2005 RX-8 engine/transmission swap.
#1
2005 RX-8 engine/transmission swap.
I recently got a 2005 RX-8 automatic 4 speed. (Grand touring I believe.)
When I first looked at the car it was listed as a 6 speed manual. I drove 3 hours away to the dealership only to find out it was an automatic. Obviously I still bought it. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if its possible to put a 6 speed manual transmission in my RX-8.
Thanks.
When I first looked at the car it was listed as a 6 speed manual. I drove 3 hours away to the dealership only to find out it was an automatic. Obviously I still bought it. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if its possible to put a 6 speed manual transmission in my RX-8.
Thanks.
#3
Sorry if I wasnt clear, but will a 6 speed manual fit?
My engine isn't the original and was probably replaced during the "bad engine scare"
Really I just want to know if I would have to do any chassis or body work to make it fit.
My engine isn't the original and was probably replaced during the "bad engine scare"
Really I just want to know if I would have to do any chassis or body work to make it fit.
#6
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I'll give you a limited insight, Matt.
It's possible, it's even doable. It's been done by both mechanic shops and amateurs. You need a donor car, it isn't just a bolt up transmission swap. The six speed transmission came installed with a slightly different engine, and by necessity, a different computer. There were also intake manifold, fuel delivery and wiring differences. So you need a donor car, and you transplant the computers, the engine, transmission, clutch assembly, and if you want, the dash gauge cluster. You can run your existing cluster, it will just read a little different.
All that being said, unless you have a big garage, a lot of time and money, I would leave it alone.
It's possible, it's even doable. It's been done by both mechanic shops and amateurs. You need a donor car, it isn't just a bolt up transmission swap. The six speed transmission came installed with a slightly different engine, and by necessity, a different computer. There were also intake manifold, fuel delivery and wiring differences. So you need a donor car, and you transplant the computers, the engine, transmission, clutch assembly, and if you want, the dash gauge cluster. You can run your existing cluster, it will just read a little different.
All that being said, unless you have a big garage, a lot of time and money, I would leave it alone.
#9
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Hang on to the car, treat it right, and it will reward you. Read the new owner threads. Do the preventative maintenance. This car isn't built around straight line speed, it's about handling. It can carry speed into a corner like nothing you have ever driven before. Give it a chance before you decide to spend a pile of money and rip it's guts out.
#10
I have read most of them already, I was hoping to put a turbo on my car but I know it requires a 6 speed manual most of the times. One of the many reasons I was looking into the switch. I guess I came into the RX-8 world a little late. Now I'm awaiting what Mazda has to bring in the future. Im really hoping for a new RX-7/RX-9.
But so far I am in love with the ride and feel of my 8 and hope it will last me a few years.
But so far I am in love with the ride and feel of my 8 and hope it will last me a few years.
#11
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A turbo does not require a six speed manual.
I currently have one on my 2005 automatic. ShellDude ran one on his automatic. As did 09Factor. It can be done!
In fact, the original Greddy kit included a block off plate to prevent the air going into the auxiliary intake ports (it's what separates your engine from a six speed: they have more intakes and can rev higher).
I currently have one on my 2005 automatic. ShellDude ran one on his automatic. As did 09Factor. It can be done!
In fact, the original Greddy kit included a block off plate to prevent the air going into the auxiliary intake ports (it's what separates your engine from a six speed: they have more intakes and can rev higher).
#15
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I bought it from a vendor here. It's a kit he developed and sold. How much did it cost?
Turbo kit 3999
Oil pan (more capacity, and it is a heat sink 399
Radiator (turbo means more power, more heat) 599
Cobb accessport (allows you to reprogram the computer) 400
Lots of other things I didn't really need......priceless
Used Greddy kits show up about once a month. Buy that, send it off to get rebuilt and water cooled.( a must!). Then, the sky is the limit. The highest power automatic guys are 270 hp at the tires, and they haven't destroyed the transmission yet. It needs different fluid, and you can't just beat on it, but the automatic transmission is a lot more stout than it is given credit for.
Turbo kit 3999
Oil pan (more capacity, and it is a heat sink 399
Radiator (turbo means more power, more heat) 599
Cobb accessport (allows you to reprogram the computer) 400
Lots of other things I didn't really need......priceless
Used Greddy kits show up about once a month. Buy that, send it off to get rebuilt and water cooled.( a must!). Then, the sky is the limit. The highest power automatic guys are 270 hp at the tires, and they haven't destroyed the transmission yet. It needs different fluid, and you can't just beat on it, but the automatic transmission is a lot more stout than it is given credit for.
#17
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You name it, they can change it. Basically you change the air/fuel tables to accommodate the larger amount of air that a turbo can push into the engine (forced induction) and you have to squirt in more fuel in order to use that air effectively. This is referred to as a "tune" or "flashing the computer". The Cobb AP is the older, more popular way. Another product exists, called MazdaEdit. They both edit the same information, and both required a skilled programmer to maximize their potential.
You can also change fan activation temperature, disable check engine lights, increase oil injection rates. There are many many options, and we have yet to fully understand them all. The information comes out in the form of a table of numbers. A skilled tuner knows what tables to look for, and can interpret the values. It isn't as simple as Microsoft Excel, unfortunately.
You can also change fan activation temperature, disable check engine lights, increase oil injection rates. There are many many options, and we have yet to fully understand them all. The information comes out in the form of a table of numbers. A skilled tuner knows what tables to look for, and can interpret the values. It isn't as simple as Microsoft Excel, unfortunately.
#18
The reason I ask is because if I run my 8 for a long while it starts struggling to idle and it used to die before I replaced countless parts due to poor maintaince from the previous 4 owners.
I was hoping for something like bring able to change the idle rpm.
I was hoping for something like bring able to change the idle rpm.
#19
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To answer the question, yes, idle rpm can be changed. However, idle instability is a symptom, not a cause.
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum
#20
Do all Mazda dealers still do compression tests?
And the idle isn't really unstable.
When I first got the car if you floored it at a stop it would kill it and take forever to start up again.
After changing the coils, plugs, wires, MAF, and all 3 solnoids it seemed to be better.
70000 miles and up until me owning it i don't think the previous owners replaced anything.
The idle just dips to about 500 rpm when you apply the gas too fast from a stop after running for a while. So Im unsure if its flooding the engine at that point or the compression is horrible since it was replaced during the engine scare.
Again I haven't done a compression test yet.
Also Im really unsure of the placement of the EES, the O2O sensor and the cat.
And the idle isn't really unstable.
When I first got the car if you floored it at a stop it would kill it and take forever to start up again.
After changing the coils, plugs, wires, MAF, and all 3 solnoids it seemed to be better.
70000 miles and up until me owning it i don't think the previous owners replaced anything.
The idle just dips to about 500 rpm when you apply the gas too fast from a stop after running for a while. So Im unsure if its flooding the engine at that point or the compression is horrible since it was replaced during the engine scare.
Again I haven't done a compression test yet.
Also Im really unsure of the placement of the EES, the O2O sensor and the cat.
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