Im trying to find out if i should push 2 1200 watt autoteck amps to my 2 10in jl w3s or should i just push 1200 watts i want it to sound the best

 

Go big or go home. Send it.

 

U make no sense but w.e ha

 

What makes no sense is how you seem to think wattage is somehow correlated to sound quality.

 

You can have a 5k watt setup and will sound like **** if not setup properly. Please read and educate yourself first on system setups, then ask the correct questions. Louder does not equal better.
Also, if you are talking about the $60 1200w amps, you get what you pay for, but 1200W @ 4 ohm, single channel peak is about 50% of that @ RMS, which is what you should be looking at in combination to the sub (single, dual, ohms...). If you are talking about the JL 10W3-2, they are 2 ohms, the 10w3-4 are 4 ohms. Then take in consideration the enclosure type (sealed, bandpass ...) and material (usually 3/4" MDF, but other mats are used), crossover, power delivery to the amp (cap, dual battery, high amp alternator, big 3 upgrade, head unit, etc), but I'm probably going over our head with that, so do some reading then you will see what I mean.

 

^ Yeah, I wasn't going to bother. OP didn't give us enough information to determine anything useful, so he gets nothing useful back.

Autotek doesn't list power in RMS, so you know it's little better than junk. At 8 Ohms total, RMS is around 150W. At 4 Ohms total, RMS is just under 300W. At 2 Ohms total, RMS is a little under 500W. You are correct in asserting how much power he needs depends on the total impedance and sensitivity of the speaker(s) and type of enclosure. He didn't tell us any of those things. He would be much better off asking his general questions in a car audio forum.

I'm with 9K. Go big or go home.

 

Terawatt subs or nothing.

 

I'm biased for HCCA but would not mind a couple DS18 15" with 2 DS18 Hooligan Amps, back seat delete and about an extra 700lbs of weight in the car, lol. Go big or go home...