Can anyone check out this posting and tell me if they too think it’s bogus? Or is someone just liquidating overstock? Thank you in advance.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F223193623112

 

They also have good feedback. Oem clutch kit.

 

Actually looks legit.

 

Yeesh. Hard to know. It is more than $100 off typical street price, which is a huge red flag. The photo could have come from anywhere. I wouldn't risk it, but...

 

They are tracking about 8% of their feedback as negative. All of them are consistent in their complaint, 'late delivery, wrong part sent, part did not fit, etc'
https://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...e&interval=365

Not worth the hassle in my mind to save a few bucks. Just find a reputable seller and support their good will and effort.

 

 

See above for his replies to my questions

 

There is no such thing as an OE alignment tool.

 

Not to defend him or play devils advocate, but the seller didn’t say OE alignment tool. He said And alignment tool. However it’s all still to sketchy for me. I’ll have a pro check it out such as Pettit racing or Maztech here in town to get assurance. Then I’ll get a refund if needed. Thank you for your time and replies

 

A lot of the time the people who reply to those questions have no clue about the specifics of each kit. Exedy isn't the greatest either. The clutch fit for me but the pressure plate didn't.

 

Exedy is stock? Are you saying you ordered this particular kit and had fitment issues? Or you ordered the actual mx1002 from Exedy and had issues? I’ve had nothing and heard nothing but good experiences with Exedy and the stock clutch

 

Yea I ordered direct from Exedy. Everything fit except for the pressure plate for me. Ended up using back the original one I had just to get the car working. That was almost 2 years ago now. Still no issues, clutch itself worked perfect.

 

It ended up being a legit Exedy clutch kit. But, not the right one. I received this one instead of the MZK1002

 

BTW, the Exedy OE replacement clutch kit does not include true OE parts. The pressure plate is different, and the bearings are different, at the very least. It works like OE, but it does not include the same parts that came installed from the factory.

 

I had very good luck with an Exedy Street/Strip clutch in my FD, and plan to run their clutch in the RX-8. I have heard complaints about Exedy with the RX-8, but nothing clearly indicating if a specific model year set was affected, or if the concerns are outdated and since resolved with part revision. I've had more challenges with aftermarket parts in recent years, and maybe Exedy is another brand that has fallen from grace a bit.

 

The issue with RX-8s and Exedy clutches are two-fold AFAIK.

Their Stage 1 clutch kits had problems with the friction material fraying and rivets letting go. That has supposedly been fixed, but there is really no rational reason to install a Stage 1 clutch in an RX-8.

Their OE replacement clutch kits had problems with the included bearings. At some point, they switched to supplying Koyo bearings, but the kit I recently bought included light duty bearings with no markings. I ended up using the Mazda pilot bearing that came installed in the new flywheel and an SKF heavy duty release bearing.

 

Do you happen to know off hand the Horsepower and Torque capability of the stock clutch system? For example, if I add a lighter flywheel, replace the bearings with Koyo or other Heavy Duty bearings would that support a 280HP RX8 no issue? Or if I went FI, would it be suitable for 325+ HP potential 175lb-200lb of torque?

 

Where are you going to get a 280HP RX-8?!

The torque rating is what matters, and you would still have less than 170 ft/Lbs of torque. So, yes, the OE replacement clutch will clamp far more torque than a normally aspirated Renesis can produce.

For FI, I would look elsewhere.

 

Well with the proper add ons, Ryan’s Rotary MsD ignition, Ryan’s Rotary lightweight Pulleys, Racing Beat Header, Racing Beat Midpipe, HKS Catback Dual exhaust, lighter flywheel, a street port, balance, blueprint and Tune from Pettit Racing. Along with some other goodies from Cam I was hoping to get near 280 at the crank. Also, while it’s there he’ll be doing more internal work to support future FI if needed.

so in your opinion, I should go ahead and get a more capable clutch now, to avoid having to do it anyway in the even I go FI. Or.... save the money and worry about that when the time comes?

 

You won't see that much without a peripheral port / hybrid port setup in a naturally aspirated configuration. The stock clutch will put up with 220lbs-ft of torque, which you won't see without a turbocharger/supercharger. Get a stock-grade clutch.

I see no issue with Exedy, but I haven't used their full clutch assembly on an RX-8 yet, only on RX-7's; thus I can only work from the data point provided above from other owners. I can say that as of September 2018, they do indeed use an actual KOYO bearing for the throw-out/release assembly, confirmed via the MZAK101 clutch accessory kit that I procured. I've also used ACT clutch kits on RX-7's without issue, another brand that I've heard mixed reviews about with the RX-8. Don't get too much clutch when you won't make near the power limit; target a clutch that can provide 20% more holding power than what you will actually make to the ground, covering 15% drivetrain losses and giving an additional 5% of buffer, the stock clutch should offer that, even with the mods intended.

 

This seems to vary. The MZK1014 kit I recently purchased (drop-shipped from Turn14, so legit) included light duty, non-descript bearings with no markings. NOT Koyo.

 

A lot of people have used the OE Exedy replacement clutch without issue, including me doing literally hundreds of 8000 rpm clutch drops on them at Pro Solo competition events. I did replace them every several years as general maintenance, but they looked fine and took the abuse with minimal wear when they came out. However the Mazdaspeed/Stage1 version had numerous pressure plate issues reported. Some early OE clutch discs had issues with the sprung-hub center section falling apart too. That seemed to be resolved after the first year or two of RX8 production.

Unless you’re going forced induction my recommendation is to resist upgrading it and sticking with an OE type. The engine just doesn’t make torque and there’s no point upgrading something that is more than adequate and doesn’t cause any downsides.

 

You are gonna need a turbo or a supercharger kit to hit 280. You will touch 210 max with this setup. Swap in a different engine if you want that amount of wheel horse power.

 

No, there are several engine dynos on here hitting 270 hp at the Crank/Flywheel (^^not rear wheels, you misread his post).

kind of doubting his engine will be close to that, but even those engines were only making 190 lbs/ft torque at the flywheel. Which again, you don’t need anything more than an OE type clutch for what a Renesis engine can ever possibly output in NA configuration.

 

I've got a lot of those upgrades and decent compression and I only make 200 whp. Probably close to factory power. If you hit 200 on a good dyno you did well in my opinion.