tbeam

I got the random multiple misfire code about a month ago. Took the car to jiffy lube and was told to drive it out n see if it would come back again. Woke up this morning started my car and there it was. I haven't gotten the code checked but I'm assuming it's the same thing. It's a 2010 sparkling black rexer with 7k miles. Any ideas as to what would be causing it at this low of miles? I did checkout the thread on this but any advice as to what would be most likely? I've kept oil full and changed.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Although it is low mileage, I would never rule out spark plugs. Depending on your driving habits the plugs could foul up very quickly. If you could, remove the spark plugs and take a pic for us.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Check to see that all of your wires are snapped on tightly to your plugs & coils.

tbeam

So, I went on a trip this past weekend, came back started my car up, and the CEL was gone. I did drive it for about an hour after seeing the light but other than that haven't touched the car. What could this mean? If it was a misfire I'm assuming the light would stay on until cleared.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, many CELs will actually self-clear if it detects that the conditions that triggered it have been been resolved.

A misfire code is not one of them. Are you sure that the solid CEL was for a misfire? It could easily have been a loose gas cap, and you fixed that, for example.

tbeam

Couldnt have been the gas cap as all I have done is drive the car for an hour or less since the light came on. I was assuming it was a misfire because I got a misfire code about a month prior. When the light went off wasn't sure what to make of it so I came here. Should I not worry about it?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The evap leak check is only done when the coolant is hot and the fuel level is between certain percentanges, like 25% and 75% or something. It doesn't check all the time.

If the light disappeared, yeah, shouldn't be anything to worry about since the ECU sees it as resolved. If you check for codes anyway, you might find a pending code if it's an intermittant problem.

tbeam

Alright cool. Ill get it checked out to be safe next time im at a dealer or shop. Thanks for the help.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Autoparts stores will check them for free. You can get a bluetooth OBD2 adapter for rather cheap, and pair it with your smartphone or tablet, then download an OBD2 app to get full access to the ECU data. Lots of uses, in addition to never paying for a code diagnostics fee again for any cars in your family/friends/etc...

One of the key benefits is knowing what coolant temps you are actually running, since it gets the original unmodified coolant temp, not the crippled stock gauge one.

tbeam

Awesome I'll have to check those out. May sound dumb but what is the importance of knowing my coolant temps?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The factory coolant gauge stops moving when your coolant temps hit 160F or so. It won't start moving again until you hit 235F. You can blow a coolant seal at 220F. The factory gauge is worthless for paying attention to how hot you are running.

tbeam

Ok didn't know if there was more to it than that. Thanks again for the info.