Hello by any change does anyone know how much it would cost to get a new rx8 motor from the dealer as well as the cost of installing it.
Some guy is offering to ls swap for 9k but I would probably go to a dealer for a safer choice and result

 

You can not purchase a brand new engine. You could purchase every part individually and have it built but the parts alone would be in the $8,000.00 range.

A remanufactured engine from Mazda would run you about $3000.00 or so and $1500.00 or so would be fair to remove your old engine and install the "new" one. 9k on a car that is worth $2500.00 is nuts, you could get a fully built race engine from Darryl Drummond for $9000.00.

 

Is your car an autotragic or manual?

If manual, here's the link to the best price I've seen for a Mazda reman:
https://www.promazdaparts.com/oem-pa...bC1yMi1nYXM%3D

You'll also need a gasket set:
https://www.promazdaparts.com/oem-pa...bC1yMi1nYXM%3D

If you have a garage and are even vaguely handy then you can do the work yourself with a basic set of mechanics tools and an engine hoist.

I've seen a guy on Facebook in the Phoenix area offering a 400hp LS swap for $9k (working ABS, AC, dash, OBD emissions test). It's tempting, assuming he does good work. I haven't seen any complaints but I've had problems with people who've had no complaints so it's no guarantee.

Keep in mind that you will NOT recoup your money on that. If you drop $9k on a LS swap, you better be doing it for your own enjoyment.

 

It is a 2004 automatic and I live in California so the price might vary in the dealer

 

Mazda remanufactured automatic engines actually cost ~$1500 more.

Best of luck in whatever you do.

 

Well a 2004 Auto is worth more in parts, I'd suggest cutting your losses.

 

LS swap isn't that cheap. I actually have seen one that's almost completed for sale on Craigslist near me, with an old Corvette engine and a 4MT. The reason they are selling it? Ran out of money. It's very close to being completed, but still, 9k is not gonna cut it.

4-port engine is more expensive than the better 6-port engine. Yep.

I agree you should cut your losses and get a 6AT 6-port, or better yet, learn to drive a manual and get the 6MT.

 

I will since the only problem the car has is when it shut down the car won't start back up and It only has 57k miles on it so I will probably see in the end

 

Daniel Nadal on the "LS POWERED RX8" Facebook group has a LS1 RX-8 for sale for $10k. LS1, Torquer 2 cam, LS6 intake, T56. AC, dash (check engine light) and OBD-II emissions test passing. That should be close to 400 WHP.

The builder (Daniel) is active in that group and has done a number of these. He offers a turn-key service where you drop your car off and pick it up a couple of months later with a fully functioning, daily driveable LS-RX-8. Once you get all of the R&D and engineering figured out, the biggest cost is probably finding good chassis and engines.

I think we're finally reaching a tipping point where there's a large enough body of knowledge that LS swaps are going to be attainable for reasonable prices. A buddy of mine who does NASA TT in an '8 told me he can't figure out why there isn't a Spec LS-RX-8 racing series if you can get a streetable example for $10k.

 

I guess I'll accept the lose and thanks for all your guys help👍

 

Well what is the actual problem? There a few reason these cars can become disabled, not all of them require a new engine.

 

The problem is that when I shut down the car it won't start back up until 10 min and some time the oil looks a bit creamy even after I switched it. Someone told me it's that the oil isn't heating up properly

 

The oil foam/cream thing is so common with our engines that you can't use it as a diagnostic indicator.

If it only needs 10 minutes to cool down before starting again, double check your fuel pump. 10 minutes seems like a very short period of time for >200lbs of iron to cool any significant amount.

Find somebody with a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up when it's working normally and when it won't start. It should be 55-65 psi.

Also, get a rotary-specific compression test. Don't just have some mook with a piston engine compression tester run the test because that won't tell you anything. If you're near Chicago, you can bring your car by my place and we'll run the test together.

 

And read the new owners thread. It will tell you what you need to know about this car, as well as guide you through some basic, well known issues.

Familiarize yourself with this car before you start anything else...