gcb

Hi there.

I've looked for info here and other forums. I am trying to decide between two used cars to buy this weekend. Would appreciate any inputs.

Both are 6spd. I plan to do light tracking with the car. i.e. no cage anytime soon. But let me know if something i am comparing is irrelevant because of this. For example, if I am favoring one suspension when both would be useless even for basic tracking (though i think they are the same, but that was an example)

Car A is a 2008, 40th anniversary edition. Under 80k miles.
What I like: colors, rims, price. Stability and suspension same from R3
What I dislike: the most ridiculous keyfob in the universe.
Questions i need help:
- does the foam for the more rigid crossmember have a expiration date?
- Does it have the middle lubrication port? (I can't answer this and it is driving me crazy)
- What would a hole in the button cluster left of the steering wheel for a toggle switch have been used for? :)


car B is a 2011 R3 with almost no miles.
What I like: new. modern features. R3 factory stuff. The steering wheel is a huge improvement from the 2008, not that it bothered me much before seeing the new one.
What i dislike: price. colors. it's two+ hours drive away :)
Questions:
- Did they fix the idiotic keyfob? :)
- Is the redesign more than just aesthetics compared to the anniversary edition?

thanks! appreciate any comments

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

i dislike the basketball looking interior of the 40th annv but im not a fan of the series two front bumper and fenders. the series 2 has a better starter, better trans and the engine has 3 oil injection ports per rotor, the s1 has two per

either way get a rotary specific compression test before buying

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The R3 sounds like a clear winner, but as the man says, compression test will tell.
The 40th Anny might have a slightly upgraded suspension but it also has a sunroof, which matters if you are a tall dude wearing a helmet, and doesn't have the recaro seats of the R3. The foam thing doesn't matter, don't even worry about it.

Also the R3 still has some of its 8-year 100,000 mile warranty.

40th8Jake

I may be biased in having just bought a 40th Anniversary, but my 2018 Versa uses a key from 1995. So I like the key fob, it’s very quirky. I believe the real objective is the best deal with what kind of money and use you’re looking for. If you have the money and want to track it, the R3 forsure. I would imagine heavy modifications eventually anyway.
I’ve driven the 08 pretty hard on corners already and it stays flat flat flat. Even was overtaking a new Kia stinger (like 360hp) on corners. If you have the extra dough and want to track it go for the R3

UnknownJinX

Whichever has better engine health(so rotary-specific compression test) gets the money.

Actually, if you really want to track, a better idea is buying an S2 Sport and then mod it yourself. Why pay the extra for R3 when you are just gonna rip everything out anyway?

IMO R3 is good if you want to do some tracking, but nothing really serious. If you are in it to win it, you will be better off building a track car off of a Sport.

gcb

> Also the R3 still has some of its 8-year 100,000 mile warranty.

I have never considered those to be of any value in any used car. Will learn more. thanks for mentioning!

> sunroof

i didn't even realize the r3 didn't have one. And this count for wife points.


Thanks everyone for the inputs. The s2 transmission would be nice, but i guess it is too small of a change. I will try to get the compression test done on the 2008 first. It is a pain to get those things done from small lot dealers! if anyone have any good argument to win them over let me know :D

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

ask them if a $150 test at mazda is worth losing a sale

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Are you buying from a used car lot? Don't even let them do the test, they don't have the equipment. Get it done at Mazda.
These things aren't exactly flying off the shelves, if they want to move inventory to a good-faith customer, a test is small price to pay.

UnknownJinX

That warranty is an OEM warranty, so any Mazda dealer will have to honor it. Just make sure you check the original purchase date of the car to see if it's still covered.

If your S1 transmission breaks for some reason, buy a used S2 transmission, which just requires you to do some minor wiring work and it bolts right up.

Hi Flying 8

iTrader: (2)

And replace the shifter.

potatochobit

my 2010 series II engine warranty expired last year
also, if the engine was already replace once, that comes with a 2 year warranty after replacement

the R3 is the way better choice either way

the hole on the left could have been an engine kill switch or a boost gauge? idk.
got boost, bro? lol

gcb

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions! I will try to get the R3 and the 40th ed as a plan B it seems.

I am returning to town this week, so maybe in a few days i will add to the picture threads!

The local mazda stealership quoted me $300 and said they only have a spot in 5 weeks!!! Will take it to the many good indies in the area, but they are not as close as the mazda.

My question was how to talk to the lot guy to arrange for the test in a 40min drive away place. Do I just ask them to drive it there? Do i drive it there? what is the etiquette?

When i buy from private, I always ask the person to drive there, i arrive an hour later and hear the report, and either i drive off with the car or not.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Not every shop (in fact none who are not a rotary specialist) have the tools to properly test compression. Is there another Mazda dealer or rotary shop you can visit?

As far how to talk to the seller about it.. I mean, tell them what you want and find some way to make it work. If they want to sell the car, they will want to work it out.

silvius

Exactly what dealer quoted 300 to do a compression test? That should be between 100 and 150 and shouldn't really vary that much from dealer to dealer.