beritek3

I own 2 Miatas with high miles and work on cars. I am intrigued by some of the well written posts and by the technical challenge that the RX8 presents.

1. It seems that getting an Series 1 2004 to 2008 car would be less costly but entail more engine risk.
2. Sounds like the Series 2 2009 to latest is a better designed engine? Higher oil pressure? etc I read you can't put new series engine in 2004 to 2008 car.
3. I work on my own cars (I could drop tranny and engine if need be) - could an ok mechanic rebuild a Renisis I if I were to buy a good bodied car that maybe had compression issue develop? Is any machining required or just seal changing?
4. Where do you buy new or reconditioned RX8 engines?
5. I am in no hurry but am intrigued - could get one as a winter or 2 winter project.

Enjoying the forum

Junkman 6394226

1. Meh. Get a compression test, if it's good, then you can KEEP it good. I went in blind at 114K, still ticking at 130K a year and a half later.
2. Series II are by design more reliable because of more oil injectors and higher oil pressure (effectiveness "debatable"), but the ECU's and other tidbits are drastically different, so no swapping between Series I.
3. Yes and no. It's pretty straightforward, you don't need to machine if you just buy new hard parts (Irons, housings). Otherwise you can do it, but you results may vary. Most people recommend a professional shop do it for you, since the prices would be near the same anyways. Also, the price of an engine core just skyrocketed a week ago or so.
4. Mazmart for stock engines, Rotary Resurrection for stock rebuilds, or others for upgraded motors (porting, ceramic seals, oil pressure mods, etc. I think Mazmart does those as well).
5. Just find a car that runs good, compression test it (at a Mazda dealer!), then change all the fluids and other wearable things out when you get it. Should run like a champ.

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

How do you claim to keep the compression good? I'd be surprised if that's the original engine in your car just throwing that out there.

beritek3

I have been studying this topic and this site all afternoon. On Craigslist I have already found two 2014s with hard start issues. I get impression that this must very common. Wonder what a fairly clean 2004 is worth with an engine that barely starts and for sure needs total overhaul.

2000? 3000? 1500?

Wonder what Mean Time to Failure Is for these engines - in miles driven?

Junkman 6394226

Raise the OMP rates and premix the f**k out of it (Ok, maybe maybe not THE f**k, but quite a bit more than a few ounces per tank). As long as you don't let it build up, it helps a lot with sealing. Some would call it a band-aid, some call it overkill, I call it maintaining or exceeding required lubrication at all times under all conditions.

Yes, it's the original engine, just passed 130,160 miles today. Still hauls ***, still gets 25+ mpg hwy, still idles between 24-30% load at 8 g/sec or less.

Surprised?

They made RX-8's in 2014?

Hard start in '04s & '05s can *usually* be attributed to weak starter motors (well documented), or the fact that many people tend to neglect or abuse their ignition (flooding, fouling), because they simply don't know better; or don't know that these high-performance, low-dollar (relative to the past) ignition parts don't last as long as they'd like (30K miles is the generally drawn blurry line).

You should never pay more than $4,000 for a non-running RX-8, even mint/stock. Average is around $2,500 to $3,000ish for a good condition, but barely running car. Goes up or down depending on the problems or condition of the car, and the seller's experience/knowledge of such things. And whether or not they hate the car lol... IMHO.

The mean failure time is a wide table of best guesses, depending on what you've heard and from whom.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Warm start problems typically indicate a compression problem. In 2005, Mazda started to spec a different starter motor that would spin faster. This was to get the apex seals to seat tighter in hopes that it would correct the warm start issue. When a 2004 car was brought in to the dealership with a warm start issue, the started was replaced before an a engine replacement was authorized. When a original 2004 engine is in good working order, the original starter will work fine.

beritek3

Here is my update.

Bought a loose 2004 MT engine - coolant was the issue.
Cast iron housings are ok. Rotor housings are sent off for inspection and I think ok. Rotors are good. Rebuild kit is in mail. Main bearings are being replaced. Apex seats were intact - not broken. Going to get a better condition used shaft.

If I ever get access to other topics like Sale Section I am going to state that I am in no hurry but in good time looking for a 04 to 08 MT car with near dead or dead engine.

So far having lots of fun.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Your join date is 09-28-2013, which is more than 30 days ago, and your post count is above 10, so you can create threads in the classifieds section (or anywhere else on the site)