circutracer1511

Hello everyone! First I want to say that I've been reading hard through the forums since I purchased my car yesterday, familiarizing myself with every aspect of the RX8 I can.

I purchased a one owner, showroom new condition white 2006 Shinka (VIN verified) Special Edition, with 128000 miles on it. FULL service history and clean Carfax included. Brand new Dunlop winter sport directional tires.
Napleton Dodge in St. Peters MO was asking 8500 for it, and I talked them down to 7500 and purchased it.

During their inspections, they found a pinhole in the exhaust system, which they had fixed last night.
When I went to pick it up this morning, they informed me the check engine light kept coming on. They are now replacing the secondary air injector pump, and the catalytic converter, all at the dealer's expense.

So my questions to you guys... Did I get a good deal?
Are there any problems I should keep my eyes open for, relating to what's being repaired?

Also, I picked up a quart of Penzoil 5W-30 to top up with as needed. Anyone have any experience with this brand? Seems to be completely conventional oil, and is ISLAC (or whatever) compliant, as recommended by Mazda.

I'm a full time single father of 3, one of whom is severely autistic. My budget dictates that I NEVER make purchases for myself. Only for them.
So this car is a pretty major thing for me.
Any tips or tricks to get the mos out of the car, while extending its life and durability ad infinitum, will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
-Ryan D.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

What were the compression test scores? If they were good, then yes you got a good deal. If not, then no you got screwed.

If the dealer has a 3-day warranty or something on it, make sure to get that test before it expires. Needs to be at a Mazda dealer.


More reading, if you haven't gotten to it yet: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

circutracer1511

Didn't get a compression test. Having test driven it, I can attest there is no lack of power, and no delay in throttle response.

Is there a thread on how to test compression here?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

In the thread I linked.

No offense, but having test driven it, you probably still don't actually know what a healthy RX-8 feels like vs one that is slowly dying. We have new owners here all the time that love the power and delivery of an RX-8 they just got, and a few weeks or months later find out that the engine is failing. Or find a problem that leads them to replacing the ignition and they are blown away by how much of a gain was felt. New owner's just rarely have a proper frame of reference to properly evaluate the performance or health of an RX-8.


Considering it doesn't sound like you have much disposable income, and your kids will be indirectly affected by finding out that you bought an RX-8 with a bad engine, I'd strenuously recommend that you do not ignore the possibility. Dying motor RX-8s are dumped into the used market all the time. I'd hate to see you get caught out by one when you have the chance to detect it early enough to not be out of pocket on the engine replacement.

circutracer1511

What are the symptoms of low compression and or bad ignition? I've driven the RX8 new, and have owned several very high performance vehicles, including a 600 plus Hp 3000gt VR4. I'm certainly not unaccustomed to serious problems, but I accept completely that the rotary is a whole different beast unto itself.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Virtually all powertrain problems share symptoms with each other with only very slight differences. Ignition failure can feel the same as compression loss which can feel the same as a cat clog which can feel the same as a grounding problem which can feel the same as a clogged filter, etc...

The RX-8's performance from the factory is held on such a razor's edge, that the slightest problem anywhere can make it fall off, and they all make it fall off to about the same degree. Once it's fallen off though, the rotary can take a stupid amount of abuse and still let you drive the car around. Still, you don't want to be stuck with someone else's problem.

circutracer1511

Well then, after scheduling any recalls that need to be fixed, I will also schedule a general diagnosis and check over at the local Mazda dealer.

Thank you so much.

One more question... Do catback exhausts and cold air intakes do anything to hurt reliability or everyday driveability? I found a full catback system on eBay for 186 with free shipping...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

exhaust no
intakes yes

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

Rx8init

I my self just purchased a rx8 about a month ago and I love it but I have a 2006 with only 50,003 miles on it and I got it for 7400 it was listed at 8000 as we'll it has a clean car fax and all the service receipts from university mazda in Seattle wa. It was also a one owner car and it runs perfect but as I have read and noticed it can be a pricey one to fix just keep that in mind and I think you got screwed on the price .

circutracer1511

Pricing on Blue Book and Black Book is different for every State, and even counties. The RX8 is very rare in Missouri.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on purchasing my old car!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That's a pleasantly surprising turn of events.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I had the midpipe replaced last year, and I suspect the new one might have bottomed out and got a hole in it somewhere (likely @ the midpipe to exhaust connection). The catalytic converter should have been fine, but yay for getting a new one! :D

The CEL on the air pump was VERY intermittent and for me hadn't shown up for over a year since; glad you managed to get it replaced by them!

Enjoy the Koni Yellow adjustable shocks and RB springs! Hopefully they left you the adjuster key (metal cross shaped thingy). There is also a Progress Tech front sway bar installed; it is adjustable (I believe I last left it set at the middle setting).

Regarding compression, yes; the engine is below spec per a Twisted Rotors compression tester. However, the engine has been behaving just fine for the most part. Fortunately, the ignition system is very healthy (BHR ignition coils should be there unless someone replaced them). The car may have issues starting in VERY cold weather (sub 10 degrees), so if you are going to be DDing the car, I suggest getting a very strong battery for the winter.

Unfortunately the car is not a Shinka model (I still have the sticker to prove it). Sorry about that; the dealer screwed that one up -- I told them it's a GT. The good news though is that the suspension is even better.

Contrary to the label on the radio, it does have a 6 CD changer installed.

The Dunlops are on their 3rd winter; not exactly new. They do have deep tread at least; so they're probably fine as all-season tires for a while.

There is an AudioLink adapter wired into the aux port in the back of the radio that goes under the cup holder and through to the armrest compartment; it has a split for an iPod dock connector or a regular 1/8" minijack.

There is an Agency Power under-driven crank pulley installed (silver). If you ever need to replace the belts, make sure to match the ones on the car as it is, because the stock ones won't fit. I was lately occasionally getting belt squeal; you may need to tighten it up if it reoccurs.

I took off the spare tire kit and was planning on selling it, but since the new owner came back here, you can just have it if you want. I may also have the stock crank pulley laying around if you want that as well.

I can tell you anything about the car you care to know; just ask!

EDIT: I'll try to add things to this post as I remember them. ... Come to think of it, you could actually click on the link in my signature, and it'll take you to my vbGarage page, which has pretty much everything I've done to the car on it. Some of the things have obviously been uninstalled, though.

circutracer1511

So glad to hear from you! The car is an absolute sensation! I'd love to get the tire and pulley, and any receipts you may have. Tons of questions. 636-352-3603

Ryan

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on your purchase.
It's not often that the original owner can be available to answer your questions.
However, be aware that if the compression is below normal, you have to consider the possibility of a rebuild or replacement in the future.
May be the distant future, but it should be something you may want to start a savings fund for if you intend to keep it.
Good luck and have fun!

circutracer1511

So glad to hear from you! The car is an absolute sensation! I'd love to get the tire and pulley, and any receipts you may have. Tons of questions. 636-352-3603

-Ryan

gwilliams6

maskedferret I hope you passed on the actual compression figures (three numbers for each of 2 rotors) to the new owner. He needs to know the actual condition of that engine to plan his strategy going forward to care for the car and make it last. Circutracer1511 post those six compression numbers with the test's cranking rpm and altitude above sea level. Then we all can help advise him what needs to be done.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Feel free to PM questions to me and I'll try to get back to you as soon as possible. I don't really have any sort of receipts laying around that pertain to the car or any parts; I'm not sure what good any of it may do for you, but if I can find them in email form I will forward them on. As far as getting you the pulley and spare tire kit, I'd like to arrange it around a time where there's a local get together if possible.

Unfortunately I didn't keep record of the last time I tested it, but I recall the numbers were in the neighborhood of low 90s, dipping into the 80s (psi) after being normalized to 250 RPM @ 500 ft. above sea level (actual RPM speed was close to 280) per rotor face; the front rotor was slightly lower than the rear. Deviation between rotors and faces was minimal (within spec).

FWIW the last I had it on a dyno, it pulled about 170 whp.

gwilliams6

compression test chart , click on it and it will enlarge. According to the numbers supplied by maskedferret, you have a failing engine, firmly in the red. Folks correct me if I am wrong here, but that is my reading of our chart for the Renesis engine. Circuitracer1511 even a failing rotary engine may continue to run for a while. I suggest you still get a new compression test for your own sake to know what is really happening with your engine. It is not unusual for any RX8 with 128,000 miles on it to have an engine in need of being rebuilt or replaced.

circutracer1511

Pulls nicely, starts fine cold and hot, idles fine...

circutracer1511

Heartbroken to see that it didn't come with the tuner and/or the intake. Especially since I paid 7500 for it, with 4k down...
What tune is currently on the car?
Found the shock adjuster key in the glove box.
Cannot find the second jack for the audio stuff, just the iPod 30 pin. Is the audio thing Bluetooth as well?
Was really pissed about not being a Shinka after the fact, but I've got service credits at the dealer to cover the difference... So they'll be installing the new exhaust system and clutch assembly free of charge :-)
Speaking of clutch, is it stock? Did you have throw out bearing noise too?
I've been asking on forums about meet ups, but no one has an answer or any knowledge of any. Think of arranging one here in Ofallon.
Was really mad when I discovered the tires wearing bad on the inside, after they claimed they were new... NTB to the rescue though, hopefully.
Also, just changed the plugs and wires. Plugs were absolutely covered in ash, so I switched to 10w30 conventional Penzoil High Mileage (confirmed conventional by Penzoil engineer over the phone). Still the Laser Iridium plugs of course. Using brand new NGK wires... Should I go back to the MSD?
Dealer replaced the secondary air pump, and the solenoid that went out on I believe the exhaust port.
Seemed to be down on power, so I am running Marvel Mystery Oil now, as I have with all my vehicles, and from what I can tell she runs like a dream... Though I really have no frame of reference.
Couldn't figure out how to PM you on here BTW.
Is the engine original?
The reason I asked for receipts is to utilize any warranties on absolutely anything that's been worked on or replaced.
As for ever meeting up to get anything, I'm a full time single father of 3, and my youngest is a special needs child. Getting out is pretty hard for me... But if something ever works for you, let me know.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I sent you a PM answering your questions

You can PM anyone by clicking on their username on the left of their post in a thread and selecting "send a private message to ... "

To access the PM I sent you, hover your mouse pointer over your username at the top right of the page and go to Inbox. Alternatively, just a bit below that, click on "your notifications" -> "unread private messages".

gwilliams6

The NGK plugs are OEM and are fine, no need to change those. Ignition health is CRITICAL to the health of your rotary engine and cat, it can not be ignored! You should always change plugs, wires and coils at the same time. Your BHR coils will last the lifetime of your car ,so no need to change them if they are still in the car.

gwilliams6

Your RX8 has 128,000 miles on it. These are the maintenance items you need to check if they were done at the proper mileage. If not, they will need to be taken care of.

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I doubt they were removed.

Regarding other maintenance :

Motor mounts were replaced approximately at 85k miles.

RB oil cooler guards were installed after straightening out the oil cooler fins around 40k miles.

This being a 2006 model, it has an OEM AC condenser guard which I deemed sufficient, and last I recall did not have much damage to the radiator.