New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
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From: Austin
It requires some practice. The really low torque and long gearing of the RX-8 makes it not the easiest car to get going with. It becomes natural with time.
LOL...my woman hopes so ...she's complaining
There isn't a strict RPM point, the carbon is generally helped by high V/E in the engine, the higher the better, and our highest is at redline, although it's still high at 7k. You want to crest 8k at least periodically though, just to make sure that all the intake valves and secondary fuel injectors are exercised. They can get gummed up and stuck shut otherwise.
LOL...my woman hopes so ...she's complaining
There isn't a strict RPM point, the carbon is generally helped by high V/E in the engine, the higher the better, and our highest is at redline, although it's still high at 7k. You want to crest 8k at least periodically though, just to make sure that all the intake valves and secondary fuel injectors are exercised. They can get gummed up and stuck shut otherwise.
I did that to the M roadster I used to have and it worked.
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From: Austin
Ok more questions....if my engine dies am I covered under the 8/100 k Mazda extension even though I'm not the original buyer?
What is the best way to contact Mazda regarding this and other information(like if it's already had an engine replaced)?
Should I get a compression test from the dealer post purchase? In all honesty I ordered touch up paint a month ago and still haven't heard from them which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in their ability. My 8 was purchased from a local Ford dealer who says that they can do all the maintenance on it needed , but that seems unlikely for warranty work.
I'm wondering why this 8 has had 4 owners since 07 , but only 37750 miles on it(initially I thought this was a bonus to find a low mileage 8 , but the more I read here on the site , the more concerned that I am thinking in piston engine terms)....what's the best way to find out?
What is the best way to contact Mazda regarding this and other information(like if it's already had an engine replaced)?
Should I get a compression test from the dealer post purchase? In all honesty I ordered touch up paint a month ago and still haven't heard from them which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in their ability. My 8 was purchased from a local Ford dealer who says that they can do all the maintenance on it needed , but that seems unlikely for warranty work.
I'm wondering why this 8 has had 4 owners since 07 , but only 37750 miles on it(initially I thought this was a bonus to find a low mileage 8 , but the more I read here on the site , the more concerned that I am thinking in piston engine terms)....what's the best way to find out?
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
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It's a 2007...so its still covered under the 8/100k warranty.
Contact Mazda USA and give the VIN number of the car.
Yes, get a compression test done.
I don't know, but if you do, you will be the 5th owner...lol
Good luck!
Contact Mazda USA and give the VIN number of the car.
Yes, get a compression test done.
I don't know, but if you do, you will be the 5th owner...lol
Good luck!
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From: Austin
Thank you for the answers to my questions ...yeah I'm happily the 5th owner...LOL
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From: Austin
As far as bumping red line to help eradicate carbon build up....how often should this be done ?
Does the condition of your oil affect this procedure ...i.e. should it be done more often as oil is fresh and less often when it gets close to changing time?
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If by "bumping redline" you mean "hitting the beep prior to rev cut", then the condition of your oil doesn't really impact it.
There is no "set in stone" frequency, because you would be taking something that is a fun part of owning the car and trying to restrict it to a cold schedule. For example, some people say "once a day", some people say "every time you drive", etc... My commute for my last job was 13 miles one way. I would typically hit that redline beep 6-15 times EACH WAY. Yes, first and second gear DO count
(40mph and 63mph respectively)
It really isn't something to over-think. It's something to try to get people that are stuck in piston mentality to know that it is not only OK to go to redline, but it is healthy! Like the first time my best friend drove my 8, he shifted at ~3,000rpm, and I had to push him and egg him into actually going full throttle to redline before he actually understood what I was talking about. Just don't "baby" the revs. Baby the engine with fluids and ignition changes, but don't baby the revs. Let it rev and have fun doing it!
There is no "set in stone" frequency, because you would be taking something that is a fun part of owning the car and trying to restrict it to a cold schedule. For example, some people say "once a day", some people say "every time you drive", etc... My commute for my last job was 13 miles one way. I would typically hit that redline beep 6-15 times EACH WAY. Yes, first and second gear DO count
(40mph and 63mph respectively)It really isn't something to over-think. It's something to try to get people that are stuck in piston mentality to know that it is not only OK to go to redline, but it is healthy! Like the first time my best friend drove my 8, he shifted at ~3,000rpm, and I had to push him and egg him into actually going full throttle to redline before he actually understood what I was talking about. Just don't "baby" the revs. Baby the engine with fluids and ignition changes, but don't baby the revs. Let it rev and have fun doing it!
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Hope i'm ok asking this here, but will a cold air induction fail the emissions in Colorado. I don't think so but thought I would ask. I have a 2004 automatic 4 speed velocity red 8. I'll find out when I get there I know.
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@RIWWP:I take mine into the 7000 range at least 2 or 3 times each time I drive it. I rev it to over 4000 rpm and dump the ignition to scavange the combustion chamber. I have 78,000 on it and went through one omp to date that's it. Not bad id say.
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Stock, AEM, Racing Beat, or Mazdaspeed wont fail as long as it's installed properly. Anything else is a crap shoot. Weapon R and K&N being the most likely since they tend to cause CELs.
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From: Austin
If by "bumping redline" you mean "hitting the beep prior to rev cut", then the condition of your oil doesn't really impact it.
There is no "set in stone" frequency, because you would be taking something that is a fun part of owning the car and trying to restrict it to a cold schedule. For example, some people say "once a day", some people say "every time you drive", etc... My commute for my last job was 13 miles one way. I would typically hit that redline beep 6-15 times EACH WAY. Yes, first and second gear DO count (40mph and 63mph respectively)
It really isn't something to over-think. It's something to try to get people that are stuck in piston mentality to know that it is not only OK to go to redline, but it is healthy! Like the first time my best friend drove my 8, he shifted at ~3,000rpm, and I had to push him and egg him into actually going full throttle to redline before he actually understood what I was talking about. Just don't "baby" the revs. Baby the engine with fluids and ignition changes, but don't baby the revs. Let it rev and have fun doing it!
There is no "set in stone" frequency, because you would be taking something that is a fun part of owning the car and trying to restrict it to a cold schedule. For example, some people say "once a day", some people say "every time you drive", etc... My commute for my last job was 13 miles one way. I would typically hit that redline beep 6-15 times EACH WAY. Yes, first and second gear DO count
(40mph and 63mph respectively)It really isn't something to over-think. It's something to try to get people that are stuck in piston mentality to know that it is not only OK to go to redline, but it is healthy! Like the first time my best friend drove my 8, he shifted at ~3,000rpm, and I had to push him and egg him into actually going full throttle to redline before he actually understood what I was talking about. Just don't "baby" the revs. Baby the engine with fluids and ignition changes, but don't baby the revs. Let it rev and have fun doing it!
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@RIWWP:I made my own intake and I have run it for a few weeks...No cel. To give you a better picture of what I did was to rip the stock box out and cut off the tube part with the mass air flow sensor housed and used it in the air path way. I kept the 2 screens in the tube just like stock.
I notice that when I reach around 5,000 rpm the 8 takes off like a turbo just kicked in. Drive ability in this car is fantastic. Much more responsive to free way speeds. I fixed my street level air scoop flex tube to the end of the acorn filter .Works fine. I don't think I will fail emissions?, but if I do I will have to find a stock air box and install it for emissions and take it out as soon as it cools down at home. I will post the results of the emissions and get some pics of the engine bay as well. I am going for emissions this Friday( Have to change to fresh oil & filter before ) and hope to pass.
"You would think a motor with 3 moving parts would be less complicated"?.
I notice that when I reach around 5,000 rpm the 8 takes off like a turbo just kicked in. Drive ability in this car is fantastic. Much more responsive to free way speeds. I fixed my street level air scoop flex tube to the end of the acorn filter .Works fine. I don't think I will fail emissions?, but if I do I will have to find a stock air box and install it for emissions and take it out as soon as it cools down at home. I will post the results of the emissions and get some pics of the engine bay as well. I am going for emissions this Friday( Have to change to fresh oil & filter before ) and hope to pass.
"You would think a motor with 3 moving parts would be less complicated"?.
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You re-used the section with the MAF including the screens, and this is what most aftermarket intakes are missing. This results in unstable airflow and faulty MAF readings.
I only expect you would fail emissions if you have a CEL, which the crappy aftermarket intakes can tend to cause. The intake design pre-throttle body shouldn't change your tail-pipe sniffer results significantly enough to do a pass/fail. I don't know what regs you actually are supposed to meet.
I only expect you would fail emissions if you have a CEL, which the crappy aftermarket intakes can tend to cause. The intake design pre-throttle body shouldn't change your tail-pipe sniffer results significantly enough to do a pass/fail. I don't know what regs you actually are supposed to meet.
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From: Austin
Ok first oil change was done by the dealership I bought it from which is a Ford dealer I purchased it from...it appears that they used some synth blend and filled(or charged for) 6 qts...I had been putting 5w20 non synth as addition when it burned oil , should I continue with the synth or not? I assume it should b uniform ...also they used 5w30...should I go with that also given that Austin is a warm climate?
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According to the owner's manual you should use only convetional oil, not synthetic. So I would either swap it all out for conventional - or just keep adding conventional as it burns - the choice is yours. However, there is no issue with the two no mixing or anything like that.
5W30 is better than 5W20 - and many people on here can provide evidence that switching to a thicker oil (e.g. 5W30) lowers oil temperatures. Just bear in mind that it will take a little bit longer to warm up. But many others get away just fine with 5W20 - it really all depends on your local climate and how you intend to use the car (daily driver vs track car).
The "standard" RX8 oil change changes out 4.5-5 qts of oil - where as the entire system actually holds around 9 qts - something to keep in mind if you want to remove all the synthetic in order to completely switch over to dino oil or changing oil viscosity (which are additive so if 4.5 qts is 5W20 and 4.5 qts if 5W30 you can take the average for what the actual viscosity will be). If your set on replacing all of the oil with fresh stuff you can do 2 back to back oil changes - just let the car idle/properly warm up in between changes such that the system allows for complete mixing of the oil and new (even this method only nets you ~85% new oil).
5W30 is better than 5W20 - and many people on here can provide evidence that switching to a thicker oil (e.g. 5W30) lowers oil temperatures. Just bear in mind that it will take a little bit longer to warm up. But many others get away just fine with 5W20 - it really all depends on your local climate and how you intend to use the car (daily driver vs track car).
The "standard" RX8 oil change changes out 4.5-5 qts of oil - where as the entire system actually holds around 9 qts - something to keep in mind if you want to remove all the synthetic in order to completely switch over to dino oil or changing oil viscosity (which are additive so if 4.5 qts is 5W20 and 4.5 qts if 5W30 you can take the average for what the actual viscosity will be). If your set on replacing all of the oil with fresh stuff you can do 2 back to back oil changes - just let the car idle/properly warm up in between changes such that the system allows for complete mixing of the oil and new (even this method only nets you ~85% new oil).
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Poacherinthezoo, you are incorrect in regards to conventional vs synthetic. The owner's manual never says not to use synthetic.
Oil analysis results have shown conventional oil loses it's ability to maintain viscosity by around 2,500 miles, only HALF of the recommended change interval of 5,000 miles. Even at a change interval of 3,000 miles, what are you doing about the last 500 miles? Synthetics can retain their viscosity.
Recently typed up elsewhere:
Oil analysis results have shown conventional oil loses it's ability to maintain viscosity by around 2,500 miles, only HALF of the recommended change interval of 5,000 miles. Even at a change interval of 3,000 miles, what are you doing about the last 500 miles? Synthetics can retain their viscosity.
Recently typed up elsewhere:
Surprise!
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
Keep in mind one fact: Your stock oil system is trying to use 1 oil for 2 entirely different jobs:
1) Lubricate the e-shaft bearings (High pressure, high heat, high sheer environment)
2) Cool and lubricate the side seals (No pressure, incinerating heat, low sheer environment)
No, the viscosity of the oil that you inject into the housing to cool the side seals has no impact on how long the side seals or apex seals last. The fact that it is dirty 4-stroke is FAR FAR FAR more harmful to the seals than the viscosity or type.
If you want to help make your seals last longer, then convert to injecting only clean 2-stroke oil via a SOHN adapter. 2-stroke oils are designed to lubricate even as they are burned off. 4-stroke is not designed to be burned at all.
The type and viscosity of oil in your engine only really matters for the bearings on the e-shaft, with the sheering and stress that it sees. For that, our engines are closer to diesel engines in how abusive it is on the crankcase oil. Diesel oil actually does well, although if you use it with a cat in your exhaust it will kill your cat quite fast. Synthetics hold up better than non synthetics.
Synthetic Mobile 1 0w40 has consistently had the best oil analysis results from members here.
1) Lubricate the e-shaft bearings (High pressure, high heat, high sheer environment)
2) Cool and lubricate the side seals (No pressure, incinerating heat, low sheer environment)
No, the viscosity of the oil that you inject into the housing to cool the side seals has no impact on how long the side seals or apex seals last. The fact that it is dirty 4-stroke is FAR FAR FAR more harmful to the seals than the viscosity or type.
If you want to help make your seals last longer, then convert to injecting only clean 2-stroke oil via a SOHN adapter. 2-stroke oils are designed to lubricate even as they are burned off. 4-stroke is not designed to be burned at all.
The type and viscosity of oil in your engine only really matters for the bearings on the e-shaft, with the sheering and stress that it sees. For that, our engines are closer to diesel engines in how abusive it is on the crankcase oil. Diesel oil actually does well, although if you use it with a cat in your exhaust it will kill your cat quite fast. Synthetics hold up better than non synthetics.
Synthetic Mobile 1 0w40 has consistently had the best oil analysis results from members here.
Last edited by RIWWP; Apr 11, 2013 at 09:28 AM.
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My wording wasn't the best and I apologize for that; what I was referring to is as you stated "mazda does not recommends the use of synthetic oil" - not that it's strictly forbidden or will do serious and immediate harm to the engine.
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From: Austin
Yeah sorry ...I know from my reading that this is a hotly debated issue and since I'm used to using synth only in the BMW roadie I used to have(it held 7 quarts too) , I'm more inclined to keep using synth as it seems like there isn't a problem....I will likely dump it after 4500 miles so as to insure the oil still has viscosity. Thank you both for the help , and I will stick to 5w30
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RIWWP: Thanks for the ditty on the faulty sensor on the coolant recovery tank. It's the 2 wire plug sitting right next to the coolant recovery tank. I just unplugged it and left it looking like it was making contact so it won't come on during my emissions in Colorado.
I have no cell's and I did use the screens in the original part of the tube containing the mas air flow sensor. Those screens are there for a reason. I am after all that the 8 engine can give me but not by adding expensive add on's that don't as you pointed out in another post , don't offer much if any more power. If you really are an enthusiastic as I am( I treat my 8 like my Harley) you will spend time under your hood and in this forum where all and any knowledge is here. I am great ful for your input and your expertise on the 8.
I am after drive ability, I don't care if you can beat me stop light to stop light, I will take you in the S turns every time. Watched a u tube video yesterday where a BMW and a 8 were on a course and the BMW surged ahead and every turn the 8 was superior over the BMW in the S turns. It is about drive ability period in my book. Unadultrated fun!.
I have no cell's and I did use the screens in the original part of the tube containing the mas air flow sensor. Those screens are there for a reason. I am after all that the 8 engine can give me but not by adding expensive add on's that don't as you pointed out in another post , don't offer much if any more power. If you really are an enthusiastic as I am( I treat my 8 like my Harley) you will spend time under your hood and in this forum where all and any knowledge is here. I am great ful for your input and your expertise on the 8.
I am after drive ability, I don't care if you can beat me stop light to stop light, I will take you in the S turns every time. Watched a u tube video yesterday where a BMW and a 8 were on a course and the BMW surged ahead and every turn the 8 was superior over the BMW in the S turns. It is about drive ability period in my book. Unadultrated fun!
.
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Brand new owner.
Just checking as I have read through the newbie forum and such.
Just double checking some things.
So change coils,spark plugs,wires around every 30,000
oil change around every 3,000 miles.
also how often should i go in for a transmission service check? I'm taking it in a few days, checked car-facts and it has been 3 years since.
Also i have read that i should redlining in 2-3 times a month to keep the engine clean?
also any suggestions or tips i should know about? I really want to keep this car in great conditioned. any thing to help is greatly appreciated.
Just double checking some things.
So change coils,spark plugs,wires around every 30,000
oil change around every 3,000 miles.
also how often should i go in for a transmission service check? I'm taking it in a few days, checked car-facts and it has been 3 years since.
Also i have read that i should redlining in 2-3 times a month to keep the engine clean?
also any suggestions or tips i should know about? I really want to keep this car in great conditioned. any thing to help is greatly appreciated.
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Hi guys I have a 2004 Mazda rx8 touring turbocharged. The car was running fine and then all of the sudden I stop at a red light and then it wasn't idling right and when I'm driving if I put it in neutral it shuts off .help anyone idk what it is its getting annoying
Last edited by Kleo Boro; Apr 21, 2013 at 07:17 PM.
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Oh boy...turbocharged???
Anyway, what mileage is your rx8 now? When did the last time you replaced your coils, plugs, and wires (tune-up)? Check your catalytic converter too if its clogged up...
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Just checking as I have read through the newbie forum and such.
Just double checking some things.
So change coils,spark plugs,wires around every 30,000
oil change around every 3,000 miles.
also how often should i go in for a transmission service check? I'm taking it in a few days, checked car-facts and it has been 3 years since.
Also i have read that i should redlining in 2-3 times a month to keep the engine clean?
also any suggestions or tips i should know about? I really want to keep this car in great conditioned. any thing to help is greatly appreciated.
Just double checking some things.
So change coils,spark plugs,wires around every 30,000
oil change around every 3,000 miles.
also how often should i go in for a transmission service check? I'm taking it in a few days, checked car-facts and it has been 3 years since.
Also i have read that i should redlining in 2-3 times a month to keep the engine clean?
also any suggestions or tips i should know about? I really want to keep this car in great conditioned. any thing to help is greatly appreciated.
Trying to set a redline schedule for the frequency is trying to take one of the most enjoyable parts about owning an RX-8 and hiding it in your closet. We try to get people to redline it to let them know that it's OK, and it's even healthy. This isn't a piston engine.
At my last job, it was 26 miles round trip, and I'd regularly hit redline 6-15 times EACH WAY. Yes, 1st and 2nd gear count, and yes it's tremendously fun. An 8 that only gets redlined once or twice a month is an 8 that is grumbling at wondering why the owner isn't having fun with her.
- Turbo
- Manifold design
- fuel system changes
- ignition changes
- engine management solution
- who tuned it
- AFRs at idle/WOT/cruise
And you will probably get requests for pictures and for even further information.
You could literally have anything wrong from a bad installation to a blown engine to a bad tune to bad gas. Turbocharging an RX-8 is not done easily or lightly, and expect problems and multiple engines. If you bought it that way, you bought someone else's problems.
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Looking to Purchase
Hello, I am looking at picking up an 05 manual touring with 25k miles on it. I talked to both the seller and Mazda North America. Here's the info, would like to know what you guys think.
From a not so informed seller:
2nd owner, about an even split on the milage, current owner put on ~12k in the past 5 1/2 years (been in garage otherwise). Didn't have any info on recalls (see below). No flooding issues, except for when he had a dead/weak battery and had to jump it. Subsequently replaced battery. Still on original starter. Didn't notice oil consumption (he didn't realize it used oil), said he has only had to add 1/2 qt a couple times. Gets oil changed once a yr (~2.4k driven a yr avg from number he gave me). No other maintenance done except air filter change and two new rear tires (go figure).
From Mazda:
4206F recall was performed in oct 2006, with the PCM being flashed and plugs changed (still on original motor). MSP 13/16 performed in april 08 (no other info than that they were performed). 8yr warranty in effect till the end of this year.
Soooo..... when I go to test drive it (hopefully this weekend) I have lined up a compression test and inspection at a local mazda dealer. If compression comes out fine, I thinking I am in the clear to get it. When I get it I would change the oil/coolant and put on new plugs/wires/coils. Maybe decarb with seafoam if I am feeling adventuresome (would do before the plug change if so). Thoughts?
On the price: He is asking roughly the KBB value, $11,200. However that price is way above the edmunds TMV of $9,016. Obviously, the less I pay the better but I don't want to low ball him too much and not be able to make a deal....this is the closest/best one in a 3hr radius from where I live (SE Ohio). I know the market effects the price, but some input on what you guys think the car is worth would be helpful.
Thanks!
From a not so informed seller:
2nd owner, about an even split on the milage, current owner put on ~12k in the past 5 1/2 years (been in garage otherwise). Didn't have any info on recalls (see below). No flooding issues, except for when he had a dead/weak battery and had to jump it. Subsequently replaced battery. Still on original starter. Didn't notice oil consumption (he didn't realize it used oil), said he has only had to add 1/2 qt a couple times. Gets oil changed once a yr (~2.4k driven a yr avg from number he gave me). No other maintenance done except air filter change and two new rear tires (go figure).
From Mazda:
4206F recall was performed in oct 2006, with the PCM being flashed and plugs changed (still on original motor). MSP 13/16 performed in april 08 (no other info than that they were performed). 8yr warranty in effect till the end of this year.
Soooo..... when I go to test drive it (hopefully this weekend) I have lined up a compression test and inspection at a local mazda dealer. If compression comes out fine, I thinking I am in the clear to get it. When I get it I would change the oil/coolant and put on new plugs/wires/coils. Maybe decarb with seafoam if I am feeling adventuresome (would do before the plug change if so). Thoughts?
On the price: He is asking roughly the KBB value, $11,200. However that price is way above the edmunds TMV of $9,016. Obviously, the less I pay the better but I don't want to low ball him too much and not be able to make a deal....this is the closest/best one in a 3hr radius from where I live (SE Ohio). I know the market effects the price, but some input on what you guys think the car is worth would be helpful.
Thanks!
