Lowering Fan on Temperature
 

I am looking at installing a Mazmart 170 deg stat. I have read about the options to program the ECU for the fan temperatures, but that does not seem like a great options. I also read the rx8performance.com had a kit that could be installed to modify the fan temps.

What are the options to automatically turn the fans on a and off at specific temperatures without reprograming the ECU?

Cobb is the best option!

Without an ECU reprogram the easiest is the RX8Performance fan control kit. You could also wire in an aftermarket fan controller with its own thermostat...but why bother ..the other option is a lot cheaper and easier

Before my cobb, I just changed them to come on low all the time. It worked great. If you can solder, you can do it. Or, if you can pull the fusebox and use the little blue splicer thingies, you can do it.

If you are looking for them to line up with the 170 stat, then they will likely be on all the time anyway unless you live someplace cold.

If I am not mistaken the whole purpose of the Mazarmt Tstat is to reach operating temp faster, IMO the fans should not ever operate under 200F. Also keep in mind the only purpose of the fans is for pulling air while not moving, once moving the aerodynamics funnel more air then the fans ever could. So turning them on lower than 200 means that a significant amount of the time your fans will be running but serving no purpose except add extra drain to the system.

I went to the RX8performance website and could not find the kit. I guess I will call them today.

Does anyone have this kit or know how it functions? For example, is it adjustable and does it have a way to set the fan on and off temp?

One more question about our fans. I think I understood from reading some of the posts that the fans run in either parallel or series to get essentially two speeds. Is that true or does the ecu have some variable speed control?

+1 this

FWIW, according Racing Beat, a stock car will turn #1 fan on at ~207F and #2 at ~214F.

The stock fan-on temps make me nervous.

Racing Beat flashes have #1 fan turn on at ~189F and #2 at 194F.

Power Control Module (PCM) Flash - Specifications and Technical Information

Those RB temps make me nervous, optimal operating temp for a Renises is 200F.

Explain the logic behind having the fans on earlier then that :uhh:

Get a Cobb, set it to 200F, increase OMP rates. Get a tune if you want the benefits, and be done with it.

Thanks. For some reason I was blocked to that before, but I can get to it.

Can you do that right from the Cobb or do you have to have other programs.

You can do it all from the Cobb, 300 bucks and your all set, unless you want a tune in which case you can use the preloaded stage 1 for free or get a custom tune from a variety of reputable tuner's (most are members here) for whatever price you two agree upon extra.

Can also disable any CEL's that come up for inspection purposes. IMO the Cobb is the one item every 8 owner should have regardless.

I don't know why RB set it that way.
On that info page, it refers to mitigating heat spikes.
I can only guess what heat spikes are in a rotary and when they occur.

Perhaps they wanted to enforce temps within the generally accepted nominal street operating temps of 185-205?

Doesn't water jacket seal failure start at around 220?

220 has been seen by some members in extreme climates on track days, with no adverse affects, I would say 240-250 is were catastrophic failure occurs. I also believe you need to worry about the housings warping before the coolant seal fails, the seal itself does not normally just fail the housing warp thus rendering the seal useless and coolant rushes passed

Now I would not recommend anything above 215 for any relative duration of time to be safe, Just saying it has been done. Nor will you ever experience these temps with the OE cooling system unless you have a failure in the system that should be addressed

When you say "disable CEL's" does that mean permanently tell the ECU to ignore a cat efficiency code as a result of installing a catless midpipe or do you mean just clear the code only to have it come up in another 100 miles?

That one would be correct, Cobb is the only way to do this. Can also perform the same procedure when installing the RB block off plate and deleting the air pump

I don't want to walk on Carbon8's feet here but ...

There's also MazdaEdit software (ME)
And if you go with the Cobb AP you will need to download and the Access Tuner Race software and modify the Stock Style Map with your changes then load it to your ECU
.

More or less same thing with ME

WCS,

Is also correct, I believe the Cobb is cheaper, not sure exactly what MazdaEdit runs nowadays or even how it works. Its just not as popular of an option but still very efficient

Are there other options to purchase this or is madzamaniac the only one? All I see is the option to buy the unit and the custom calibration service or the base unit. Also, the base cobb unit can do all that you mention and it even has a tune in it for a basically stock car?

I see it $495 but you mention $300. Where can you get one for that?

Check the FS section here, thats where I got mine.

This is the only I can see now thats still open, check it every couple of days, have to jump on them quick of you can purchase from MM if you do not want to hunt down a used one.

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...ssport-247892/

Are there any other sources to buy one new?

No, MM is the sole dealer for the RX-8 CobbAP. He worked out a deal with COBB to bring it back after COBB discontinued it.

MazdaEdit is the other option, and that is growing in support and community knowledge/discussion. There are drawbacks for each of them: Who you have to deal with for the AP, and the developing nature of the software for the MazdaEdit

So when you buy a new Cobb it comes with the basic stuff loaded to do the fan temps, OMP, program out CEL for catless. Is it like other tuners (predator for example) where it is married to the car then the stock program resides in the tuner? Also do you have to pay yearly licensing fees to keep the thing working or one time pay and done just like the predator (as long as it is only married to one VIN)?

MM's base tune has that stuff, yes, though it's locked and you have to go through him for an changes (which he charges for).

The AP is married to the car, regardless of if the tune is locked or not. It's how the AP works to prevent sharing of APs between cars. You but the device to begin with, you have to pay additional for tuning, and repeat that payment any time you want to get re-tuned.

OR, you buy the device, download the tuning software, get some training/education on how to tune properly and what you do to flip stuff on or off, and do it all yourself with no additional costs (aside from repairing what you might break while you are learning)

I expect the MazdaEdit is paired the same way, but I can't confirm that personally.