jorlanjm

So I got my 2010 RX8 GT about 3 years ago with 41k miles...at 70k miles my throwout bearing blew and I didnt have the time to work on it so I took it to the dealer in San Diego to just replace the whole clutch system.

Dealer did the job fine, but mentioned that they had a hard time starting it back up so they did a compression check cause RX8's are known for engine failure close to 80k miles.

Reading was supposed to be...
Rotor 1: 8.1,8.0,8.0 @ 325RPM's
Rotor 2: 7.9,7.8,7.9 @ 320RPM's

I told the dealer I never had issues with the engine and starts and runs fine, no power loss or idle issues.

Dealer said they can replace the engine.

So I said that I doubt theres an actual issue with it but ok fine its still under warranty anyway.

Dealer quickly pointed out that its off warranty and I have to pay for the engine replacement.

I told the dealer about Mazda's warranty extension and dealer said they dont know about any extension and its not showing on their system that I have an extension.

I asked the dealer to finish up my car and Ill drive it home and talk to Mazda HQ about the extension. And as usual car starts fine and runs fine.

Got the confirmation that my car has the extension till 17 December 2018.

Took it to the dealer and dealer said they will do the compression test again cause they think something went wrong with the compression test.

So the dealer was so quick and ready to replace and charge me for a new engine...then I soon as I got confirmation that its still under warranty they are saying there something went wrong with the test. But now Im at a point to were they better not be lying to me, if I need a new engine replace it now while under warranty. Or if my engine is fine why the hell would they tell e to replace it in the first place, thats really shady.

Jimbob

Bought my 2005 RX-8 GT in Dec 2016 with only 63,000 km (39,000 miles). As part of the purchase agreement, I insisted a compression test be done at a local Mazda dealer in Richmond Hill, Ontario. The service manager suggested the results indicated that the motor was in excellent condition other than needing a set of plugs which he showed me were quite fouled. The results were:

Rotor 1: 8.2,8.3,8.6 @ 280 RPM
Rotor 2: 8.5,8.6,8.3 @ 278 RPM

Not sure if it was a Mazda dealer you were dealing with but there are a few points to remember about the Rotary engine and starting it up. Anyone who is not familiar with the unique characteristics of this motor often think it is hard to start compared to a normal reciprocating engine which usually fires up almost immediately when you turn the key. Due to the nature of the engine design, I find in general that I have to hold the key in the start position for few seconds as the motor spins up and builds momentum (much in the same way a jet engine comes to life). I always shut my engine off using the prescribed method on the YouTube video that not only clears the compression chambers of raw fuel (preventing future flooding) but also lubricates the apex seals so they don't run dry on that next cold start-up. The rotary engine is especially susceptible to flooding when it is started up cold and only run for a short period then shutdown the way a normal engine would be. The extra rich stream of fuel makes everything wet inside the combustion chamber and often requires considerable cranking (to clear it out) before it finally fires up. To the uninitiated, this is a hard-to-start engine and often happens when cars are left for servicing at a place where most folks have never heard of a rotary engine.

While I can't say for sure if your compression numbers are indicating that your seals are getting tired (or are still perfectly acceptable), I strongly recommend a fresh set of spark plugs since carbon deposits often foul them far sooner than those in a normal engine especially if the car is driven conservatively and the engine doesn't see higher RPMs as a part of the normal driving cycle. Also the original factory coils were a bit of a weak design and should have been replaced by now (along with new wires) on a car with your mileage.

Most dealers would charge a reasonable fee to do a compression test ($100 US?) since it is a bit more time consuming than normal and requires a special tester that is unique to the rotary engine. While you don't mention if you approved that procedure, I suspect that your service shop may have been trying to fatten their wallet and take advantage of the situation. There is no way an official Mazda dealership would NOT be aware of the rotary engine warranty extension. A quick scan of your VIN would likely show that. While I have a copy of the Canadian engine "Core Components" warranty extension for 2004-2008, there likely exists one for your model year in the US. Your best plan of action would be to source out another reputable Mazda dealer and get a second opinion before December 17th, 2018!

Good luck,

Jim

jorlanjm

I replaced the plugs around 65k miles... Im very familiar with the rotaries, i had an RX7 in the past.

And it is a Mazda Dealer i went too with an actual rotary engine compression tester.

But im really disappointed that they were really sure i have low compression when they were going to charge me for it but then now they want to make sure the test was right when im still in warranty.

Jimbob

It sounds like you have done all the right things. How about your coils and wires... Are they still original? Given you've owned rotaries far longer than I have, does your car start up like you would expect it to? I have read a few other threads on compression results and your numbers don't seem to indicate anything out of the ordinary. Sounds like you were able to take the situation to the next level in Mazda's service organization to find out about the extended warranty. Was the dealer prepared to do a second compression test at no charge? Were they going to have a different technician perform the test? It would be nice to look over their shoulder and see their results! If they determine you do in fact qualify for a fresh motor under warranty then I'd say take them up on the offer. Of course it would have to be approved by Mazda's National or Zone Warranty folks. It would be good to know what low level of compression must be achieved in order to get the engine replaced. Perhaps there are others on the forum who could chime in.

Let us know how this plays out if you decide to proceed!

Jim

jakejm79

I'm going to assume your location is accurate so there should be little correcting for altitude if not already done. I believe Mazda's cut off is 6.9 @ 250RPM, you only have one number that falls under that and only just, the 7.8 corrects to 6.88 (if the tester is only accurate to 1 decimal place then it would likely round up and be a pass). I think this is a case of the dealer seeing the compression is border line knowing that they wont be able to get it approved under warranty and now trying to save face because they 'embellished' a little saying that you needed a new engine. While not completely done for the engine is nearing the end of its life (as are most with 70K), keep driving it for a couple more months, bring it back in during December and cross your fingers that you have dipped below that 6.9 cut off. You might want to ask for the figures in the test kPa could be a little more accurate when you are right near the cut off line.

MacAttack

iTrader: (1)

In my experience, the service advisor as well as the "warranty" people don't know about this rotary specific engine warranty. Even their system doesn't even show it. What I did is just politely ask them to read in my owner's manual where it says 96 months/100k for rotary engine (it's there, but you have to look carefully).

Then after they see it the should agree to call Mazda and after about an hour it will all be cleared up. I also have a 2010 and went thru this exercise twice within the last 6 months at two different dealerships.

About your results, did they charge you? Did they give you a print out? Hard to believe they would go and run any diagnostic procedure (done properly) on their own dime.

In my case, I agreed to pay the fee but since it failed and warranty would cover the engine they also said the test was covered under warranty.

UnknownJinX

Just my observation:

I occasionally had some long cranks during hot. It's quite random and unpredictable. 99% the time, the car takes 3~4 'clicks' to start, but then there are those "the stars happen to align" times where it would take like 10+ 'clicks'.

Looked up and some people said a fuel pump relay could be the issue, and it's only like $10 a pop. Usually I am not a fan of "throwing parts at it", but I gave it a shot and it has worked so far.

NotAPreppie

Warranty work typically pays less than non-warranty.

jorlanjm

Yes, i gave the dealer the letter from Mazda with the phone number stating 17 December 2018 expiration for the warranty... But yes car starts as it should and runs fine no power loss.

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I was charged the initial compression test $120. They shouldnt on the 2nd one since supposedly they will just verify again.

Petscar

Jinx, by clicks, do you mean it takes 3 or 4 times turning the ignition on? Or do you mean 3 or 4 seconds before it turns over?

Sydo

UnknownJinX

By 'click', I mean the 'krr' sound when you crank the engine with the key at the START position.

In terms of time, it usually starts within a second. The occasional longer cranks take maybe 3 or 4 seconds instead.

Oats

They should replace the engine and reimburse you for the compression test. If they don't then they are liars who got caught trying to scam you out of $7k+.

Petscar

Mine always seems to take 3 - 5 secods to start. I do have the weak starter.

wannawankel

It should not take that long (3-5 sec). Do you ever have misses or stumble when it's hot?

UnknownJinX

Didn't you mention that you possibly have low compression and old ignition components?

I talked to a guy with an RX-8 with low compression(he's aware of it) a while ago. Yeah, it took him about that long to start his car.

Petscar

It never misses or stumbles. It runs incredibly smooth.

Both Kris and i are questioning the compression results. Here why....rotor 1 tested at 195 rpms 3 times which makes sense as it is an 05 with the weak starter. When we tested rotor 2 the rpms were about 295. At that point the conversion showed it failed. Another test on rotor 2 tested at 205 rpms which is where we expected it to be in relation to rotor 1 taking into account a weak starter. That test showed right on the border line. We plan to do another test after i redline it for a while. The previous owners hardly ever red lined.

i have new plugs a lready in and will be putting new wires and coils in this week.

furansu

This. A compression test to verify a low-power condition would be covered under the extended engine warranty as diagnostic process to confirm replacement. If it was an unapproved compression test and the dealership failed to notify you of the work which was not specifically requested by you or as part of the clutch-release bearing repair, you cannot be charged for it.

I'd proactively contact Mazda NA, report the compression results and statements from the dealership. Let them become involved, it will be positive either way as it will either push the engine replacement approval, or highlight the dealership's questionable practices.

jorlanjm

So the Mazda dealer said they run the test a couple of times and Im at the low 7's on compression but since they said they will replace the engine in the first place they will honor the initial diagnosis and replace the engine.

However the engines are on back order and they will have to get one from Japan and it might take up to a month wait.

So I am driving a loaner car from them until they put the new engine in.

But did not specify if it was a reman or new.