So I got the flashing CEL today after starting my car.. It could have been on from my drive home the night before but no later. I'm assuming this is from a misfire from what I've read and because I got a multiple random misfire code a few months ago. This is most likely because of the previous owner, while I bought the car at 1.7k miles I've read even driving at low rpm for a couple weeks can foul plugs and other parts to cause a misfire. The previous owner was a much older man and probably did not know what he was buying (hence selling at 1700 miles) just speculation. My question is is it safe to drive to the dealership about 20 miles away? And what else could the flashing cel mean. Only thing I noticed was a rougher idle.. The second time I started it up the idle was really shaky.

 

I would attempt to have the CEL codes read first before you take it to the dealership. If you find the time to sit down and read, click to open the thread below, you find useful information and a better understanding of what the problem might be. Discount codes and a D.I.Y. are also in there so you would not spend too much for parts and labor through the dealership.

SUFFERING FROM A MISFIRE? START HERE

 

Codes were from 2013, not sure if they still apply for this year. But I am sure someone in this forum have a list of them floating around.

 

That can be a crap shoot. Depends on how much of the ignition system has failed. When I had a misfire a few years ago, I barely made it to the dealer about 5 miles from home. Don't know if the cat and 02 sensor were still OK before I set out, but they were toast when I got there, coasting in with smoke wafting from under the car. Both coils on the rear rotor had failed.

So if you're not able to follow Grace's advice and wind up trying to drive it in, be prepared to stop along the way and call for a tow if things deteriorate.

Ken

 

Thanks for the advice. I also noticed a pretty bad smell kind of sulfuric.. didnt know if it was related to the car it was only there the first time i started it up.

 

As this is my only car i do need results soon. I dont see how i can check the code from my home. I have an appt. at the dealership tomorrow.. its a 2010 with 6500 miles. Im assuming its a misfire because i got one previously.. safe to drive to the dealership or get a tow? Dealership is now 7 mile drive

 

Most members within this forum myself included own code readers. Some more expensive than others but you can get a basic code reader at autozone for about 50 bucks mabye less. Remember though, you get what you pay for. As Ken-x8 has already said, that can be a crap shoot. Mabye you'll make it, Mabye you wont. It really does depend on the car and how much of your ignition is shot. No matter how severe the misfire, it's still damaging to your engine. Period, there is no question about it. Also while your at the dealership, have them check your CAT. It's a common issue among the forum members. Thats why most have switched to mid pipe or just gutted their CAT. Have you gone through and DOUBLE CHECKED all of your ignition system? No plug wires that just done seem to sit right? No connecters that wont snap when they go on? What coils are on the 8?

 

I would say drop the cat off the car now because of the smell most likely your cat is clogged and a clogged cat can kill the engine. Could be wrong but most of the time that smell is a dead give away and a single misfire can kill a cat.

 

So I got it towed to the dealer looked at and fixed. No idea if they checked the CAT, I'm going to pick it up soon I'll ask. They're charging me 400 no idea for what right now I'll check and let you guys know most likely overcharging me for whatever it is. What kind of damage could have been done driving with a busted ignition system? I got my first misfire reading about 3000 miles ago maybe less. After the flashing CEL it's only been moved off my driveway for the tow truck n started a few times.

 

It's not a singular problem that a bad ignition system can cause it's a cascading proble. Bad ignition = misfire = backed up CAT = high back presure = failing apex seals = dead engine. And I'm sure I'm missing some steps but that is the basic line. All in all especially if you still have a CAT still on the car and you have a misfire fix what ever caused it ASAP. Now this line of problems is not a definite but a possibility as I went (and not advised) 60k+ miles on my coils before I lernd of the need to change every 30k or less but luckily had no failures.

 

Damn. Well thank you for the help thanks all on my way to pick my car up now. I was aware of the recommended coil changes and the rest of the ignition system.. and I am going to be checking out catless midpipes for one of my next mods.

 

One last question would a mazda full circle inspection check my CAT or MAF sensor? The mechanics working on my car weren't there. Sorry for the double post is that not allowed on this site?

 

Honestly dont bet on the dealership doing anything that you dont specifically tell them to do. i would ask them to check the CAT.

 

Asking a dealership to check the cat is an exercise in futility. All they do is hook up a computer and see if it returns and codes or fails any test. A completely clogged cat will pass every test the dealer can scan for, needs a visual of the interior to confirm, and they won't pull it unless they have to.

 

I would say mid pipe it to be safe.