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Clutch or transmission?

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Old 08-30-2014, 11:26 PM
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Clutch or transmission?

So I recently posted because I'm new here and I got a 2005 Rx8 with low miles. Well everything was perfect until earlier today when my car didn't want to go in reverse. Well, that's the least of my concerns at the moment because now my clutch gets stuck about halfway in and doesn't like going into gear. I was at a light and I just couldn't get into first. Luckily I got it in second and started it off like that, and I could switch to third and everything. When I parked I tried changing my gears, it would grind a bit, and it just doesn't like going in first or reverse. I'm assuming it's the clutch because now it gets stuck halfway and I have to physically pull it back but I'm not too sure.
Old 08-31-2014, 12:02 AM
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Gets stuck how? I've seen mine go to the floor and stay there is this your case? If so I would start looking at broken clutch pedal mounting bracket,master cylinder,slave cylinder or fluid needs changing.
Old 08-31-2014, 12:08 AM
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Yes, first check the clutch pedal. It's easy and free and a common problem. Get down there by the pedal and mov it with your hands. It should have no side to side movement, nothing should be twisting, no welds broken, etc... How exactly it will move when a weld breaks changes from failure to failure, so inspect thoroughly for anything that seems odd. A welded clutch pedal assembly that won't ever fail again is available from BHR for pretty cheap if that is your problem, or an OEM pedal for about the same price that will fail again at some point.

If the pedal is fine, you can pull the starter (easy, 2 bolts to transmission, 1 electrical bolt, 1 electrical clip, nothing blocking access), and look into the bellhousing through the hole where the starter mounts. If there is fuzz/debris everywhere, it would confirm a clutch failure.
Old 08-31-2014, 12:20 AM
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Good suggestion mine look like a dust bunny exploded in the bell housing when my clutch was done.
Old 08-31-2014, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Yes, first check the clutch pedal. It's easy and free and a common problem. Get down there by the pedal and mov it with your hands. It should have no side to side movement, nothing should be twisting, no welds broken, etc... How exactly it will move when a weld breaks changes from failure to failure, so inspect thoroughly for anything that seems odd. A welded clutch pedal assembly that won't ever fail again is available from BHR for pretty cheap if that is your problem, or an OEM pedal for about the same price that will fail again at some point.

If the pedal is fine, you can pull the starter (easy, 2 bolts to transmission, 1 electrical bolt, 1 electrical clip, nothing blocking access), and look into the bellhousing through the hole where the starter mounts. If there is fuzz/debris everywhere, it would confirm a clutch failure.
Not a very good video but I made it real quick. I'm assuming it's the pedal but when pressed all the way it doesn't like getting in gear so I'm hoping it didn't ruin my clutch. Also, sorry about my nasty foot! Lol

Last edited by tenfootgiant; 08-31-2014 at 12:37 AM.
Old 08-31-2014, 01:06 AM
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Clutch pedal bracket.
Old 08-31-2014, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
Clutch pedal bracket.
Would that also cause difficulty in putting the car in gear or reverse? Or is it possible to have screwed my clutch that quickly?
Old 08-31-2014, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
Clutch pedal bracket.
The bracket looks solid, yes mine did that with no wiggle on the pedal but it got stuck to the floor and I had to replace the whole assembly(if you end up replacing the whole assembly, save your receipt so you can get a refund from MAZDA). You may have to remove it and visually check why it's getting stuck. Another theory is the spring probably lost lube and got sticky causing the pedal not retract all the way back. And, there is a push rod(#9 in the picture below) that goes through the firewall, a guide that's part of the bracket may have bent and isn't pressing the clutch master cylinder as it's supposed to. Check that.

Old 08-31-2014, 02:33 AM
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The clutch doesn't stick all the way in. It sticks about halfway. I can still push it in to engage the clutch(somewhat, I think it's not going all the way causing it difficulty to be put in gear). I'll check what I can in the morning, it's 3:30 and I'm exhausted. Thanks for all the advice, I'll look into it more after some rest.
Old 08-31-2014, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tenfootgiant
Would that also cause difficulty in putting the car in gear or reverse? Or is it possible to have screwed my clutch that quickly?
That's exactly what happens, because the the pedal can no longer apply adequate force to the master cylinder in order for it to disengage the clutch.


Originally Posted by Grace_Excel
The bracket looks solid, yes mine did that with no wiggle on the pedal but it got stuck to the floor and I had to replace the whole assembly(if you end up replacing the whole assembly, save your receipt so you can get a refund from MAZDA). You may have to remove it and visually check why it's getting stuck. Another theory is the spring probably lost lube and got sticky causing the pedal not retract all the way back. And, there is a push rod(#9 in the picture below) that goes through the firewall, a guide that's part of the bracket may have bent and isn't pressing the clutch master cylinder as it's supposed to. Check that.
First off, the bracket doesn't look solid. Even just looking at how the clutch pedal is much closer to the brake pedal than normal indicates that there is a problem.

The spring is making it get stuck? Just look at how the pedal pops back up with minimal force, the spring is fine, it acts the same way when you take it out of the car and actuate it by hand. The clutch pedal is normally pushed back out via hydraulic force which is created by the pressure plate. The most logical explanation for the pedal having free travel until halfway through the stroke, is that the pedal bracket tack welds broke, and the bracket bent away from the master cylinder, making it so that it has to travel that far before it starts applying pressure to the hydraulic system.

Take it off and I'm sure you will see that the welds failed on it. It's just a couple bolts and a connector.
Old 08-31-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
That's exactly what happens, because the the pedal can no longer apply adequate force to the master cylinder in order for it to disengage the clutch.




First off, the bracket doesn't look solid. Even just looking at how the clutch pedal is much closer to the brake pedal than normal indicates that there is a problem.

The spring is making it get stuck? Just look at how the pedal pops back up with minimal force, the spring is fine, it acts the same way when you take it out of the car and actuate it by hand. The clutch pedal is normally pushed back out via hydraulic force which is created by the pressure plate. The most logical explanation for the pedal having free travel until halfway through the stroke, is that the pedal bracket tack welds broke, and the bracket bent away from the master cylinder, making it so that it has to travel that far before it starts applying pressure to the hydraulic system.

Take it off and I'm sure you will see that the welds failed on it. It's just a couple bolts and a connector.
Thank you for your helpful advice. I've ordered the assembly that you recommended and hoping it doesn't take long to get here. I'm hoping everything goes smoothly with the install, biggest issue being that I'm 6'7" and getting under there will be fun.

Again, I very much appreciate everyone's advice and help!
Old 09-03-2014, 06:40 PM
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So it's the clutch assembly for sure. My BHR replacement comes in tomorrow and I'm looking forward to put it in....



But... when I was taking it out, I noticed a few loose hanging wires and something zip-tied down there. Now, I do tons of wiring on vehicles and such but I had to see what this thing actually was. Turns out, there's a GPS tracker in it. I'm wondering if the place I bought it from put that in or the last owner... but I'm not comfortable with that so it's getting yoinked.
Old 09-03-2014, 06:59 PM
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Mine had a GPS till it was payed for but be carefull it's not just a tracker it's a kill switch too so if you don't pay they can shut you down.
Old 09-03-2014, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by niteshade247
Mine had a GPS till it was payed for but be carefull it's not just a tracker it's a kill switch too so if you don't pay they can shut you down.
I'm going to look at the wiring, but it's only a constant and a ground, all the other wiring is clipped. It's literally just a tiny little box, probably like an antenna.

Edit: Not clipped, just not hooked in.

Last edited by tenfootgiant; 09-03-2014 at 07:24 PM.
Old 09-03-2014, 09:22 PM
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Yeah mine could fit in the palm of your hand the day I payed it off I made them take it out.
Old 09-04-2014, 09:41 PM
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So I have one last question. I did some searching and found how to change the clutch "bite" point... the new assembly I put in feels like I have to let the clutch almost all the way out before it catches, and before, when my foot was down on the clutch it engaged much sooner so I didn't have to lift my foot all the way. (I of course don't ride the clutch, I just mean that it caught a lot sooner so I barely had to lift before it started rolling)

What's the standard clutch supposed to be like or is it all preference?
Old 09-04-2014, 09:47 PM
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The clutch grabbing right when you start to let it out is another symptom of a broken clutch bracket. Sounds like it's working as intended now.
Old 09-05-2014, 07:49 AM
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Search for the owners manuals here, there is a procedure with free play and height measurements and process. If I remember, you want about 3.4 inch of nothing at the top, before you fell the release bearing hit something, then I do not remember past that.
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