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The rear bumper is pretty easy to remove. There are drainage channels inside the body that could be clogged with leaves and debris. See if you can trace exactly where it goes using water and food colouring.
Sounds good. I'll check out how to take the bumper off then.
Record breaking heat out here on the west coast, and the temperature needle shifted. Just a tiny bit, while waiting at a red light, and turning off the ac instantly dropped it back into place. Never thought I'd need to start double checking my cooling system in what should be the land of rain and snow.
^^ the needle twitching up a little bit just means the vehicle was probably getting heat soaked sitting there (no air moving through radiators / oil coolers)
I thought it only snowed up North?
Record breaking heat out here on the west coast, and the temperature needle shifted. Just a tiny bit, while waiting at a red light, and turning off the ac instantly dropped it back into place. Never thought I'd need to start double checking my cooling system in what should be the land of rain and snow.
Its so very important even in Canada. Definitely get it checked out.
^^ the needle twitching up a little bit just means the vehicle was probably getting heat soaked sitting there (no air moving through radiators / oil coolers)
I thought it only snowed up North?
i wish! It's gotten hard to repair the igloo and dragging the dogsled through the mud is so hard on the team.
Anyone know who the reputable rotary specialists are in the lower mainland? I know one in Abbotsford, and another in Langley, but both are quite far.
Finally replaced this thing. That crack at the top goes almost all the way across. Does the forum darken images? This isn't anywhere near so dark on my computer. Also, don't clip those clips like I did along the front; you'll have to take them all off to install them.
Here's the new one.
Now there's only one ziptie that's holding things together on my underside!
Last edited by GA!; Aug 10, 2021 at 05:59 PM.
Reason: Image too dark!
I was replacing the interior bulbs in the car, and the glove box light doesn't come on with new bulb or old. Is there a secret switch for it somewhere or a fuse I should look at? Thanks!
Replaced the starter motor. Engine would hardly start cold before - sounded like an old man with a wheezing cough, and began not starting hot at all as the starter died. I was worried the engine had gone, and now sounds like what I imagine brand new was like!
My Throwout Bearing blew up; ballbearings and shredded bearing everywhere. Knowing what I know now, all the signs were there but I didn't know to look for them. It took three mechanics and about twenty days till the job got done (seriously only two days once the transmission got dropped), but WOW! I didn't realize that this is how quiet the car is supposed to be! It starts up even faster than before and the shifting is so smooth!
So here's a question. I can sometimes smell gas in the cabin when driving around. It doesn't seem to be from the exhaust (car is fully catted), or from the back seats above the fuel pump; I think it may be coming from the engine bay. Any likely suspects, or best procedures on how to track it down to share with me? Thanks!
check the quick connectors on the drivers side they are kinda between the shock tower and the engine. the clips are red and blue
Red connector looks clean. The blue one looks pretty goopy above the connector. I see three possibilities with it: gas is spraying up and getting dirt stuck there, it was already goopy but dripping gas has cleaned it off below, or it's nothing at all to do with that connector and I'm just making up stories. I'll have to take a look after a drive and see if either of them are wet.
Just been out. Wherever the leak is, it's fast enough to build up a smell when I start moving after a red light, but slow enough that I can't smell it when I'm actually driving. I left the engine running this time while I looked for any leaks, but the two quick connectors seem to be just as dry as they were before the drive, and I don't see any gas puddling anywhere around the engine bay. It definitely smells stronger around the quick connector side.
I’ve had injector o-rings leak. Shine a light down where the lower intake meets the housings and see if any liquid is pooling up there.
Nail on head. It looks more like a pipe bubbling rather than out of the lower intake, which means I might actually be able to deal with it myself. Will try to get a picture of it later.
It's too crowded in there to get a picture, but this diagram suggests what I was looking at was a leak in that line connecting the two fuel rails.
If you’re replacing the solenoids now with the UIM off, then it’s a good time to clean the SSV. You mentioned near the beginning of the thread the PO had overfilled the oil. I think this accelerates build up on the SSV. A good time to check the play in the mechanism on the vacuum pot actuator as well.
The blue end is leaking. The diagram is a bit misleading about where that red end is.
Damn electrical connector by the oil fill tube is stuck. On the bright side, everything else is free and ready to come out!
Got it.
SSV and VDI actuate very smoothly. Looks like no oil made its way into the intake - it all went into the old air filter. Took the opportunity to degrease the UIM while it was out; it was very very dirty. Underneath is no better, I can even see what looks like some lost nuts and bolts in an oily mire where the gasoline is pooling. Here's the hose I think is leaking. The diagram is a bit deceptive in how it actually connects.
Storm is rolling in now so I'm done for the day.
Which is the vacuum pot actuator?
And can I test if I got the leak without reinstalling everything and starting it up?
Finally, the part has arrived and I can replace my faulty "Car doesn't explode in a ball of fire" pipe.
After that's in, it's cleaning cleaning cleaning!
Dammit. Replaced the hose and I can still see gas coming out down there. There's no more bubbling at the hoses so I guess I fixed one thing anyway. Could be some Orings have gone... I don't think there's anything else down there so I guess replacing Orings is the next step.
And that's still no good. I think this is outta my league; time to take it to a garage.
After a series of emergencies, I was finally able to take the car for a drive. No more gas leaks, but it stalls at idle now. I'm going to try the 20-stomp reset, but does anyone have any better ideas if that doesn't work?