Try it, that's all I can say!

 

Try it, that's all I can say.

You can also do some investigative searches on here if you don't believe and you will find it hidden in the dark recesses of this site. I didn't come up with it, but I tried it when someone PM'd me with the info and it worked. That person also link a thread or two about it.


AND..............if it does work in your car, then report back somewhere and let me know. You may in fact feel a real difference.

Why would I prank a fellow Floridian.............I know how hot it gets here?
You will notice it more in the Summer if you do it for sure!

 

Wow.. I though BMWs were the only cars that did stuff like that. Know any other tricks?

 

Today in canada there was a snow storm and i got stuck, after finally getting out there was a bit of yellow / green liquid in the snow and then when i parked there was more as i went in reverse and revealed where i was previously, but i cant see where it is coming from because the snow is 2 high, im thinking it might be the rear liquid oil of the rwd or some kind of coolant but im really not sure, i as in a hurry to post thats why i didnt really post in the right section sry for that

 

No problems.

Green means coolant. You likely have a small coolant leak from one of your hoses. Figuring out which one might be troublesome and/or a pain, but if you get under the hood with a flashlight you should be able to locate it. It could be a crack in a hose itself, or a loosened hose.


Technically, it could be overflow as well, but given the cold, you probably aren't overheating.

 

alright thanks, i dont really want to bring it to mazda cause my dealership steals money with 100$/h and i dont have money for that.. do you know how i could fix it myself like a new hose or simply patch a hole depending on the problem should work?

 

Yeah, there are some hose repair kits out there, as well as repair hoses and then just ordering the hoses you need from Mazmart on here for reasonable prices. It shouldn't be anything horrible or anything.

 

Alright Thanks RIWWP really appreciated

 

bump for a good thread that shouldn't go unseen.

 

Good thread, RIWWP!

Stickumed.

 

Awesome thanks for sticking it Stealth. Hopefully it will get seen more often and if not it will be easier to link to.

 

Added the thread focused google search tip, cleaned up some references that have been changed by time or events (such as the AP being discontinued)

And letting this serve as a bump back to the top. Been noticing some more newbie threads recently.


Edit: Wait, completely missed that it made sticky status!

This makes me happy in my pants

 

Oh, i've been a member since Nov. 07. I forgot to signed in.

Hello, my name is Monchie and i reside in Las Vegas, NV.

I have an 05 Mazda RX8 (slammed), thank you and have a nice day.

 

@RIWWP ...
I know it's your thread but you are going to ruin it.

This conversation belongs elsewhere not here.
Don't ruin a perfectly good thread.

Yeah yeah you can say that this is a potential new owner .... but I say troll.
Ignore him and he will go away.

 

MT = Manual Transmission
AT = Automatic Transmission

The ATs have a 7,000rpm redline (to protect the transmission), the MTs have a 9,000rpm redline. That 2,000rpm difference matters in terms of acceleration times/rates, since you can stay at a lower gear for longer and/or at a higher speed. It's about a 30-40hp loss, not being able to use the higher RPM.

 

Looking for a user car buyers check list, questions to ask, what to look for to identify the known issues. I have read this forum top to bottom and see what I should replace (plugs, coils, etc) but what should I look for as far as know if the engine is still solid, if the cat has failed, etc...

 

Do a compression test of the engine.

 

From all my reading here a bad compression level can just mean it needs new plugs, coils, ect. right? What levels should I find as acceptable? Not just passing but healthy

 

Each rotor forms 3 chambers with the housing, so you need all three individual compression results for both rotors. And the compression is dependent on cranking RPM, so the rpm of the test must be known before the readings can be interpreted.

 

For the engine:
Get a compression test. Unless you happen to live close to one of the handful of people that own a rotary compression tester, this is best accomplished at your local Mazda dealer. Most dealers charge $60 to $120 for the test. Mazda spec is 6.9bar / 100 PSI or higher for all 6 rotor faces (3 per rotor), at 250rpm. Lower RPM usually means a failing starter, and will return lower numbers, but there is a correction they can do to find out what the numbers are, normalized to 250rpm. A new starter cranks around 275rpm, and will return slightly higher numbers. Numbers lower than spec are considered failing, and qualify the engine for a replacement under the engine core warranty, if the car is still covered by the warranty (which requires not previously voiding it for some reason, and the records to backup that the engine was maintained properly). Factory engines are typically in the low 8.x bar range (116+ PSI), though 9s have been heard of, and are common in hand-built engines.

For the cat:
If it's failing, there are a variety of ways to tell, including various CELs, dramatic power loss, glowing cat, heavy fuel smell in the exhaust, etc.. However, if it isn't actually failing, there is no way to tell how much life it has left. It could be a mile away from failure, or 80,000 miles from failure. Perhaps removing it and finding someone that knows how to test it? I've never heard of someone trying to determine this, but I imagine it's possible somehow.



Everything else is pretty common to all cars.

 

Add a "what do I ask about the RX-8" section to the end. Never put enough thought into it before.

Aged experts, correct me on anything that needs correcting, and add anything RX-8 specific that needs adding.

 

hey guys nice post i was wondering i got a 2004 rx8 and its got 101600miles on it and the water is mixing in the oil and was wondering what is the best way to go about 5000 to fix it can any one rebuild it

 

water in the oil is terminal for the engine. It will still run for a while, but down on power and it will just keep eating itself alive.

Your cheapest option is a remanufactured engine from Mazmart (forum vendor, ID of the same name if you want to PM him), around $3,500 all told, though varies depending on how much of the work you do yourself (removing, installing, shipping, etc...)

 

Hey guys I am getting ready to join the club

Let me ask the question first. What is the phone number that I can call with a VIN number to see if an engine has been replaced under warranty?

I am looking at a 2004, 100500 miles, and GT dark green. I will have the test drive tomorrow. The owner says that the engine was replaced 2000 miles ago, but I don't see that show up on the carfax. I see from the first page that it is something that can be found out by calling Mazda. What else can I find out with the VIN by calling them?

From what the owner said the only problem with the car is the coolant sensor, and I have read here that it is a common problem but not so serious. Is it a good deal at $9500?

Thanks!

 

Posting from my phone, so i cant easily search for it, but i did see the email address as well today. Look for a thread (or do a site google search) for 'rebuild for durability'. One of the posts has the email and i think phone number, and the list of stuff to request.

They can also validate trim, original options, packages, sell date, etc...