2006 rx8 were to start?!!!!
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2006 rx8 were to start?!!!!
Hey guys!I have a 06 rx8 gt. Looking for some helpful tips from people who know there ****!!!what basic mods for performance should I start off with.. I'm disappointed in the aceleration the 8 has but I still love how they loOK!!!helpful tips please!!
Take a look through the links in my sig.
Chances are something is unhealthy and/or failing with your car, so don't just ignore the new owner's thread about stuff that can go wrong. Most new owner's have no idea what a healthy 8 should feel like, so blithly ignore problems that cost them huge bucks later on, or shock them with the difference when they finally get healthy. Example? You can lose 28whp just from having old coils, wires, and plugs. Got your attention yet?
Chances are something is unhealthy and/or failing with your car, so don't just ignore the new owner's thread about stuff that can go wrong. Most new owner's have no idea what a healthy 8 should feel like, so blithly ignore problems that cost them huge bucks later on, or shock them with the difference when they finally get healthy. Example? You can lose 28whp just from having old coils, wires, and plugs. Got your attention yet?
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(after it is warmed up) ...
are you flooring it to redline? (more appropriate question is how do you drive it?)
mt or auto?
the old rule back when I was part of the FC3S crowd (2nd gen RX7) was to never go below 3k rpm :p Back then, I'd drive around town in 2nd quite a bit and always felt reasonably quick, and the 8 is comparable.
It won't feel like a 6.0L Pontiac GTO in a straight line, think more Civic Si VTECH (200 hp) high rpm hp curve.
Your basic mods should be basic maintenance. Oil, plugs, air filter ... on an 06, -ignition coils- most likely.
Basically what RIWWP said and you'll find in their sig links.
What kind of acceleration are you expecting? What are you experiencing? What are you comparing it to?
More descriptive the better imo
are you flooring it to redline? (more appropriate question is how do you drive it?)
mt or auto?
the old rule back when I was part of the FC3S crowd (2nd gen RX7) was to never go below 3k rpm :p Back then, I'd drive around town in 2nd quite a bit and always felt reasonably quick, and the 8 is comparable.
It won't feel like a 6.0L Pontiac GTO in a straight line, think more Civic Si VTECH (200 hp) high rpm hp curve.
Your basic mods should be basic maintenance. Oil, plugs, air filter ... on an 06, -ignition coils- most likely.
Basically what RIWWP said and you'll find in their sig links.
What kind of acceleration are you expecting? What are you experiencing? What are you comparing it to?
More descriptive the better imo
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Take a look through the links in my sig.
Chances are something is unhealthy and/or failing with your car, so don't just ignore the new owner's thread about stuff that can go wrong. Most new owner's have no idea what a healthy 8 should feel like, so blithly ignore problems that cost them huge bucks later on, or shock them with the difference when they finally get healthy. Example? You can lose 28whp just from having old coils, wires, and plugs. Got your attention yet?
Chances are something is unhealthy and/or failing with your car, so don't just ignore the new owner's thread about stuff that can go wrong. Most new owner's have no idea what a healthy 8 should feel like, so blithly ignore problems that cost them huge bucks later on, or shock them with the difference when they finally get healthy. Example? You can lose 28whp just from having old coils, wires, and plugs. Got your attention yet?
Huh?
I can't makes sense of what you are trying to tell me. Can you try again, with some different words, perhaps in complete sentances? Not trying to bash you, just if you want some help, you might want to make sure that we understand you.
I can't makes sense of what you are trying to tell me. Can you try again, with some different words, perhaps in complete sentances? Not trying to bash you, just if you want some help, you might want to make sure that we understand you.
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OK few questions to start!! do u always rev the engine to 3000-4000 rpms on turn off???next off the line seems like once I floor it takes 4 seconds to really start going it is a automatic and also stock! but I always try to shift at7000-7500 when getting on it.
New owner's thread: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533729
RX-8s will always feel slow off the line, and automatic RX-8s even more so, because it's a noticeable power drop vs the manual. It's part of how a small engine that doesn't make any torque down low will always struggle to accelerate a 3,000lb car.
So it's hard to tell if you actually have anything wrong.
Did you get a compression test to ensure the engine is healthy? Are you sure the ignition is healthy and working correctly? Is the e-shaft sensor and MAF clean? battery connections clean and secure?
You might have to meet up with another local member to see if your expectations are really all that far off. You can pick up around 30hp just from selling your automatic and buying a manual, but it's still going to be slow off the line
How do I shut off an RX-8? (re-write)
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
So it's hard to tell if you actually have anything wrong.
Did you get a compression test to ensure the engine is healthy? Are you sure the ignition is healthy and working correctly? Is the e-shaft sensor and MAF clean? battery connections clean and secure?
You might have to meet up with another local member to see if your expectations are really all that far off. You can pick up around 30hp just from selling your automatic and buying a manual, but it's still going to be slow off the line
If you want more serious power, sell it and get a manual, then turbo it. Don't waste your money on stupid exhaust, intake etc. for now you could just do suspension and wheels to get it looking good.
No do not rev at all when shutting down... just turn it off normally.
The 8's powerband is up high, so off the line it's not gunna be that quick. Get it up to 5-8k rpm and she's lotsa fun! Besides, she's built for the curves, not the straight aways!
The 8's powerband is up high, so off the line it's not gunna be that quick. Get it up to 5-8k rpm and she's lotsa fun!
Besides, she's built for the curves, not the straight aways!
New owner's thread: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533729
RX-8s will always feel slow off the line, and automatic RX-8s even more so, because it's a noticeable power drop vs the manual. It's part of how a small engine that doesn't make any torque down low will always struggle to accelerate a 3,000lb car.
So it's hard to tell if you actually have anything wrong.
Did you get a compression test to ensure the engine is healthy? Are you sure the ignition is healthy and working correctly? Is the e-shaft sensor and MAF clean? battery connections clean and secure?
You might have to meet up with another local member to see if your expectations are really all that far off. You can pick up around 30hp just from selling your automatic and buying a manual, but it's still going to be slow off the line
RX-8s will always feel slow off the line, and automatic RX-8s even more so, because it's a noticeable power drop vs the manual. It's part of how a small engine that doesn't make any torque down low will always struggle to accelerate a 3,000lb car.
So it's hard to tell if you actually have anything wrong.
Did you get a compression test to ensure the engine is healthy? Are you sure the ignition is healthy and working correctly? Is the e-shaft sensor and MAF clean? battery connections clean and secure?
You might have to meet up with another local member to see if your expectations are really all that far off. You can pick up around 30hp just from selling your automatic and buying a manual, but it's still going to be slow off the line
Listen to RIWWP he's knows his stuff! Read his sig links they are a wealth of knowledge. Should be mandatory reading!
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Thanks guys Very helpful!! it's sad that the mechanics at Mazda are **** lol they are always like boy u better rev on turn off!this just always seemed bad but since I have been doing that when I start the 8 it also takes a few seconds to crank. is this because of the rev turn off i have been doing?Or Mybe just a new starter!
Yes, dealer techs are usually talking out of their *** when they give rotary advice. They typically don't know any more about rotaries than an other shop mechanic. Rare techs are out there, but it isn't typical.
Longer cranking times both hot and cold is an issue with the battery and/or starter. Longer hot than cold is a problem with engine compression. Longer cold than hot is a problem with a coolant seal failure, oil control ring failure, or more severe battery failure.
There are other rarer reasons, so focus on those ones first.
Longer cranking times both hot and cold is an issue with the battery and/or starter. Longer hot than cold is a problem with engine compression. Longer cold than hot is a problem with a coolant seal failure, oil control ring failure, or more severe battery failure.
There are other rarer reasons, so focus on those ones first.
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OK really appreciate it Riwwp!! so I definitely not trying to make it a race car but I want to put a cold air.intake on it even though the gains are small and also if like to put an eexhaust on it what do u recomend? just want it to sound a little meaner! I do like the sound it puts off though Very unique!
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