I do the case, lasts me about a year.

 

I had already ordered just 4 quarts idk why -.-, and i wonder what the shipping cost will be lmao.
Also i suppose im going to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a week before every oil change?

 

Quick question- got the call from Mazda, car will be ready tomorrow! But as we all know they try to BS you. I do indeed have code p0411-secondary air injection. They tried to get me to buy a whole pump and stuff -800$ after install. I said no, because from my understanding is it not that important at the moment?

 

If you have a cat, you want the air pump working. If you don't have a cat, the air pump is worthless.

 

Okay, i do have a cat. And i do hear the pump come on for 30-45 seconds on cold starts so i know its working, but they said its kinda faulty. I usually thought a p0410 was the sign of a new pump? Because prior i did have that vacuum leak which could be tripping the code, but im not sure. If the pump is completely done(which it wasnt before), how long till i should get a new one?

 

P0410 is triggered from the front O2 sensor. Basically the ECU is expecting to see a specific AFR signal when the air pump is working (because of the excess amount of air it will show leaner than the engine is actually running at), and if it sees more air than needed to hit that AFR, then it will throw P0410.

Note MORE air, not less. So it basically thinks that the air pump is pumping too much air into the exhaust, which isn't nearly as much of a problem as no air. And yes, I think a vacuum leak could produce that effect, since the engine is using more air than the MAF sees, and under fueling, leading to a leaner AFR. I'd ignore the code until you validate that you no longer have a vacuum leak, and that your engine is broken in fine. Then address the code if it is still popping up.

 

Okay, thanks for the quick helpful reply, really appreciate it a lot! Ill go ahead and get a smoke test within a week and go from there. Will def order the pump off mazmart rather then dealership though if i need it lol those prices are crazy.

 

Hmm, "more current", not "more air", I just re-read it. I think that does translate to a leaner AFR signal, but I'm not 100% sure. Still, same recommendation.

 

Thanks for finding that, interesting.

 

Doing the "gradual increase RPM method" on breaking in the Reman. Im only about 150 Miles on it and do I get tempted to hit that 9k RPM sometimes lol

 

Rev it out, break in procedures are a waste of time.

 

I personally especially with this type of engine.. Suggest hard break in, Of course let it warm up to operating before doing a hard break in... High rps over 7k. And id suggest making sure everything is lubbedd

 

I disagree with hard break in folks. The gradual break in gives all the internal engine parts time to gradually come to a better fit, seals etc. Always did a gradual break in (as Mazda recommends) with all seven of my rotaries. They all lasted over 100,000 with never a rotary failure and good compression test numbers when sold. (easily have clocked over a million rotary miles and still counting, on street and track) . Even my fellow Mazda amateur RX racers and Mazda's Championship RX7 and RX8 race teams do a gradual break in for their engines.

Yes I had to resist the temptation to go hard right away. But I figured I would rather have an engine that lasted than have that extra early fun. Mazda doesn't recommend gradual break in just to hamper your fun, they also want your internal engine parts to fit and seal properly and get the best compression, and last a long time. Most new rotary engines would test down on compression until the internal parts and seals have been properly broken in.

Don't be shortsighted and foolish and pay on the other end with a shorter healthy life for your engine . 41 years of experience driving these rotaries has taught me many lessons, this is one of them.