New 40th Anniversary RX-8 Owner
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
New 40th Anniversary RX-8 Owner
EDIT: Re-typed OP.
Hello guys, I'm a new owner of a gorgeous 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX-8! I'm located in the CFL area (Orlando) and would love to meet other 8 owners as a means to meet new people and learn more about the car. My 8 has ~63k miles on it and has an AEM CAI upgrade. I'm not too sue what other modifications were done to the car so I'll have to continue doing some research. I'd appreciate any help in that category, if possible.
Some things I plan on doing to the car are visual upgrades for a full aero bodykit + mazdaspeed spoiler or lip spoiler. Things I'm planning on doing are buying new weathertech floor mats (car came with none, but the dealership threw in 2 front seat mats from a random car) and I'm getting a compression test first thing tomorrow morning. From what I remember from the sale, I have an extended warranty on the engine for 100k miles.
Even though I've only had the car for a few weeks, I'm very very proud to own it and be seen driving in it. Even something as little as giving the car more oil, the other day, felt rewarding to me.
Here are some pics of the car. First set of pictures were taken when I initially made this thread, second set are some taken per request earlier today.
Hello guys, I'm a new owner of a gorgeous 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX-8! I'm located in the CFL area (Orlando) and would love to meet other 8 owners as a means to meet new people and learn more about the car. My 8 has ~63k miles on it and has an AEM CAI upgrade. I'm not too sue what other modifications were done to the car so I'll have to continue doing some research. I'd appreciate any help in that category, if possible.
Some things I plan on doing to the car are visual upgrades for a full aero bodykit + mazdaspeed spoiler or lip spoiler. Things I'm planning on doing are buying new weathertech floor mats (car came with none, but the dealership threw in 2 front seat mats from a random car) and I'm getting a compression test first thing tomorrow morning. From what I remember from the sale, I have an extended warranty on the engine for 100k miles.
Even though I've only had the car for a few weeks, I'm very very proud to own it and be seen driving in it. Even something as little as giving the car more oil, the other day, felt rewarding to me.
Here are some pics of the car. First set of pictures were taken when I initially made this thread, second set are some taken per request earlier today.
Last edited by TheBlackHombre; May 6, 2016 at 10:57 PM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Welcome TheBlackHombre ! Where are you located? I bought my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX-8 new in May 2008. I added the Mazdaspeed CAI, which is the same as an AEM CAI. Just keep up with the maintenance (use our RX8 Club schedule, not Mazda's).
Depending on what month in 2008, or whenever it was first sold, you might still be under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty and clutch pedal extended warranty. Find out when it was first sold and if you still have the warranty, quickly get the engine a rotary-specific compression test, and have the clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. If the engine passes the rotary-specific compression test, fine, if not you may still be eligible for a rebuilt motor from Mazda.
I will attach the RX8 club maintenance sked, and compression test chart. Cheers !!
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
Depending on what month in 2008, or whenever it was first sold, you might still be under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty and clutch pedal extended warranty. Find out when it was first sold and if you still have the warranty, quickly get the engine a rotary-specific compression test, and have the clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. If the engine passes the rotary-specific compression test, fine, if not you may still be eligible for a rebuilt motor from Mazda.
I will attach the RX8 club maintenance sked, and compression test chart. Cheers !!
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
Last edited by gwilliams6; Apr 30, 2016 at 11:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Welcome TheBlackHombre ! Where are you located? I bought my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX-8 new in May 2008. I added the Mazdaspeed CAI, which is the same as an AEM CAI. Just keep up with the maintenance (use our RX8 Club schedule, not Mazda's).
Depending on what month in 2008, or whenever it was first sold, you might still be under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty and clutch pedal extended warranty. Find out when it was first sold and if you still have the warranty, quickly get the engine a rotary-specific compression test, and have the clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. If the engine passes the rotary-specific compression test, fine, if not you may still be eligible for a rebuilt motor from Mazda.
Depending on what month in 2008, or whenever it was first sold, you might still be under the 8yr/100,000 mile engine warranty and clutch pedal extended warranty. Find out when it was first sold and if you still have the warranty, quickly get the engine a rotary-specific compression test, and have the clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. If the engine passes the rotary-specific compression test, fine, if not you may still be eligible for a rebuilt motor from Mazda.
I believe I'm under the 100k mile engine warranty still but not too sure about the clutch pedal extended warranty. I'll have to check. I didn't know that the compression test was covered under warranty, I thought that would have been out-of-pocket from me. My only dilemna is that I bought the car from a Honda dealership, not a Mazda dealership - so I'm not sure if Honda has the right compression test for the job or if I'm allowed to go to a Mazda dealership? Thanks for the tips and the helpful resources, I need to get started on that list asap. I've been driving my car for 2 weeks already and I don't want any future problems.
The car is a blast to drive and I plan to give it some modifications as time goes on. Primarily external: I'd love for it to look like this with the spoiler + side skirt/body kit
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
The clutch pedal assembly warranty is the same length as the engine warranty, 8yrs/100,000 miles from date of first sale of the car.
That clutch pedal assembly and the engine warranty are 8yr/100,000 mile Whichever comes first
So your car if first sold in 2008, would be coming upon or past eight years, so find out the date it was first sold. Some 40th Anniversary editions sat at dealerships until sold in 2009, so those ones would have Mazda warranty until 2017.
The rotary-specific compression test is NOT covered under warranty. You will have to pay a Mazda dealer or rotary shop (with the proper rotary engine compression testing gear) to do the test. Regular piston-engine compression testing equipment won't do an adequate job.
However if after a rotary-specific compression test,your engine tests as failing (low compression numbers) and Mazda approves an engine replacement, then Mazda would cover the costs of your compression test that revealed your failing engine.
It is worth the cost to have it done. We here at the RX8 club recommend all potential RX8 buyers do this test BEFORE their purchase. Too many people are paying their hard-earned dollars for used RX8s with dead or dying engines. A rotary-specific compression test costs will vary from dealer to dealer and can be from $100 to $300, depending on dealer. .BUT that is far cheaper than rebuilding or replacing your failing rotary engine, which can cost thousands of dollars !
Having your compression test by a Mazda dealer won't void any used car warranty you have from the Honda dealer that sold you the car. And only a Mazda dealer and Mazda USA can certify any failed engine for a replacement under what remains of your Mazda warranty. It is possible you have some used car warranty from that Honda dealership that might cover any failed engine, but be sure that any such warranty would cover rotary engines and their parts, and is not written up just to cover piston engines. (that has happened to some other used RX8 owners, who bought their used cars from piston engine car dealers, with piston engine used car warranties)
Read the new owners thread I sent you. It has tons of useful and important info about your car, engine, troubleshooting and modifications.
On my 40th Anniversary Edition, I added the Mazdaspeed CAI (again the same item as the AEM Cai, and one of just a few CAI that adds a few hp. Most other CAI actually rob some HP from your Renesis engine. The stock airbox is pretty good to start with). I also switched to the BHR ignition systems (coils, wires) and new plugs. The BHR is an upgrade from stock, and built to last the lifetime of your car, whereas the stock coils and wires can be shot by 20,000 miles. This is all in the new owners thread.
I also added the Racing Beat radiator screen and oil cooler screens to protect them from stone damage. These screens also would not void any warranty. My car came loaded with the rear spoiler, side skirts, mud flaps, front spoiler and spare tire kit from Mazda.
There are lots of discussions here about various topics, including pre-mixing. I believe in pre-mixing and have used it on all seven rotaries I have owned since 1973.
There are regional RX8 club groups here. Just check the regional forums menu and look for Florida groups. I am sure you have a local group that covers your area and can steer you to local events and RX8 owner get-togethers you would enjoy.
Cheers and welcome. You are in the right place for loads of RX8 knowledge and fun !
That clutch pedal assembly and the engine warranty are 8yr/100,000 mile Whichever comes first
So your car if first sold in 2008, would be coming upon or past eight years, so find out the date it was first sold. Some 40th Anniversary editions sat at dealerships until sold in 2009, so those ones would have Mazda warranty until 2017.
The rotary-specific compression test is NOT covered under warranty. You will have to pay a Mazda dealer or rotary shop (with the proper rotary engine compression testing gear) to do the test. Regular piston-engine compression testing equipment won't do an adequate job.
However if after a rotary-specific compression test,your engine tests as failing (low compression numbers) and Mazda approves an engine replacement, then Mazda would cover the costs of your compression test that revealed your failing engine.
It is worth the cost to have it done. We here at the RX8 club recommend all potential RX8 buyers do this test BEFORE their purchase. Too many people are paying their hard-earned dollars for used RX8s with dead or dying engines. A rotary-specific compression test costs will vary from dealer to dealer and can be from $100 to $300, depending on dealer. .BUT that is far cheaper than rebuilding or replacing your failing rotary engine, which can cost thousands of dollars !
Having your compression test by a Mazda dealer won't void any used car warranty you have from the Honda dealer that sold you the car. And only a Mazda dealer and Mazda USA can certify any failed engine for a replacement under what remains of your Mazda warranty. It is possible you have some used car warranty from that Honda dealership that might cover any failed engine, but be sure that any such warranty would cover rotary engines and their parts, and is not written up just to cover piston engines. (that has happened to some other used RX8 owners, who bought their used cars from piston engine car dealers, with piston engine used car warranties)
Read the new owners thread I sent you. It has tons of useful and important info about your car, engine, troubleshooting and modifications.
On my 40th Anniversary Edition, I added the Mazdaspeed CAI (again the same item as the AEM Cai, and one of just a few CAI that adds a few hp. Most other CAI actually rob some HP from your Renesis engine. The stock airbox is pretty good to start with). I also switched to the BHR ignition systems (coils, wires) and new plugs. The BHR is an upgrade from stock, and built to last the lifetime of your car, whereas the stock coils and wires can be shot by 20,000 miles. This is all in the new owners thread.
I also added the Racing Beat radiator screen and oil cooler screens to protect them from stone damage. These screens also would not void any warranty. My car came loaded with the rear spoiler, side skirts, mud flaps, front spoiler and spare tire kit from Mazda.
There are lots of discussions here about various topics, including pre-mixing. I believe in pre-mixing and have used it on all seven rotaries I have owned since 1973.
There are regional RX8 club groups here. Just check the regional forums menu and look for Florida groups. I am sure you have a local group that covers your area and can steer you to local events and RX8 owner get-togethers you would enjoy.
Cheers and welcome. You are in the right place for loads of RX8 knowledge and fun !
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 2, 2016 at 08:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
The clutch pedal assembly warranty is the same length as the engine warranty, 8yrs/100,000 miles from date of first sale of the car.
That clutch pedal assembly and the engine warranty are 8yr/100,000 mile Whichever comes first
So your car if first sold in 2008, would be coming upon or past eight years, so find out the date it was first sold. Some 40th Anniversary editions sat at dealerships until sold in 2009, so those ones would have Mazda warranty until 2017.
The rotary-specific compression test is NOT covered under warranty. You will have to pay a Mazda dealer or rotary shop (with the proper rotary engine compression testing gear) to do the test. Regular piston-engine compression testing equipment won't do an adequate job.
However if after a rotary-specific compression test,your engine tests as failing (low compression numbers) and Mazda approves an engine replacement, then Mazda would cover the costs of your compression test that revealed your failing engine.
It is worth the cost to have it done. We here at the RX8 club recommend all potential RX8 buyers do this test BEFORE their purchase. Too many people are paying their hard-earned dollars for used RX8s with dead or dying engines. A rotary-specific compression test costs will vary from dealer to dealer and can be from $100 to $300, depending on dealer. .BUT that is far cheaper than rebuilding or replacing your failing rotary engine, which can cost thousands of dollars !
Having your compression test by a Mazda dealer won't void any used car warranty you have from the Honda dealer that sold you the car. And only a Mazda dealer and Mazda USA can certify any failed engine for a replacement under what remains of your Mazda warranty. It is possible you have some used car warranty from that Honda dealership that might cover any failed engine, but be sure that any such warranty would cover rotary engines and their parts, and is not written up just to cover piston engines. (that has happened to some other used RX8 owners, who bought their used cars from piston engine car dealers, with piston engine used car warranties)
Read the new owners thread I sent you. It has tons of useful and important info about your car, engine, troubleshooting and modifications.
On my 40th Anniversary Edition, I added the Mazdaspeed CAI (again the same item as the AEM Cai, and one of just a few CAI that adds a few hp. Most other CAI actually rob some HP from your Renesis engine. The stock airbox is pretty good to start with). I also switched to the BHR ignition systems (coils, wires) and new plugs. The BHR is an upgrade from stock, and built to last the lifetime of your car, whereas the stock coils and wires can be shot by 20,000 miles. This is all in the new owners thread.
I also added the Racing Beat radiator screen and oil cooler screens to protect them from stone damage. These screens also would not void any warranty. My car came loaded with the rear spoiler, side skirts, mud flaps, front spoiler and spare tire kit from Mazda.
There are lots of discussions here about various topics, including pre-mixing. I believe in pre-mixing and have used it on all seven rotaries I have owned since 1973.
There are regional RX8 club groups here. Just check the regional forums menu and look for Florida groups. I am sure you have a local group that covers your area and can steer you to local events and RX8 owner get-togethers you would enjoy.
Cheers and welcome. You are in the right place for loads of RX8 knowledge and fun !
That clutch pedal assembly and the engine warranty are 8yr/100,000 mile Whichever comes first
So your car if first sold in 2008, would be coming upon or past eight years, so find out the date it was first sold. Some 40th Anniversary editions sat at dealerships until sold in 2009, so those ones would have Mazda warranty until 2017.
The rotary-specific compression test is NOT covered under warranty. You will have to pay a Mazda dealer or rotary shop (with the proper rotary engine compression testing gear) to do the test. Regular piston-engine compression testing equipment won't do an adequate job.
However if after a rotary-specific compression test,your engine tests as failing (low compression numbers) and Mazda approves an engine replacement, then Mazda would cover the costs of your compression test that revealed your failing engine.
It is worth the cost to have it done. We here at the RX8 club recommend all potential RX8 buyers do this test BEFORE their purchase. Too many people are paying their hard-earned dollars for used RX8s with dead or dying engines. A rotary-specific compression test costs will vary from dealer to dealer and can be from $100 to $300, depending on dealer. .BUT that is far cheaper than rebuilding or replacing your failing rotary engine, which can cost thousands of dollars !
Having your compression test by a Mazda dealer won't void any used car warranty you have from the Honda dealer that sold you the car. And only a Mazda dealer and Mazda USA can certify any failed engine for a replacement under what remains of your Mazda warranty. It is possible you have some used car warranty from that Honda dealership that might cover any failed engine, but be sure that any such warranty would cover rotary engines and their parts, and is not written up just to cover piston engines. (that has happened to some other used RX8 owners, who bought their used cars from piston engine car dealers, with piston engine used car warranties)
Read the new owners thread I sent you. It has tons of useful and important info about your car, engine, troubleshooting and modifications.
On my 40th Anniversary Edition, I added the Mazdaspeed CAI (again the same item as the AEM Cai, and one of just a few CAI that adds a few hp. Most other CAI actually rob some HP from your Renesis engine. The stock airbox is pretty good to start with). I also switched to the BHR ignition systems (coils, wires) and new plugs. The BHR is an upgrade from stock, and built to last the lifetime of your car, whereas the stock coils and wires can be shot by 20,000 miles. This is all in the new owners thread.
I also added the Racing Beat radiator screen and oil cooler screens to protect them from stone damage. These screens also would not void any warranty. My car came loaded with the rear spoiler, side skirts, mud flaps, front spoiler and spare tire kit from Mazda.
There are lots of discussions here about various topics, including pre-mixing. I believe in pre-mixing and have used it on all seven rotaries I have owned since 1973.
There are regional RX8 club groups here. Just check the regional forums menu and look for Florida groups. I am sure you have a local group that covers your area and can steer you to local events and RX8 owner get-togethers you would enjoy.
Cheers and welcome. You are in the right place for loads of RX8 knowledge and fun !
I have been reading the new owners thread as well as the other stickies on and off for a few weeks now.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Thank you for all the good information but I actually have been reading through most of the stickies in the new owners forum already
I'm getting my car compression tested tomorrow, and I plan on following the maintenance schedule as well. My only concerns with replacing things (if it's not stock) is warranty issues. I'm curious to know if there's anything else I'm not aware of that was modded on the car before.
And of course, here's some pics - I can always snap some more.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
EDIT: Retyped OP and embedded pictures of car!
I'm getting my car compression tested tomorrow, and I plan on following the maintenance schedule as well. My only concerns with replacing things (if it's not stock) is warranty issues. I'm curious to know if there's anything else I'm not aware of that was modded on the car before.
And of course, here's some pics - I can always snap some more.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
EDIT: Retyped OP and embedded pictures of car!
Last edited by TheBlackHombre; May 6, 2016 at 10:58 PM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Pics look great. It is a shame that they didn't keep the nice special silver painted engine cover that comes with each 40th Anniversary Edition. It still fits, even with the AEM/Mazdaspeed CAI. Again your AEM CAI will never void any warranty, it is the same exact CAI as the Mazdaspeed CAI which was sold by Mazda and fully warrantied.
Upgrading coils to a kit such as BHR was ok'd by my Mazda dealer as warranty safe. If you are nervous about it though, just be sure to get the latest Mazda "C" coils as a replacement. They are better and last longer than your original coils. And don't forget to always change plugs and wires too when changing coils. Ignition health is one very critical key to rotary engine health and longevity , and you don't want any weak links in the ignition system. A weak ignition can even lead to rotary engine failure .
The Racing Beat screens I got to cover my ac and oil coolers, were also warranty ok'd by my Mazda dealer. They don't measurably restrict any airflow, but protect against stone damage, which will happen in the long run if the ac condenser and oil coolers are left unprotected. Under most warranties, road stone damage to these items would not be covered.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Coolin...screenset.html
If you go through the maintenance items and all is ok, you will be in good shape. That engine compression test is key, first. Whatever the results, we are here to help you make the most of your RX8 ownership. Cheers !
Here are two photos showing that specially silver painted engine cover for the 40th Anniversary Edition. First photo is my car showing engine cover and my AEM/Mazdaspeed CAI. Second photo is the engine cover with stock Mazda air intake.
Upgrading coils to a kit such as BHR was ok'd by my Mazda dealer as warranty safe. If you are nervous about it though, just be sure to get the latest Mazda "C" coils as a replacement. They are better and last longer than your original coils. And don't forget to always change plugs and wires too when changing coils. Ignition health is one very critical key to rotary engine health and longevity , and you don't want any weak links in the ignition system. A weak ignition can even lead to rotary engine failure .
The Racing Beat screens I got to cover my ac and oil coolers, were also warranty ok'd by my Mazda dealer. They don't measurably restrict any airflow, but protect against stone damage, which will happen in the long run if the ac condenser and oil coolers are left unprotected. Under most warranties, road stone damage to these items would not be covered.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Coolin...screenset.html
If you go through the maintenance items and all is ok, you will be in good shape. That engine compression test is key, first. Whatever the results, we are here to help you make the most of your RX8 ownership. Cheers !
Here are two photos showing that specially silver painted engine cover for the 40th Anniversary Edition. First photo is my car showing engine cover and my AEM/Mazdaspeed CAI. Second photo is the engine cover with stock Mazda air intake.
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 7, 2016 at 09:33 AM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
BTW , I am assuming you have some kind of used car warranty from the Honda dealer that sold you the car. What does this warranty cover? Does it also cover your engine, and for how long ? If anything else was modded on the car ,it makes sense that it would be covered by your used car warranty, as it was sold to you in its present configuration.
Don't forget to get that clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. That was covered under the 8yr/100,000 miles Mazda warranty, but may or may NOT be covered under your used car warranty. If it does break outside of any warranty coverage, there are good strengthened replacement clutch pedal assemblies sold by reputable RX8 club vendors.
Don't forget to get that clutch pedal assembly checked for any weakness. That was covered under the 8yr/100,000 miles Mazda warranty, but may or may NOT be covered under your used car warranty. If it does break outside of any warranty coverage, there are good strengthened replacement clutch pedal assemblies sold by reputable RX8 club vendors.
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 7, 2016 at 09:23 AM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Update, just had my Mazda dealer do a rotary compression test with 64,000 miles on my engine and the Mazda warranty ending on May 18 (8 years since first sold new to me). Engine showed low enough compression that Mazda is giving me a replacement (rebuilt) engine under warranty . Should be here this next week and installed shortly thereafter. Car ran great, no running or starting issues, but it tested low compression anyway, so don't let how it feels fool you. That compression test is key. Best to you and your car.
BTW this is my first rotary engine to be failing with low compression. It happens more frequently with Renesis engines than previous 13b rotary engines in previous Mazda RX models. It is the nature of the Renesis beast, even with excellent maintenance and care.
I plan on keeping this car running for many more years of fun driving, so I will keep up with anything it needs. It is due for new brakes soon, and new tires soon also. But I don't feel too bad, I got 64,000 miles out of the original brakes, not bad. And my Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires gave me over 45,000 miles of sure-footed fun in all kinds of weather. There is a new and even better Continental DWS-06 out now, and that is what I will get. (a top-rated ultra-high performance all-season radial as tested and rated by Tire Rack).
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Contact+DWS+06
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/survey...jsp?type=UHPAS
BTW this is my first rotary engine to be failing with low compression. It happens more frequently with Renesis engines than previous 13b rotary engines in previous Mazda RX models. It is the nature of the Renesis beast, even with excellent maintenance and care.
I plan on keeping this car running for many more years of fun driving, so I will keep up with anything it needs. It is due for new brakes soon, and new tires soon also. But I don't feel too bad, I got 64,000 miles out of the original brakes, not bad. And my Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires gave me over 45,000 miles of sure-footed fun in all kinds of weather. There is a new and even better Continental DWS-06 out now, and that is what I will get. (a top-rated ultra-high performance all-season radial as tested and rated by Tire Rack).
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Contact+DWS+06
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/survey...jsp?type=UHPAS
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 7, 2016 at 09:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
I was unable to get the compression test yesterday because the Mazda dealership was full for Saturday. I had to make an appointment for next Saturday due to my work schedule.
I ended up visiting my family who lives about an hour away and everything has been fine with the car except that during the drive home, my low coolant light had been coming on and off. The next morning, I go to turn on my car and immediately the CEL is on. I checked the coolant level and it appears to be fine, but it looks like it could be replaced (it isn't bright green). I took the car to a local autozone to get the CEL checked and these are the codes that they gave me:
Sigh, I hope my car is fine. Time to research what the hell is going on and hopefully I'd be able to drive back to Orlando.
EDIT 1: So far it appears to be related to the gas cap. Apparently it wasn't tightened fully and/or needs to be replaced. Still researching to see if there's the possibility of anything else.
EDIT 2: I'm pretty sure it's the gas cap. I don't think I tightened the gas cap past 3 clicks when I last filled up, my gas cap has some brownish color to the white ring on the inside of the gas cap, and my tank is slightly below 1/4 which all would contribute to the CEL that's popping up from what I've been researching. I'm going to fill up on my way home tonight as well as really tighten the gas cap so hopefully things should be good for the drive.
I ended up visiting my family who lives about an hour away and everything has been fine with the car except that during the drive home, my low coolant light had been coming on and off. The next morning, I go to turn on my car and immediately the CEL is on. I checked the coolant level and it appears to be fine, but it looks like it could be replaced (it isn't bright green). I took the car to a local autozone to get the CEL checked and these are the codes that they gave me:
Inspect for loose fuel cap and tighten or replace as necessary
Definition:
Code P0455 indicates that the Evaporative Emission System had a gross leak or no flow for a predetermined period of time.
Error Codes Read
P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
P0302 Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder No. 2
P0456 Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Leak - Small Leak
Definition:
Code P0455 indicates that the Evaporative Emission System had a gross leak or no flow for a predetermined period of time.
Error Codes Read
P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
P0455 EVAP System Large Leak Detected
P0302 Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder No. 2
P0456 Evaporative Emission System (EVAP) Leak - Small Leak
EDIT 1: So far it appears to be related to the gas cap. Apparently it wasn't tightened fully and/or needs to be replaced. Still researching to see if there's the possibility of anything else.
EDIT 2: I'm pretty sure it's the gas cap. I don't think I tightened the gas cap past 3 clicks when I last filled up, my gas cap has some brownish color to the white ring on the inside of the gas cap, and my tank is slightly below 1/4 which all would contribute to the CEL that's popping up from what I've been researching. I'm going to fill up on my way home tonight as well as really tighten the gas cap so hopefully things should be good for the drive.
Last edited by TheBlackHombre; May 8, 2016 at 07:33 PM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
First the coolant bottle sensor is a known failure on these cars. You can just check the level visually until you replace the sensor. Unfortunately the sensor is NOT sold separately , you must buy the coolant overflow bottle and the sensor together. Mazmart is a good source for that.
http://shop.mazmart.com/en/rx8-coolant-bottle
Just be sure to be careful if you are doing the replacement, as the nipple on the radiator end of the coolant line attached to the bottle, can break and that means a new radiator. If replacing this hose section yourself, best to carefully with a knife slice the hose, then peel off the hose from the nipple and then replace.
Again if you are studious and just keep checking the coolant fluid level you can attend to other items first. The coolant warning light may come off and on as the sensor goes bad, it happens to many RX8. It happened to me around 50,000 miles and I eventually replaced the bottle and sensor.
A couple of other things: try not to drive your car down below 1/4 tank of gas. At this low tank level your fuel pump is uncovered (the fuel in the tank surrounding the submerged pump, acts to help cool the pump during operation) . At low tank levels the pump can tend to overheat in any high load/high heat situations. example: sustained highway speed driving, especially in hot weather, which puts high heat/high load on pump. These Series 1 RX8 fuel pumps (years '04-'08) are prone to overheat and shut down (at low fuel tank levels) as they wear. I personally had this problem and finally put in the improved Series 2 (years '09-11) fuel pump. There is an extensive thread on the forum about fuel pump failure and several solutions.
Your cel that was a misfire can perhaps be attributed to a weak part in your ignition system, such as a bad coil, bad wire, bad spark plug or any combination of these. How many miles on your ignition items. If 30,000miles or more on these parts, it is time to replace for sure.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/
look at this thread if that misfire cel persists
BTW one of the best ways to search for any subject on this forum is through google; just type in like this "fuel pump failures/rx8 club" and google will lead you to links for which thread you need. this sometimes works better than the club's search engine !
http://shop.mazmart.com/en/rx8-coolant-bottle
Just be sure to be careful if you are doing the replacement, as the nipple on the radiator end of the coolant line attached to the bottle, can break and that means a new radiator. If replacing this hose section yourself, best to carefully with a knife slice the hose, then peel off the hose from the nipple and then replace.
Again if you are studious and just keep checking the coolant fluid level you can attend to other items first. The coolant warning light may come off and on as the sensor goes bad, it happens to many RX8. It happened to me around 50,000 miles and I eventually replaced the bottle and sensor.
A couple of other things: try not to drive your car down below 1/4 tank of gas. At this low tank level your fuel pump is uncovered (the fuel in the tank surrounding the submerged pump, acts to help cool the pump during operation) . At low tank levels the pump can tend to overheat in any high load/high heat situations. example: sustained highway speed driving, especially in hot weather, which puts high heat/high load on pump. These Series 1 RX8 fuel pumps (years '04-'08) are prone to overheat and shut down (at low fuel tank levels) as they wear. I personally had this problem and finally put in the improved Series 2 (years '09-11) fuel pump. There is an extensive thread on the forum about fuel pump failure and several solutions.
Your cel that was a misfire can perhaps be attributed to a weak part in your ignition system, such as a bad coil, bad wire, bad spark plug or any combination of these. How many miles on your ignition items. If 30,000miles or more on these parts, it is time to replace for sure.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222280/
look at this thread if that misfire cel persists
BTW one of the best ways to search for any subject on this forum is through google; just type in like this "fuel pump failures/rx8 club" and google will lead you to links for which thread you need. this sometimes works better than the club's search engine !
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 9, 2016 at 08:28 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
I need to buy a obd2 Bluetooth adapter so I can diagnose my car quickly in the future. However, I'm happy to report that the cel was caused by the gas cap. I tightened with many clicks and the cel went away, however later tonight after a hard drive - I got a flashing cel which means a misfire which would make sense given my previous misfire Code popping up. I'm going to see if I'm able to fix the problem before I take it into the dealership this Saturday.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Gwilliams6 I want to thank you for helping me out so much even without me asking, I've been doing my fair share of research about the car regarding any issues that have been popping up, but you really helped me out tremendously.
I'm still currently at the Mazda dealership and have bad news. My compression test showed that my engine does have low compression and I'd need a new engine. The fix was quite expensive (nearly the cost of the car itself) so I'm gonna get on the phone with Honda once I'm home and see what I can do regarding this. I don't know what the procedure on this is either, so any clarification would be more than helpful.
I'm not too sure on how I should feel, I feel disappointed that I need a new engine but I love this car. I'd love for everything to keep moving forward smoothy. :/
I'm still currently at the Mazda dealership and have bad news. My compression test showed that my engine does have low compression and I'd need a new engine. The fix was quite expensive (nearly the cost of the car itself) so I'm gonna get on the phone with Honda once I'm home and see what I can do regarding this. I don't know what the procedure on this is either, so any clarification would be more than helpful.
I'm not too sure on how I should feel, I feel disappointed that I need a new engine but I love this car. I'd love for everything to keep moving forward smoothy. :/
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Edit: Found out the original purchase date of the car was Feb 2008 which means my 8 year warranty ran out 3 months ago, or 2 months before I bought the car. Time to call Honda and see what I can do.
Last edited by TheBlackHombre; May 14, 2016 at 11:04 AM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Looks like your Honda dealer's powertrain warranty should cover the replacement of your engine. You may have to do some shopping for them to see the price comparisons for a rebuilt engine from Mazda through your local dealer vs a rebuilt from other recommended experienced rotary rebuilders in Florida>
https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...ebuild-249375/
Thread on rebuilding options in Florida ,including one in the Orlando area.
Some recommended Florida Rotary Engine rebuilders: You are lucky , you have two of the best in your home state!
Pettit Racing : Pettit Racing
RotaryWerks: rotarywerks
https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...ebuild-249375/
Thread on rebuilding options in Florida ,including one in the Orlando area.
Some recommended Florida Rotary Engine rebuilders: You are lucky , you have two of the best in your home state!
Pettit Racing : Pettit Racing
RotaryWerks: rotarywerks
Last edited by gwilliams6; May 15, 2016 at 10:45 AM.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Since i just made it under my warranty (by two weeks!) I am letting my trusted dealer get my rebuilt from Mazda under the warranty. If in the future I will need another engine for this car, I would probably have Pettit Racing in Florida, or JPR Imports in Blackwood, NJ do my rebuild. I trust and have used them both at various times for my seven rotaries I have owned, and they have decades of experience and expertise.
I plan on keeping this RX8 for as long as I can. I love the car and it can live virtually forever with the right care.
I plan on keeping this RX8 for as long as I can. I love the car and it can live virtually forever with the right care.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Quote From a post by RIWWP (RX8club Moderator) back in 2011.
A) It is VERY rare that an engine is beyond rebuild. Typically the only engines that are so destroyed as to not be worth rebuilding are ones that are detonated under high load forced induction.
B) Most "new" engines are actually re-manufactured engines, which is to say "rebuilt" engines.
C) Since rotary engines only have 3 moving parts, 5 larger stationary bit (housings/end plates) and a number of seals, rebuilding an engine usually requires replacing all of the seals and at least 1 housing or end plate, often more. Until you tear it down, you can't predict it. Rebuilds with just new seals are entirely possible, but your engine really hasn't been returned to normal still, as even really slow compression losses typically wear down something else around them at the point the compression is being lost through, and this will only get progressively worse.
Low compression is usually caused by lubrication failures. Either A) heat destroys the viscosity of the oil, and the oil loses it's ability to lubricate, B) carbon buildup starts unseating and wearing on the seals since it isn't smooth surface, or C) side seals overheat too much from too little oil injection to cool them and the springs deform until the seals break.
Thread where this post came from:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...cement-222678/
A) It is VERY rare that an engine is beyond rebuild. Typically the only engines that are so destroyed as to not be worth rebuilding are ones that are detonated under high load forced induction.
B) Most "new" engines are actually re-manufactured engines, which is to say "rebuilt" engines.
C) Since rotary engines only have 3 moving parts, 5 larger stationary bit (housings/end plates) and a number of seals, rebuilding an engine usually requires replacing all of the seals and at least 1 housing or end plate, often more. Until you tear it down, you can't predict it. Rebuilds with just new seals are entirely possible, but your engine really hasn't been returned to normal still, as even really slow compression losses typically wear down something else around them at the point the compression is being lost through, and this will only get progressively worse.
Low compression is usually caused by lubrication failures. Either A) heat destroys the viscosity of the oil, and the oil loses it's ability to lubricate, B) carbon buildup starts unseating and wearing on the seals since it isn't smooth surface, or C) side seals overheat too much from too little oil injection to cool them and the springs deform until the seals break.
Thread where this post came from:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...cement-222678/
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 190
From: Massachusetts
Don't feel bad about the RX-8 fuel pump location - many other cars (Ford in particular) and Honda's Gold Wing and ST1100 models had high fuel pump elevation in the fuel tanks. GW is right - it is best to refuel at 1/4 tank left for no other reason but for saving the engine and extending the life of the fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Just a bit of an update on the car:
Car has been at the dealer for more than a month. I replaced the expansion tank (one with a new sensor) for the radiator, replaced my engine mounts, and am getting a new engine put in next week. When the car is out, I want to do a bhr ignition system upgrade. I'm excited to finally get my car back since I have severely missed driving it. Outside of general maintenance on the car, I eventually plan to to put a racing beat exhaust on it and get a Mazda maniac Cobb tune when I can afford it.
Car has been at the dealer for more than a month. I replaced the expansion tank (one with a new sensor) for the radiator, replaced my engine mounts, and am getting a new engine put in next week. When the car is out, I want to do a bhr ignition system upgrade. I'm excited to finally get my car back since I have severely missed driving it. Outside of general maintenance on the car, I eventually plan to to put a racing beat exhaust on it and get a Mazda maniac Cobb tune when I can afford it.
40th anniversary Edition
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 142
From: Grapevine, Texas
Thanks for the update. Keep us informed, ok, so we can help anyway we can. Cheers ! BTW you are actually getting a rebuilt (reman) engine with some new parts, depending on what it needed. There are no more new Renesis engines around. Mazda and all other rebuilders take used engine cores and replace any irons and internal parts and seals with new parts to bring it back up to like-new condition (if done well).
I have 2000 miles now on my Mazda reman (remanufactured) engine. It does feel stronger than my original at lower rpms ( a sign of better compression). I guess I had just gotten used to the original engine. Be sure to follow proper break-in of your reman engine. Break-in procedure advice does vary a lot.
Per Racing Beat's instructions:
- For the first 1000 miles do not accelerate under full throttle.
- During the first 1000 miles do not exceed 4000 RPM.
- For miles 1000-2000, expand the RPM upwards - but do not accelerate at full throttle.
- Over 2000 miles, full throttle and high RPM is acceptable.
Make sure you change your oil at 2000 miles
https://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Blueto...KS5TNRRS4NJEZW
I got this same obd2 bluetooth reader for $10.00 (the same one is sold under many brand names for as little as $10,00, so look around) This is a good price here though, with free shipping from Amazon .
This reader is compact enough (important) that it wont compromise or interfere with any leg room while plugged in under your dash (on the driver's side). You can just leave it plugged in all the time, even if you are not using it for readings. I got the Torque app for my android cellphone and it links up with this reader by bluetooth to give codes and live readings from your car. There are also other apps out there that work as well. The Torque Lite app is free. I chose to get the fuller Torque Pro app for $5. It works great. The only downside is the Torque app, when turned on and running, tends to use a fair amount of my Samsung Galaxy 5 cellphone's battery power. So for long trips I keep the phone plugged in to its car charger when I use the Torque app fulltime to monitor and give me continuous readings of the car's functions.
I have 2000 miles now on my Mazda reman (remanufactured) engine. It does feel stronger than my original at lower rpms ( a sign of better compression). I guess I had just gotten used to the original engine. Be sure to follow proper break-in of your reman engine. Break-in procedure advice does vary a lot.
Per Racing Beat's instructions:
- For the first 1000 miles do not accelerate under full throttle.
- During the first 1000 miles do not exceed 4000 RPM.
- For miles 1000-2000, expand the RPM upwards - but do not accelerate at full throttle.
- Over 2000 miles, full throttle and high RPM is acceptable.
Make sure you change your oil at 2000 miles
https://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Blueto...KS5TNRRS4NJEZW
I got this same obd2 bluetooth reader for $10.00 (the same one is sold under many brand names for as little as $10,00, so look around) This is a good price here though, with free shipping from Amazon .
This reader is compact enough (important) that it wont compromise or interfere with any leg room while plugged in under your dash (on the driver's side). You can just leave it plugged in all the time, even if you are not using it for readings. I got the Torque app for my android cellphone and it links up with this reader by bluetooth to give codes and live readings from your car. There are also other apps out there that work as well. The Torque Lite app is free. I chose to get the fuller Torque Pro app for $5. It works great. The only downside is the Torque app, when turned on and running, tends to use a fair amount of my Samsung Galaxy 5 cellphone's battery power. So for long trips I keep the phone plugged in to its car charger when I use the Torque app fulltime to monitor and give me continuous readings of the car's functions.
Last edited by gwilliams6; Aug 20, 2016 at 01:30 PM.
Registered
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,319
Likes: 58
From: NYC
Just a bit of an update on the car:
Car has been at the dealer for more than a month. I replaced the expansion tank (one with a new sensor) for the radiator, replaced my engine mounts, and am getting a new engine put in next week. When the car is out, I want to do a bhr ignition system upgrade. I'm excited to finally get my car back since I have severely missed driving it. Outside of general maintenance on the car, I eventually plan to to put a racing beat exhaust on it and get a Mazda maniac Cobb tune when I can afford it.
Car has been at the dealer for more than a month. I replaced the expansion tank (one with a new sensor) for the radiator, replaced my engine mounts, and am getting a new engine put in next week. When the car is out, I want to do a bhr ignition system upgrade. I'm excited to finally get my car back since I have severely missed driving it. Outside of general maintenance on the car, I eventually plan to to put a racing beat exhaust on it and get a Mazda maniac Cobb tune when I can afford it.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Update:
I got the car back finally. I was able to drive the car for about a week after the engine was rebuilt but had to give the car back to the dealership for 2 weeks because they promised to fix/correct the paint and dents the car had and received while it was gone. I got the car recently as of last week again.
I know for a fact this car was driven for about 200 miles before I got it without much care to it. The car had to be transported between Mazda to my Honda dealership (where I bought the car) and it's about an hour drive. In addition to that, my father picked up the car for me (since I live 1.5 hours away from the dealership and couldn't get there during business hours because of work) and he did about a 2-3 hour total drive time for his commutes in the 2 days he had the car. I gave him instructions but he told me he coasted in 4-5 RPM the entire way.
I've been following a proper break in procedure but now that I'm at a higher milage on the car, I notice the car grinds HARD between 3rd and 4th if I'm at a higher RPM (4.5-5K and up). Upon my research, people are saying I may have to rebuild my transmission or change my transmission fluid (which I plan on doing because the car is past 60k miles and due for it). I'm going to change the fluid on my next pay check and I hope this solves the issue because I really don't want to send the car back again. It's been sitting at the dealership for nearly 3 months, which is much longer than I've actually drove the car for.
I bought the OBD2 dongle gwillams6 wrote about as well as the torque pro app, and it's awesome. Get a lot of great info from it, and I even enter custom PID's I found through searching such the cat temp.
Overall, I've been really disappointed with the car for the simple fact that I've had so many problems with the car. And now that I'm finally out of the clear with a new engine, I may have to potentially replace my transmission. If that's the case, I don't even see the point of dropping more money into this car (like exhaust, upgraded ignition system, bluetooth and aux radio upgrade). I'm really hoping all ends up well with this car but if it doesn't, I'm very close to trading this car in and getting something else. I've been really hopeful and optimistic about this car, I personally fell in love with it; but we'll see.
Thanks for all the support and great information guys. It really means a lot to me since I've done a lot of research on the car myself - and you guys helped me even more so by providing tons of great info for me without me asking (and without bashing me too).
I got the car back finally. I was able to drive the car for about a week after the engine was rebuilt but had to give the car back to the dealership for 2 weeks because they promised to fix/correct the paint and dents the car had and received while it was gone. I got the car recently as of last week again.
I know for a fact this car was driven for about 200 miles before I got it without much care to it. The car had to be transported between Mazda to my Honda dealership (where I bought the car) and it's about an hour drive. In addition to that, my father picked up the car for me (since I live 1.5 hours away from the dealership and couldn't get there during business hours because of work) and he did about a 2-3 hour total drive time for his commutes in the 2 days he had the car. I gave him instructions but he told me he coasted in 4-5 RPM the entire way.
I've been following a proper break in procedure but now that I'm at a higher milage on the car, I notice the car grinds HARD between 3rd and 4th if I'm at a higher RPM (4.5-5K and up). Upon my research, people are saying I may have to rebuild my transmission or change my transmission fluid (which I plan on doing because the car is past 60k miles and due for it). I'm going to change the fluid on my next pay check and I hope this solves the issue because I really don't want to send the car back again. It's been sitting at the dealership for nearly 3 months, which is much longer than I've actually drove the car for.
I bought the OBD2 dongle gwillams6 wrote about as well as the torque pro app, and it's awesome. Get a lot of great info from it, and I even enter custom PID's I found through searching such the cat temp.
Overall, I've been really disappointed with the car for the simple fact that I've had so many problems with the car. And now that I'm finally out of the clear with a new engine, I may have to potentially replace my transmission. If that's the case, I don't even see the point of dropping more money into this car (like exhaust, upgraded ignition system, bluetooth and aux radio upgrade). I'm really hoping all ends up well with this car but if it doesn't, I'm very close to trading this car in and getting something else. I've been really hopeful and optimistic about this car, I personally fell in love with it; but we'll see.
Thanks for all the support and great information guys. It really means a lot to me since I've done a lot of research on the car myself - and you guys helped me even more so by providing tons of great info for me without me asking (and without bashing me too).