Hello everyone, new member here, I've gotta say this forum has lots of useful information. I'm about to purchase a 2006 rx8 GT, it's got a clean body, and interior, 130,000 Km (80,000 miles). They're asking $3,900 Canadian, but talked him down to $2,500. As far as I can tell the car needs ignition coil bracket, alternator makes a bit of noise for the first few minutes when cold, and has a weak battery. Now my main question is based on what I read here is, the car has hard start when cold or hot, have to crank it up for about 5-6 seconds before it starts, does that necessarily mean bad compression or could it be related to something else? I'm planning on getting a compression test regardless... but it does drive fine. Do you guys think it's worth the money?
Here's a link to the car:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/c...ationFlag=true

 

May just need a fresh ignition or a MAF and intake cleaning. Or could be low on compression. If the compression is good and you're willing to put in the time to get it running right, it's worth it.

 

Definitely get a proper rotary compression test. It is the only way to know what is going on with the engine.

 

I have booked an appointment at a Mazda dealer for the test. When I drove the car it seemed fine no loss of power or anything.. is 80,000 miles a lot for the rotary engines? Not sure how far they can go as I'm not familiar with them, my previous car was an 08 Pontiac solstice gxp similar in terms of rear wheel drive etc.. but totally different engine

 

If you have not read this thread in its entirety, do yourself a favor and read it now.

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Yes, 80K miles can be a lot for some rotary engines. Well-maintained engines can last much longer, but most of them in the wild are not well-maintained.

 

If the test comes back with either rotor failing, then the car is not worth more than around $1k in Canada, honestly. Alternatively, by some miracle, if the motor is getting great compression scores, the car is going to be worth a bit more than what you've talked him down to.

 

Keeping my fingers crossed on the test, got an appointment this Saturday, that will determine whether I buy the car or not

 

I thanks for redirecting me to that thread, I did read it before but didn't realize there was two pages to it.

Quick question, according to that thread if my compression numbers come back in the 7s I should still be ok, but preferably should be in the 8 range. Am I correct. Just making sure I got this right

 

Sounds good, man! Keep us posted.

As for the compression results themselves, low 7's are generally considered the downtrend for these motors. It means realistically you need to start preparing for a rebuild. Most people consider 7.4 and below, when normalized to 250RPM, to be the cutoff point for a strong motor. At those numbers, the motor has maybe 20,000 miles in it provided you baby it.

Usually 7.5-7.9 is what you find in healthy motors after the break-in period.

 

Thanks for clarifying that. Will keep you posted on what happens

 

yes keep us updated, im curious on the outcome.
if the salesman will drop like 30% of the price you can safely asume he knows there is something wrong (probably he noticed the hard starting). Lets just hope this is due to ignition, battery or starter and not compression (you' ll have a rly good deal).

 

I will, I'm hoping is just because of the battery being really weak, plus one of the coils is loose, one of the stud on the bracket were it bolts on is broken so needs a new coil bracket. The guy selling it doesn't really know much about this cars, he only had the car for a few months, couldn't figure out what the problem was, so decided that this car was not for him, he didn't even know about the coils, I pointed it out to him...

 

Well did the compression test, and it was no good, Rotor #1 was on the 6's 6.8 6.6 .6.5, rotor #2 5.6 5.7 5.4... so guess I have to keep looking for another one

 

There are plenty out there. More often than not, you really do get what you pay for. If the car is rust free and clean, its worth putting an engine into IMO. Rust is a major killer of these fine cars and a lot of people rice them out and ruin them. Clean ones are the way to go IMO.

 

Good for you! Many prospective owners don't bother getting a rotary-specific compression test and end up living horror stories. You've just saved yourself a lot of time, money and frustration.

 

I'm glad I did bring it to the dealer to check, they also said the car has been in an accident at some point, the plastic cover under the car was missing, rad had a smal leak, oil pan was rusting out so were the brake lines etc... so many issues that you wouldn't expect by just looking at the car..

 

I have one more that I'm going to look at tomorrow, I'll see how it turns out... only thing this is a bit older but less mileage.

2004 Mazda RX-8 GT for $4,500 in SCARBOROUGH | autoTRADER.ca

 

Keep us posted on how it turns out. Looks like a nice example.

 

AUGH! Pass on the leather!

 

meh brown leather aint that bad, better then red

To bad compression was low on ur first choice and lets hope the 2nd one is better.
Fingers crossed!

 

Ok so, I went to look at the car, and it looks pretty clean, no rust, the interior is in great shape, normal wear and tear... underneath from what I could see is clean as well, drives good, coils a plus etc have been replace, new brakes and tires....
Now here's my dilemma, the guy said that due to his busy schedule with work, is going to be hard for him to find some time to go to the dealer with me for the test... so from what I could tell, the hot start issue is not there, I know it doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't a problem.... the car mileage is only 91,000 Km (57K miles) it's not low but not even to high, so should I take a chance or just pass on it whit out that test?

 

Btw I know it is hard to say yes go for it or no leave it.... just asking on opinions on what you guys would do

 

Really the risk for you is the price of a new engine, say $5k. If you're OK with maybe having to spend that money, then go for it. If a $5k expense would ruin your finances, then push him on the test.

The other thing is .. does he want to sell the car? If he does, he'll make time for a test. It's not like has to perform it himself, he just has to bring it to a place, and you can give him a lift to work or whatever.

 

I'm still convinced the best way to do it is buy an RX8 with low compression for dirt cheap (~$1000) and then replace the engine. Then you know exactly what you have and it will be cheaper in the long run. I got mine for $800 with 55k miles and low compression due to carbon buildup. The guy babied the car but knew nothing about rotaties so he never redlined it etc. Thought he was doing the car a favor, when in fact he was doing ME a favor instead! :D

 

Doesn't matter if the engine is as healthy as a horse honestly. These Renesis engines like to let loose on a whim. Mine let loose at 94k in m BB 04 on start up. Started, and then I heard a pop and that was it for compression on the front rotor. I always premixed, I redlined it at least once per day, I had a BHR ignition, new plugs and wires, new catalytic converter, Mishimoto radiator, non synthetic oil with Mazda oem filter, always used premimum fuel, garage kept and summer driven only, fresh air filter, literally every precaution was taken to ensure long engine life. It just let go. Happened to me about 15 years ago on a 12A on my way into work.

If it runs and drives well and you really honestly love the car, then yes buy it!

I am with the above about buying the 8's cheap and putting a new engine in and basically freshening the car up. This way you really do know what's been done to the car. You're either going to front the money now or later. Eventually you'll have to replace the engine. The last two 8's that I've purchased have needed and engine and I got them both for next to nothing.