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Low compression on a motor

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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 10:30 PM
  #26  
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If your ignition is all good id guess there was some sort of short in the remote start that might have caused it to not start and get flooded.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
If your ignition is all good id guess there was some sort of short in the remote start that might have caused it to not start and get flooded.
yes, I think it is because of a remote start. Because it never starts my car from the first try, it takes 2-3 times for it to start through a remote start. So I am pretty sure that it had something to do with a remote start. Thank you for all your help. I am very happy that my car is finally back on a road
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Im glad you got it running again too.

And thank you for putting the results up. Too many people fix stuff and never post it so you have threads with no end result.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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Seriously though, get the proper compression test done by a Mazda Dealership, and get the printout. Post the numbers up here, you may have de-flooded it for now, but chances are you might be back here in the same spot soon.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 08:52 AM
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Trying to find a rotary mechanic somewhere in nyc. No luck yet...
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 10:51 AM
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There are very very few "rotary mechanics" in the US. The closest one to NYC is in NJ I believe, JPR Imports?

If all you need is a compression test though, just go to a dealer, they will be closer.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 04:38 PM
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My Mazda dealership recently mis-diagnosed my car stalling as a compression issue and told me I needed to replace the engine. It turned out that the computer had lost the fuel trim levels since the battery had been disconnected. It drove fine the next time I started it and has ever since.
My point is that even the certified supposed RX-8 specialists jump to conclusions like this.
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 12:59 PM
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Okay, so I got my compression test done. Here are the numbers

Low compression on a motor-image-1502038933.jpg

The first row is for front rotor and second for rear

Last edited by QuiQuik2003; Jan 9, 2015 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 08:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by QuiQuik2003
Okay, so I got my compression test done. Here are the numbers

Attachment 207514

The first row is for front rotor and second for rear
That means absolutely nothing without an RPM number for each rotor. Go back and demand that they do it again.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 06:41 AM
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Oh sorry. That's at 250 rpm
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Failing.
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 05:08 AM
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Yep well, I guess by the time summer comes, I'll have to get a new engine....
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 01:01 PM
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I was looking around trying to find out when engines actually "fail" as opposed to "fail to meet Mazda specs". Some people are saying they still drive theirs with numbers in the 4's. Does anyone know roughly how low it gets before the engine stops starting? Or stops starting when hot?
I guess it depends on air temperature and altitude and stuff too but I was just wondering. Also I'm sure it affects the horsepower but I couldn't find any numbers on that either.
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Too many factors to just throw out one number.

Plenty of people have driven the engine without any seals at all, which would score 0.0s across the board on a compression test. Granted, it's insanely hard to start and the revs have to be kept really high, but it's possible. I watched another member set their bumper on fire from keeping the revs over 8,000rpm to keep the engine alive.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 10:41 AM
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Wow, that sounds...awesome? It wouldn't really be 0.0 though, right? I mean doesn't there have to be some compression to ignite?
At any rate, my point was that if QuiQuick2003 is in the 5.8-6.8 range he probably doesn't need to be panicky about getting a new engine this summer, right? Or do they drop that quickly?
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 10:49 AM
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Yes, you need compression to produce the necessary combustion. The rotary makes more compression the faster it spins, so what I meant was that at the testing rpm of ~200-300rpm, it would be 0.0. At 8,000rpm, it's generating enough compression to get the combustion, probably in the 4s or 5s.

This is one of the reasons why low compression engines usually still "feel fine" and it surprises owners.

In the 5s though, he doesn't have long before it is terminally unable to start without extra-ordinary measures. Probably less than 5,000 miles. Blowby is accelerating the rate of compression loss, eating away the seals faster and faster.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 06:46 AM
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But it wouldn't just stop starting one day. Would it? It'll take longer and longer for it to start. Right? I'm going back to JPR in about a month to see if the numbers keep dropping. Im still hoping it is recovering from that major flood that it went through recently. I know that wishing for numbers to go up is just wishing. But maybe they'll just stay the same.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:08 AM
  #43  
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There's those 5 stages of grief...

Sorry man, yes it will eventually stop starting while warm, then at all. Not one day, but week over week. Get a second opinion for sure, but if those numbers are right then that's kinda what it is.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #44  
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Yea well it's on original engine and it has 88k miles on it so it's not too bad. Maybe before it stops I can get it to 100 k. My boyfriend also suggested to put a mustang v8 engine in it. I did some research and it doesn't seem that anyone was actually successful at putting a new engine in or maybe just never posted the results. But I also love rotary so I really want to stick with the original engine. Maybe just turbo charge it for higher hp. That's the reason why I got this car. It's just so unique and so different and Im not about to just give it up. And I knew what I was getting into when I got this car. So Im sticking with the rotary.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 11:36 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by QuiQuik2003
Yea well it's on original engine and it has 88k miles on it so it's not too bad. Maybe before it stops I can get it to 100 k. My boyfriend also suggested to put a mustang v8 engine in it. I did some research and it doesn't seem that anyone was actually successful at putting a new engine in or maybe just never posted the results. But I also love rotary so I really want to stick with the original engine. Maybe just turbo charge it for higher hp. That's the reason why I got this car. It's just so unique and so different and Im not about to just give it up. And I knew what I was getting into when I got this car. So Im sticking with the rotary.
That's the spirit! Some people call it quits when stuff like this happens.

You have a bit of reading to do if you replace the engine with another Renesis (which is probably faster/safer/easier than other options). Things like where to get your rebuild and what to look out for when it's put in. There were mentions on the forum of Mazda re-manufactured engines shedding bits of silicone sealant into the cooling system, for one.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #46  
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Hi, sorry to hear about your 8.
You can maybe try a de-carbon (sometimes called Zoom cleaning, Seafoaming) process. You might want to research it, it might buy you some time, unless someone thinks it's not a good idea.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by BigCajun
Hi, sorry to hear about your 8. You can maybe try a de-carbon (sometimes called Zoom cleaning, Seafoaming) process. You might want to research it, it might buy you some time, unless someone thinks it's not a good idea.
yes, I do plan on doing seafoam this week. Friday or saturday. Also gotta do some research on how to do it properly cause different people say different stuff. So I'll do some research of my own on a forum.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki
That's the spirit! Some people call it quits when stuff like this happens. You have a bit of reading to do if you replace the engine with another Renesis (which is probably faster/safer/easier than other options). Things like where to get your rebuild and what to look out for when it's put in. There were mentions on the forum of Mazda re-manufactured engines shedding bits of silicone sealant into the cooling system, for one.
I think I'll just take it to JPR Imports. Seems like they're very good at what they do. A lot of people like them. So now just have to wait till the life on this one ends so I could put in a new one. And in a mean time I'll do some research. Maybe find couple things that will buy me some time. Thanks for the help!
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by QuiQuik2003
yes, I do plan on doing seafoam this week. Friday or saturday. Also gotta do some research on how to do it properly cause different people say different stuff. So I'll do some research of my own on a forum.
Read this full thread before you do anything, and decide for yourself: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/

Plenty of arguing throughout the thread, but unbiased pics of before and after decarbing with various common methods to just see what actually happens inside the engine.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Read this full thread before you do anything, and decide for yourself: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/ Plenty of arguing throughout the thread, but unbiased pics of before and after decarbing with various common methods to just see what actually happens inside the engine.
thank you very much. Some people say that it doesn't do anything and some say that it actually helps. So spending a few dollars and having even a slightest chance that it will get better is enough for me to want to do it. And if it doesn't it can't get any worse.
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