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New to this forum but have a problem that iv'e decided to try getting an opinion . I have a 05' rx8 , I changed the alternator and after I did, this problem came across me .
I revv it up to 6rpm and all these lights turn on ABS,TRACTION, e-BRAKE, and battery light as well as if I were driving it up to 30-40mph . I went to check the alternator that I had replaced and it tested out good. I warrantied
the battery as well and put on a new battery. the power steering has been out for the past two months and its not really something im much bothered but when i drive and all these lights turn on , the car doesnt drive well when lights turn on. and its only after I replaced the alternator the first time , there is a P0102 and P0301 code.the two wires of the alternator plug slightly show but i am not sure if it's related or if I should replace the connector plug.
I replaced the coils , plugs , wires recently as well.
Any suggestions ?
Abs Traction e-Brake , and Battery light on when revved up to 6rpm
Can you measure the battery voltage while it's at 6k and throwing these lights? They tend to mean low voltage but that's weird given the new alt and battery. Perhaps the bew alt is not behaving well.
I have a similar issue with mine that I am troubleshooting. Hooked up a voltage gauge in cockpit direct to battery and found that, my second alternator replacement and third battery, have done nothing to resolve the issue. Only difference between our issues is mine occurs at 8500rpm and the voltage gauge is showing an over voltage situation that goes from a steady 14.2v up to 18v when all the dash lights come on and power steering is no longer power assist .
Knowing that it is over volting I am definitely not going too be doing too many of these sessions of inducing the failure mode as ECU damage is a concern…as is another expensive battery.
Have had my alternator tested multiple times by various shops and they all say “it is good”. Battery is the same situation. Today as a matter of fact I put the third battery in, this time a standard lead acid versus the prior AGM’s.
So long story short…anxious to hear what you find. And sorry for polluting your thread.
I was having this issue with those lights and then i noticed my tail lights were staying on when parked. My brake switch was working, but it wasnt being pushed in all the way. My guess is the bracket the switch is on kept being bent back when pedal comes up. I bent the bracket that the brake switch was on and havent had the issue since.
is this the true definite cause? I dont know but it fixed it so worth a shot
I have a similar issue with mine that I am troubleshooting. Hooked up a voltage gauge in cockpit direct to battery and found that, my second alternator replacement and third battery, have done nothing to resolve the issue. Only difference between our issues is mine occurs at 8500rpm and the voltage gauge is showing an over voltage situation that goes from a steady 14.2v up to 18v when all the dash lights come on and power steering is no longer power assist .
Knowing that it is over volting I am definitely not going too be doing too many of these sessions of inducing the failure mode as ECU damage is a concern…as is another expensive battery.
Have had my alternator tested multiple times by various shops and they all say “it is good”. Battery is the same situation. Today as a matter of fact I put the third battery in, this time a standard lead acid versus the prior AGM’s.
So long story short…anxious to hear what you find. And sorry for polluting your thread.
Im running into the same issue with a P2504 high voltage code, new reman alternator and new batter, im gonna test all the grounds and the pcm tmr.
Im running into the same issue with a P2504 high voltage code, new reman alternator and new batter, im gonna test all the grounds and the pcm tmr.
Sounds like a voltage regulator problem, which on this car is built into the alternator. Was the rebuilt alternator bench tested to kake sure the regulator works? I don't really see how it could be the ECU
Sounds like a voltage regulator problem, which on this car is built into the alternator. Was the rebuilt alternator bench tested to kake sure the regulator works? I don't really see how it could be the ECU
I had a reman autozone alternator, when the issue came up, prolly had 5k miles on it. Got a reman from mazda cuz you cant buy them brand new, i assume they bench test them, i did not do a charging system test with the mazda one since it was clear that probably wasnt the problem.
Hmmm. The two-wire plug on the back of the alternator has to do with the voltage regulator. I think it's just a transistor that activates/deactivates the charging function based on voltage as seen by the ECU, but make sure that loom is not damaged and the ECU end is snugly plugged in?
There's just not much to the voltage regulation system. Checking ECU grounds wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Hmmm. The two-wire plug on the back of the alternator has to do with the voltage regulator. I think it's just a transistor that activates/deactivates the charging function based on voltage as seen by the ECU, but make sure that loom is not damaged and the ECU end is snugly plugged in?
There's just not much to the voltage regulation system. Checking ECU grounds wouldn't be a bad idea either.
yeah i agree on all of that, im looking at it tmr so ill update you lol
I think I would measure the alternator output voltage directly at the alternator. Using a multimeter, touch the positive lead to the 12V terminal on the alternator and put the negative lead on the negative battery post. I would then have someone rev it to 5k rpm and up rev range and monitor the output voltage. I would be curious to see what voltage the alternator is putting out.