping some type of like or gasket that's burnt or messed up.
The diagnosis is I just bought this car it's a really nice color and bodykit, an 05 Shinka, automatic, and the first thing when I started it up about 20 seconds after it started smoking real bad out of the hood, further visual inspection it (what seems to me) be mainly coming from the bottom-right post and gasket loop of the Plenum intake manifold,
No engine light's, no code's, hell it doesnt even over-heat, the kicker is it doesn't leak visually out the bottom anywhere, the real kicker is that the smoke is white, pure white smoked out 4-way intersections on my way home with it, the entire time it trailed smoke out under the intake and it smoked pretty bad out tailpipe too.
So pure white smoke leads me to believe it's not oil being burnt from the engine, smells like old oil and I already pulled out from the airbox to the intake, the throttle body was pretty dirty and in the groove lines of the big vaccum line connecting the throttle body and airbox had gunk oil sitting in all the grooves, will post pic's but it's almost like casper come's and ****'s my car's that I buy because man do they have the weirdest issues. Thank You everybody in advance!
Did it do this during the test drive before you bought it? Did you get a compression test?
Oil intake could just be overfilled oil, check the level. If the level is fine, it's oil being pushed up by blowby at high rpm. Clean it out and see if it comes back. If it does you can bandaid it with a catch can but it does mean the engine is not doing great.
Smoking 20 seconds after startup sounds like an exhaust leak - burning oil. Nothing under the hood can get hot enough to burn anything in 20 seconds, so it must be exhaust. If it *only* smokes after sitting for a while, could be a coolant seal failure. It will seep while sitting and then smoke until it burns off the coolant
It did, the whole way back, thankfully it was only a hair above an hour drive. Honestly thought it was knocking at one point lol but I think control arm might just b loose i hear it bottom down every time I jack it up. Also sadly I havent gotten to colmpression test it, after buying a truck thinking I'd have to haul my 2nd fix-n-sell and then buying it I'm pretty cutting it with $, can buy a cheaper kit though any recommendations?
And uh haha funny you say it had no oil in it, so the story from the sellers was the guy that owned it parked in a ditch one day after finding out it had no oil in it, idk if he just didn't put any or what it was, but they said they did an oil change and I believe them honestly because I took it out the next day to see if It'd act any different and the oil pressure was at 0, was able to kick it back up for ab 10 sec or so at 6k rpm but it stopped burning smoke everywhere, which led me to believe all the oil just burned up. Attempted an 'oil change' and there was just no oil bone dry, had residue and buildup sludge not much but at obv places inside engine's intake.
Coolant level hasnt changed at all, still the same when I bought it, looks just like old coolant, is brown and gunked but old coolant lol. And it honestly does take it about 30 sec to start smoking atleast from operating temp. The airbox to the intake is ripped out atm so cant start or do any testing, it mainly seemed like the smoke was coming from the bottom right intake flange with 2 10mm nut's, the same flange also had white mold like **** on the rim of where the intake gasket seals into it.
It also smells like a combo of gas/oil idk if my nose isnt on point but would that associate with your exhaust leak theory? What type of leak do you think it could be? Also hella preesh for commenting, seen you've been on hella og forum posts
Also would any type of spray sealant or seafoam seem to fix this issue? I wasnt sure if since an internal oil ring leak could be a possibility if using Seafoam for any carbon and gunk buildup but with it already smoking like it is would be a good idea or not. Also not sure what type of sealant if I were to use one.
Wait it was run without oil by the previous owner.... And then it was run without oil pressure till 6k? Well, if it wasn't dead before, it's probably dead now.
Nothing you can put in the tank or the oil fill can fix compression loss.
If it was me, I'd get under it and go over the entire engine start to finish to make sure you at least have all the parts and find leaks in the process. Pull the spark plugs and see what they tell you. Read rx8help.com to get up to speed on typical problems. Kinda hard to diagnose otherwise.
Well it burnt up the oil from it smoking lol they said and yeah at about 5 and a half k rpm, and I've already really went over as much as I could without pulling internal parts. Also in the process of getting race-ramp's 12-in wheel blocks so I can even drop transmission to pull engine if it is coolant seal ring in a rotor.
On the drive back it was just constantly burning the oil and thats why it was smoking, but its not blue at all one bit, I had a tail spotter following and they said it was pure white it smoked out 4-way's and I had to really give it gas when it was stopped.
The thing is, I've driven a fair share of rx8's, and I feel like I would by the way it runs, know if it had low compression even with this issue going on. I say that because it shifts super smooth, it only has 89k miles on it, internally and all-over wise, it looks like they just didnt know anything about cars in general the guy that owned it from the people that sold it to me, just the way they talked but I'll see if I can pull plugs and give you some info. Also if it was compression you'd think there'd be a code right? Atleast a CEL for sure, it's just a mystery. Also anything with ignition coils have anything to do with it?
(Edit) - So the comparison from blue to white is just to know if theres any blue hue at all to rule out oil, I'm guessing I'm talking more about 'Gray' Smoke which is indicating oil spilling on the engine, but its definitely not enough to cause the smoke unless I just cant visibly see any oil spewing, the only thing I can say is directly where the electric plugin is where you drain the coolant from the engine on the bottom near where the oil pan's drain bolt is, theres previous gunk run down and around the bottom of the oil pan, Idk by location like if something above it is draining on it but yeah no fluids touching the ground.
Once again Preeesh mane, this problem is a killer.
There's no CEL for compression loss, the engine has no way of knowing that. But so far it's not so much compression loss as bearings and oil/coolant seals I would be worried about. If you have oil control ring failure, it can actually mask compression loss because the extra oil helps seal.
There's no CEL for compression loss, the engine has no way of knowing that. But so far it's not so much compression loss as bearings and oil/coolant seals I would be worried about. If you have oil control ring failure, it can actually mask compression loss because the extra oil helps seal.
Loki, it's been my understanding a CEL can occur from loss of compression causing other issues?
Loki, it's been my understanding a CEL can occur from loss of compression causing other issues?
You could have misfire codes but that's more to do general health of cat/coils which also cause poor compression. If you just had poor compression and everything else was fine, you'd have hard hot start problems, but not necessarily a CEL.
Also compression in a rotary is higher at speed than at starter or idle speed, so you won't necessarily feel a difference while driving. Seems like the first signs are either hard hot starts or barfing oil into the intake at high rpm.
Well rpm doesn't fluctuate smoke, it's pretty constant once it get's heated up. I was looking last night just to see, and I have to ask because I couldn't find it. Does the automatic's (Even Shinka) Have the vfad system? As in the one-way check-valve and the oil catch can and the other tube at the top of the airbox's accordion tube, because I remember the manuals have them.
Surprising it's not bad on hot starts, hot started it I want to say 4 times on the way back home, was afraid to try lol but it hot starts like an rx8. Another thing is the airbox is clean, no spitback or anything actually traveled through the accordion tube and it wasn't a ton it was just enough. I do want to also add that there was the oil metering nozzle hose that connects from (oil metering nozzle) to the top of the airbox's accordion tube to the right of the maf, and the plastic elbow nipple was broken, already have a new one coming in but idk if it would cause anything.
4-port automatics like yours don't have VFAD. But... even with VFAD there's no catch can involved? And it connects under the throttle body, not on top of the accordion.
Cracked nipples/hoses will definitely cause drivability issues, the intake needs to be airtight after the MAF. Definitely want to fix that, but makes me wonder if underhood smoke might be from a cracked oil injector line dripping on the exhaust manifold, maybe have a look in there and make sure the lines are intact. They can become fragile with age. If you have pictures or video, that might help too.
Oh I must've seen some popular aftermarket diagram, and definitely will post pictures just fixing to go and take out spark plugs to take pics of them as well. And where to the lines usually run from and to? Will also post pics of intake
The diagram in this thread is correct (for a 6-port, so you won't have the VFAD). https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...iagram-214910/
Ignore the hand-drawn catch-can in there.. although if it is barfing oil and you want to put a bandaid on it while you figure things out, that's where it would go.
10-4, so I just took some pics and I'll post them in a sec, but I just got off the phone with a relative, they've been driving and working on ford's their whole life, and they said since the nipple was broken off the accordion tube, the top right one, it's not getting proper vacuum back to the oil metering pump so it builds up oil pressure in the bottom of the oil pan (the residue all over the bottom of oil pan above electrical connector), then burps oil it out of the half-working intake seal that connects to the right flange of the manifold.
So I wasn't able to get a good pic just because I spent 40 min trying to take off driver wheel and lugnuts didn't budge a bit, I think the tard impacted smh. I'll jack up a 4 way and try not to strip them later lol but I'll eventually get a pic of bottom of oil pan where (in theory) oil is over-combusting and overtime seeps slowly due to faulty pressure. 'Oil Burn?' Right manifold flange Topview + 'Oil Burn?'
That's not exactly how it works. The oil pump doesn't take vacuum nor build up pressure, that vacuum line goes to the oil injectors to equalize pressure between combustion chamber and the intake for reasons I'm not 100% clear on. But it wouldn't cause an oil leak, what causes a build up of pressure in the pan is blowby from side seal degradation. That forces oil up the fill neck. Is your oil filter on snug? Could be misting through there. Doesn't look like anything above the oil filter is oily?
Mb for the late(r) reply, the filter is on snug, the last one was put on pretty dang tight, it does seem to be blowing out there more than anything but I did clean the flange's prior taking a pic, can post pic of the mold **** that was growing on the rim where the orange seal sits, and the intake is above it, it's the only other first place it could be pushing through besides the oil filter but honestly I'm wanting to put a lot more on it that it's the intake.
And hm well dang, so it's ruled out as side seals or?
I guess that'd be my option rn just to see if the broken emissions hose would've done anything, and like you said I honestly don't think it would but gotta try ig. I'll post white mold on flange o-ring seal tomorrow after installing new nipple fitting for emissions hose and putting intake-airbox back on. If the smoke pops back up after cleaning could it have anything to do with the oil cooler?
You will definitely have smoke for some time until it passes everything that's coating the intake manifold where you can't reach. But it should start to diminish if it's not burping any more. Don't rev it too high, jist drive normal. Blowby is worst at high load hogh rpm.
I don't know if it's ruled out exactly, I'm not there with the car, but if, once you've cleared it, it burps oil again, then.. yeah
Oil coolers are far from hot things, don't see how they could be involved in the smoke.
Gotcha 10-4 well today I'll replace the broken hose and put everything back and start it and hopefully see if it get's anywhere. And could anything get clogged in the oil cooler causing such?
Hella preesh mane!
Oil coolers can leak but I have a hard time imagining how they could cause smoke. It's on the wrong side to be dripping on anything too hot like the exhaust.
05-15-2024, 08:19 PM
