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The 20 doesn't matter, it doesn't get that cold in TN. Idemitsu is not even Jaso FC rated and it's overpriced. But it's fine I guess because it's proven.
Word. I'll have to look into something different then. I think it was like $10 for a quart, a little pricy but didn't seem overly so.
FC/FD rating should only matter if you're burning the oil. FC has to do with ash content, and FD is just FC with a lot more detergent, apparently. But yeah, I suppose Idemitsu has earned a reputation.
FWIW, I also run LiquiMoly 10W40, but it never sees the oil injectors. I don't know why Sohn adaptors aren't more commonly used, they simplify the oil choice a lot.
Unless California has a different hourly rate, it should be 150ish. There is a Mazda shop procedure for this that states the time required, it's really not a "charge what you like" type deal.
I'll have to see if I can find that I'm writing somewhere. The guy said 300ish, and I'd need to leave the car for a day. I didn't think it took that long.
Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
The Lucas oil to use is their semi-synthetic 2 cycle oil. It is FD certified, low ash, high detergent premix.
Synthetic oil is fine for our engines. Mazda even sells it labeled for our cars outside the US.
Awesome, I found it on Amazon. It's at least $10 cheaper than the Saber Pro gallon.
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
That may have been an old post and from back when I used metallic cats. I have been using ceramic cats for a few years now with only two units being allowed warranty coverage (even though they were both used on the racetrack, so their warranties were voided), but any cat will have issues when supporting weak ignition coils.
It was from last year. However, it was one person that said it and had no proof to show anything. User error I'd suspect lol.
I mean. Sure. They burn richer than a ************. 20 weight sounds pretty damn high. I run Idemetsu, which works well and the car's been responding better since I've been running it.
I've been looking into the Idemitsu oil lately. I think that's the route I'll be taking. It doesn't get cold here in Central California, so I'm thinking 20w50 should be fine.
I have been using Lucas semi-synthetic two stroke FD-grade premix in my S2 at 0.25 oz./gal. I even use it in my STIHL machine for lawn work. Clean as a whistle the STIHL plugs are. I run 5W20 SN grade motor oil in my engine due to the warranty but change often ~ 1000-1500 miles.
^ I use the Lucas 2 cycle oil in my lawn equipment too. It is amazingly clean compared to other options. And, at the end of the season, I just empty the gas can into my 8's gas tank to get rid of my unused premixed gas.
In my 8, I use a concentration of 1/2 oz per gallon for street driving and 1 oz per gallon on the track.
If you change your own oil, consider using 5W30 SN. It will shear down some, and Mazda will never be able to prove it didn't start out as 5W20. Actually, my dealer will use 5W30 if I ask them to, and Mazda won't go against dealer service for warranty work.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-17-2016 at 07:36 PM.
The 20 doesn't matter, it doesn't get that cold in TN. Idemitsu is not even Jaso FC rated and it's overpriced. But it's fine I guess because it's proven.
Actually...
The farther apart the lower and upper viscosity ratings, the more viscosity index improvers are being relied upon to create and maintain the upper number. Those improver molecules are the first to break down, which is the majority of the cause of initial shear. That means, if you want a more stable oil that is most resistent to shear, you want those numbers to be close together.
The upshot is, you want to use the highest low and high viscosity rated oil you can get away with in your climate, and even vary your oil weights between summer and winter if necessary.
Having said all that, I just use Mobil 1 0W40, because it is everywhere, the UOA reports on it look good, and I'm lazy.
My dealer (in New Jersey) use 5W-30W Castrol in all their rotary oil changes. I also use the Lucas premix now. Used to use the Pettit Racing Pro-Tek which was fine, but far too expensive. The Lucas has gotten a good rep here.
So if you're selecting an oil for your car, you want to be talking about oil groups and certifications, and looking at a Group V oil with ashless burn, high stability and ability to resorb own varnishes and deposits. The downside is it's expensive, so a Group IV blend of PAO and ester base stocks, like Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Liquimoly Synthoil are good alternatives. Avoid race oils unless you're racing and changing your oil every day.
So would you say that the Idemsitsu wouldn't be ideal for a daily?
Welcone to all the new guys. I am new here as well. I just picked up an 04 rx8 yesterday. There is alot of good reading in this thread and i have been learning alot from alot of forums. i look forward to all the support i will get from you guys when i tear her open and give her a whole new chance of life. Thanks for all the future help
This is the new baby in my life i paid a whopping 300 bucks for her
That oil is fine. I run Mobil 1 0W40 in Texas. Heavier is probably better in hotter climates. What is much more important than the type or weight of oil is how often you change it. Do it every 3K miles, and you will be OK in that regard.
Could I use the 0w40 without the SOHN adapter?
Last edited by ShiftyRX3584; 01-19-2017 at 01:29 AM.
Ok cool, so I guess I'll use that. Then when I get around to the BHR midpipe, I might try out that Rotella T6 stuff. I'll have to start paying attention to which is more available and easy to get to.
10-18-2016, 05:46 PM
