New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
Thinking about buying this rx8
Hi I'm thinking about buying a used rx8. It's a 2006 has 50k miles on it....so still 50k and 2 years left on the warranty. I talked to the owner and he said the coil was replaced a few months ago. Also, the car doesn't burn any oil. In the FAQ's it mentions that this is a problem as the car must not be lubricating the motor enough if it's not burning about a quart every 1000 miles. Just wondering if this is a hard and fast rule. The owner claims he had the oil changed every 3000k miles at the Mazda dealer. Could it be that he just didn't notice it was burning oil? Thanks for the advice.
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If that car is injecting oil so slowly that it doesn't burn at least a quart over the 3,000 miles between dealerships (about a quart of burn off needed to trigger the low oil light) then it's far too little oil. 8's should be burning a quart every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. If his 8 is actually burning this much then he is causing critical damage to the bearings from lack of oil. If he is correct and his 8 isn't burning at all (or not fast enough for him to notice), then that engine is GOING to fail.
The oil is needed for the internal lubrication as well as side seal cooling. Proven time and time and time again that the engine will not survive without it.
If his engine compression is good, then the good news is that there is a DIY on the boards here about how to unclog the oil injection lines and oil injectors, which is likely why he isn't burning enough oil. Fix that and the engine's falling lifespan slows dramatically. There is still likely internal damage done however. Either excessive apex seal wear or warping of the side seal springs. Or both.
Glad you were reading and spotted that issue ahead of time
The oil is needed for the internal lubrication as well as side seal cooling. Proven time and time and time again that the engine will not survive without it.
If his engine compression is good, then the good news is that there is a DIY on the boards here about how to unclog the oil injection lines and oil injectors, which is likely why he isn't burning enough oil. Fix that and the engine's falling lifespan slows dramatically. There is still likely internal damage done however. Either excessive apex seal wear or warping of the side seal springs. Or both.
Glad you were reading and spotted that issue ahead of time
If that car is injecting oil so slowly that it doesn't burn at least a quart over the 3,000 miles between dealerships (about a quart of burn off needed to trigger the low oil light) then it's far too little oil. 8's should be burning a quart every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. If his 8 is actually burning this much then he is causing critical damage to the bearings from lack of oil. If he is correct and his 8 isn't burning at all (or not fast enough for him to notice), then that engine is GOING to fail.
The oil is needed for the internal lubrication as well as side seal cooling. Proven time and time and time again that the engine will not survive without it.
If his engine compression is good, then the good news is that there is a DIY on the boards here about how to unclog the oil injection lines and oil injectors, which is likely why he isn't burning enough oil. Fix that and the engine's falling lifespan slows dramatically. There is still likely internal damage done however. Either excessive apex seal wear or warping of the side seal springs. Or both.
Glad you were reading and spotted that issue ahead of time
The oil is needed for the internal lubrication as well as side seal cooling. Proven time and time and time again that the engine will not survive without it.
If his engine compression is good, then the good news is that there is a DIY on the boards here about how to unclog the oil injection lines and oil injectors, which is likely why he isn't burning enough oil. Fix that and the engine's falling lifespan slows dramatically. There is still likely internal damage done however. Either excessive apex seal wear or warping of the side seal springs. Or both.
Glad you were reading and spotted that issue ahead of time




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yeah, step away from that car. The engine isn't using any oil and is dying from it, or the owner is lying to you, in which case you should be worried anyway.
I feel like i should have paid a lot for this info, sat in a room somwhere twice a week for four hours at a time, and ended up with a little piece of paper telling me i learned something. Extremely valuable and thank you for taking the time to make this. Ive met a few people asking me about mine and curious about buying one and i will point them right to this thred from now on.
Also.. im going to have to make a stop at a local mazda dealership that i no longer take my car to and share this info with their 'experts'
Also.. im going to have to make a stop at a local mazda dealership that i no longer take my car to and share this info with their 'experts'
This thread is exactly what I needed! I just turned 20 and I've loved this car since my uncle got one of the first '04s. I currently drive an '03 explorer so gas mileage isn't really an issue. I average about 15mpg, but I do drive it hard so a daily redline won't be a problem. I plan on getting a used 04-06 sometime this year maybe. It's one of the only cars that I can hear so many "bad" things about but then as soon as I see one I could care less. I think it would be a great car for me to start taking to the track and get some pro lessons. Even after reading through this nearly 10x over, I still think it's the car for me.
This thread is great! thanks to the people answering question,so now for mine.
I'm not new to engines or working on my cars,this is my first Rotary though,after reading this thread talking with people and doing my research I finally bought an 04 gt.
I'm trying to find a pic with labels to what everything under my hood is,haha some of the stuff is very familiar then others are completely foreign ie:what is that giant solenoid looking thing next to my passenger strut?
so if anyone has a link or a thread I couldn't find please let me know,thanks!
I'm not new to engines or working on my cars,this is my first Rotary though,after reading this thread talking with people and doing my research I finally bought an 04 gt.
I'm trying to find a pic with labels to what everything under my hood is,haha some of the stuff is very familiar then others are completely foreign ie:what is that giant solenoid looking thing next to my passenger strut?
so if anyone has a link or a thread I couldn't find please let me know,thanks!
It turns on for a few seconds when the car is first started to help catalytic efficiency.
Just test drove the RX8 today, for the first time - a Series II. It was an AMAAAZINGGGGG car!!!!! In the city I could not tell that the vehicle was lacking in torque. The shifting was SOOO crisp and precise!! I felt like the vehicle really was not forgiving when it came to shifting, and it was MUCH sportier than any other manual "sports" cars I have driven - much more unforgiving than a Civic Si!! This vehicle is seriously AMAZING! I test drove the GT model today, and the seats were SUPER comfortable, and hugged me REALLY nicely! I have sat in the R3 seats, but it felt really squished around my hip; maybe a little bit too tight. Having said that, I still wish I have had the R3 model to test drive today! I want to experience how the Recaro seats feels like while driving - maybe it will be MUCH more comfortable than when I am just sitting in it.
In any case, I really want to purchase this vehicle, but this car is EXPENSIVE!! In addition, there aren't any more R3 models here in Toronto. I was only able to find GT models. All R3 models have been sold out...that is too bad! Seriously...!!!
What an amazing day with the RX8! I loved it!
Amazing car!!
In any case, I really want to purchase this vehicle, but this car is EXPENSIVE!! In addition, there aren't any more R3 models here in Toronto. I was only able to find GT models. All R3 models have been sold out...that is too bad! Seriously...!!!
What an amazing day with the RX8! I loved it!
Amazing car!!
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361 posts in 5 years and you are just now getting to test drive one? 
Just humorous. You aren't the only active poster that has never been an owner, or only recently got a first drive. I can think of 2 others at least.

Just humorous. You aren't the only active poster that has never been an owner, or only recently got a first drive. I can think of 2 others at least.
yeah, I know, it is pretty embarrassing...but it is only because I was too younger back then, and I am finally working full-time, and is starting to be more stable in my life, and is about to graduate out of university. So the next step is to start looking into a car.
Pretty dumb eh? haha!! but yeah! what an amazing car! I truly love it! =) However, I will not be able to start thinking about purchasing this car yet, because I am now thinking about getting married, so the cost of owning an RX8 is just too high. I do not see how owning this car will benefit me (and us).
Pretty dumb eh? haha!! but yeah! what an amazing car! I truly love it! =) However, I will not be able to start thinking about purchasing this car yet, because I am now thinking about getting married, so the cost of owning an RX8 is just too high. I do not see how owning this car will benefit me (and us).
she wants me to get the RX8 because she wants me to be happy (she knows how much I love cars and the RX8), but I told her that she will have to come first, so the RX8 will have to wait :P it's ok!! Maybe a new Rotary engine (with SkyActiv tech?! :O!!!!!) will come out by then?! :O hahaa :P
HAHAHA!! my wife is awesome! she will bring me more joy than anything else in this world! I can promise you that!
she wants me to get the RX8 because she wants me to be happy (she knows how much I love cars and the RX8), but I told her that she will have to come first, so the RX8 will have to wait :P it's ok!! Maybe a new Rotary engine (with SkyActiv tech?! :O!!!!!) will come out by then?! :O hahaa :P
she wants me to get the RX8 because she wants me to be happy (she knows how much I love cars and the RX8), but I told her that she will have to come first, so the RX8 will have to wait :P it's ok!! Maybe a new Rotary engine (with SkyActiv tech?! :O!!!!!) will come out by then?! :O hahaa :PIt's always nice in the beginning....
j/k. I agree though, for as much as I like cars, I still put people at the first place.
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What is your minimum mileage annually? We will round up from there a chunk, because people end up finding excuses to go driving with an RX-8. My annual minimum has been about 7,000 miles, but I've still averaged nearly 22,000
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22,000 miles per year
@ 17mpg = 1,294 gallons
@ $4.00 per gallon = $5,176 in gas
Ignition: (technically 30,000 average, but 3/4 years you will hit it)
4 coils @ $29.59 per coil = $118.36 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
4 plug wires @ $24.79 per set = $24.79 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 leading plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 trailing plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
Total = $223.15 + shipping (options without shipping costs, no shipping deals, and/or discounts and other vendors can adjust this price within about 20% up and down)
Oil
Changes @ 3,000 miles = 7 changes
Quarts per change = 4 (may vary depending on your extraction method, and likely automatic vs manual due to the oil cooler difference)
Quarts for changes = 28
Oil burn-off rate @ 1 quart per 1,000 miles = 22 quarts
Total quarts = 50
Dino base oil @ $5 per quart = $250
Synthetic base oil @ $9 per quart = $450
Bare minimum total: $473, assuming you have all the tools and do the work yourself.
Additional recommended maintenance items:
- oil line cleaning is $8 can of seafoam
- a seafoaming of the engine is another $8
- possible seafoam for a tank of gas to help clean fuel injectors $8
- radiator flush $40 to $80 in coolant / water wetter / distilled water, depending on your environment and preferred mix
- Manual transmission fluid change $40 for Redline MT90 (no idea on Automatic transmission flush)
- Tires @ $140 to $230 per tire = $560 to $920 in just tires, plus mounting, balancing, etc... depending on if you get those for free (tires likely, depends on how you drive and what tires you go with, but you can expect once a year with 22,000 annually)
- Lubricate accessible joints, such as doors, steering shaft u-joints, etc...
- Clean power steering connector (or solid wire with no connector to ignore ever after)
If you need tools, you can do nearly all of this with basic metric socket set and wrench, plus $15 coil tester, $3 spark plug socket, $5 oil drain pan (or $40-$100 oil extractor, like a PelaPump), $15 for jack stands.
If you pay a dealer for all of this, aim for more like $2,500 to $3,000 annually. Yes, I'm serious.
@ 17mpg = 1,294 gallons
@ $4.00 per gallon = $5,176 in gas
Ignition: (technically 30,000 average, but 3/4 years you will hit it)
4 coils @ $29.59 per coil = $118.36 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
4 plug wires @ $24.79 per set = $24.79 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 leading plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 trailing plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
Total = $223.15 + shipping (options without shipping costs, no shipping deals, and/or discounts and other vendors can adjust this price within about 20% up and down)
Oil
Changes @ 3,000 miles = 7 changes
Quarts per change = 4 (may vary depending on your extraction method, and likely automatic vs manual due to the oil cooler difference)
Quarts for changes = 28
Oil burn-off rate @ 1 quart per 1,000 miles = 22 quarts
Total quarts = 50
Dino base oil @ $5 per quart = $250
Synthetic base oil @ $9 per quart = $450
Bare minimum total: $473, assuming you have all the tools and do the work yourself.
Additional recommended maintenance items:
- oil line cleaning is $8 can of seafoam
- a seafoaming of the engine is another $8
- possible seafoam for a tank of gas to help clean fuel injectors $8
- radiator flush $40 to $80 in coolant / water wetter / distilled water, depending on your environment and preferred mix
- Manual transmission fluid change $40 for Redline MT90 (no idea on Automatic transmission flush)
- Tires @ $140 to $230 per tire = $560 to $920 in just tires, plus mounting, balancing, etc... depending on if you get those for free (tires likely, depends on how you drive and what tires you go with, but you can expect once a year with 22,000 annually)
- Lubricate accessible joints, such as doors, steering shaft u-joints, etc...
- Clean power steering connector (or solid wire with no connector to ignore ever after)
If you need tools, you can do nearly all of this with basic metric socket set and wrench, plus $15 coil tester, $3 spark plug socket, $5 oil drain pan (or $40-$100 oil extractor, like a PelaPump), $15 for jack stands.
If you pay a dealer for all of this, aim for more like $2,500 to $3,000 annually. Yes, I'm serious.
22,000 miles per year
@ 17mpg = 1,294 gallons
@ $4.00 per gallon = $5,176 in gas
Ignition: (technically 30,000 average, but 3/4 years you will hit it)
4 coils @ $29.59 per coil = $118.36 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
4 plug wires @ $24.79 per set = $24.79 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 leading plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 trailing plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
Total = $223.15 + shipping (options without shipping costs, no shipping deals, and/or discounts and other vendors can adjust this price within about 20% up and down)
Oil
Changes @ 3,000 miles = 7 changes
Quarts per change = 4 (may vary depending on your extraction method, and likely automatic vs manual due to the oil cooler difference)
Quarts for changes = 28
Oil burn-off rate @ 1 quart per 1,000 miles = 22 quarts
Total quarts = 50
Dino base oil @ $5 per quart = $250
Synthetic base oil @ $9 per quart = $450
Bare minimum total: $473, assuming you have all the tools and do the work yourself.
Additional recommended maintenance items:
- oil line cleaning is $8 can of seafoam
- a seafoaming of the engine is another $8
- possible seafoam for a tank of gas to help clean fuel injectors $8
- radiator flush $40 to $80 in coolant / water wetter / distilled water, depending on your environment and preferred mix
- Manual transmission fluid change $40 for Redline MT90 (no idea on Automatic transmission flush)
- Tires @ $140 to $230 per tire = $560 to $920 in just tires, plus mounting, balancing, etc... depending on if you get those for free (tires likely, depends on how you drive and what tires you go with, but you can expect once a year with 22,000 annually)
- Lubricate accessible joints, such as doors, steering shaft u-joints, etc...
- Clean power steering connector (or solid wire with no connector to ignore ever after)
If you need tools, you can do nearly all of this with basic metric socket set and wrench, plus $15 coil tester, $3 spark plug socket, $5 oil drain pan (or $40-$100 oil extractor, like a PelaPump), $15 for jack stands.
If you pay a dealer for all of this, aim for more like $2,500 to $3,000 annually. Yes, I'm serious.
@ 17mpg = 1,294 gallons
@ $4.00 per gallon = $5,176 in gas
Ignition: (technically 30,000 average, but 3/4 years you will hit it)
4 coils @ $29.59 per coil = $118.36 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
4 plug wires @ $24.79 per set = $24.79 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 leading plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
2 trailing plugs @ $20.09 per plug = $40.18 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...RPTUNEAMS_____)
Total = $223.15 + shipping (options without shipping costs, no shipping deals, and/or discounts and other vendors can adjust this price within about 20% up and down)
Oil
Changes @ 3,000 miles = 7 changes
Quarts per change = 4 (may vary depending on your extraction method, and likely automatic vs manual due to the oil cooler difference)
Quarts for changes = 28
Oil burn-off rate @ 1 quart per 1,000 miles = 22 quarts
Total quarts = 50
Dino base oil @ $5 per quart = $250
Synthetic base oil @ $9 per quart = $450
Bare minimum total: $473, assuming you have all the tools and do the work yourself.
Additional recommended maintenance items:
- oil line cleaning is $8 can of seafoam
- a seafoaming of the engine is another $8
- possible seafoam for a tank of gas to help clean fuel injectors $8
- radiator flush $40 to $80 in coolant / water wetter / distilled water, depending on your environment and preferred mix
- Manual transmission fluid change $40 for Redline MT90 (no idea on Automatic transmission flush)
- Tires @ $140 to $230 per tire = $560 to $920 in just tires, plus mounting, balancing, etc... depending on if you get those for free (tires likely, depends on how you drive and what tires you go with, but you can expect once a year with 22,000 annually)
- Lubricate accessible joints, such as doors, steering shaft u-joints, etc...
- Clean power steering connector (or solid wire with no connector to ignore ever after)
If you need tools, you can do nearly all of this with basic metric socket set and wrench, plus $15 coil tester, $3 spark plug socket, $5 oil drain pan (or $40-$100 oil extractor, like a PelaPump), $15 for jack stands.
If you pay a dealer for all of this, aim for more like $2,500 to $3,000 annually. Yes, I'm serious.



