Hey! So I’m really really new to all of this, at least physically, I’ve been researching rotaries for the past couple months and have wanted an rx8 basically since I’ve been into cars, but recently I finally purchased an 04 6speed with low compression, I was under the assumption that the car at least tried to start, but after finally getting a new battery in it, whenever I try to start the car all the radio lights go off and the AC resets, basically everything in the center console turns off then back on again. I can include a video if needed, I was told the ignition wires, spark plugs, and starter were replaced as well. Would anyone have a clue to what is going on?

 

First welcome!

Next if you haven't done so read the new owners thread, then re-read it about 12 times! no really read this!

Make sure the battery terminals are nice a tight. Check all the fuses/relays.
Have you done anything to address the low compression issue?

 

Alright ill read it as soon as I get the chance, but with the low compression issue I'm not sure exactly what it is, I'm guessing just the apex seals but I wont truly know until I take the engine apart. I already have new Coolant seals and am waiting to buy new apex seals + springs, side seals + springs, and corner seals + springs but I want to actually see what's wrong with the engine before dropping possibly $700 for everything. I'm very new to all of this like I said, just turned 19 and have no experience working on cars in general other than changing oil and tires so tips would be greatly appreciated

 

Well getting a compression test for yourself is a good start.
Check the battery with a multi meter to make sure its good
But certainly sounds like a relay or fuse ,( provided battery terminals are tight ) start with your 30amp fuses under the hood

 

The battery has been replaced with a $200 battery cause when I first got the car it had a refurbished battery that wouldn't even charge, all the electronics seem to work besides obviously starting the car, I've noticed after trying to start it a couple times the actual ignition fuse is hot which I'm not sure is normal? I looked in to it and some said yes some said no but I have no idea, the actual starter under the car I was told had been replaced too along with all the ignition wires, coils, and spark plugs so I'm not sure what else it could be other than maybe the fuses or relays. I might get another compression test, but the person who sold me the car said they had gotten one and it just "had low compression" so I'm not sure if it would be worth it to spend more to get another test done

 

Don't rebuild your engine. It's not just replacing seals and gaskets, if your big parts are worn through you'll spend more replacing them than a replacement engine from Mazda or a qualified rebuilder.

Since it's not even trying to start, we don't yet know if it has compression problems. Can you pull start it? Does the engine rotate at all? Given the radio and a/c dropout you're seeing, the problem is probably electrical.

 

Yeah I know a lot more goes into rebuilding the engine than just seals and gaskets and stuff, if anything is wrong with the rotors themselves or the housings, maybe too much carbon build up, I might as well just save up for a new engine, I am not sure though, the car itself says it has 85,000 which is usually when apex seals blow but on the title the miles are listed as EXEMPT so I wont ever really know how many miles the engine has. I was also planning on getting the engine hopefully bridge ported + semi PP ported anyways so taking the engine apart and seeing any issues it has is just a process along the way. But to both of your questions, I haven't tried to pull start it, nor have I checked/ know HOW to check if the engine rotates, I'm hoping sometime in the next couple days I can go out and buy new fuses and relays to replace any missing/suspected to be blown from the fuse box, but that's about as far as I've gotten troubleshooting wise.

 

To check if the engine rotates put a 19mm socket on the lower pulley bolt that will spin the engine

 

I'd also pull the spark plugs to see what they tell you about the last time it ran. Metal bits, soot, oil, coolant, gas on the spark plug are all clues.

Don't bridge port, that doesn't apply here unless you enjoy annual engine replacements for no benefit.

 

Alright if I get the time today ill check the spark plugs and replace the fuses and relays and update you guys, I also will try and see if the engine itself rotates. The main reason I'd want to bridge port would be since I cant afford Peripheral Porting fully, or even Semi PP porting at that matter, compared to bridge porting. I know its definitely unreliable though so you're probably right on not bridge porting. At most ill try and street port if anything at all, really depends on my budget and the time frame I have.

 

Alright I messed around with the Relays, unfortunately destroying 2 of them in the process but it led to this video here

 

Are you trying to start the car without pressing the clutch? You need to press the clutch to release the clutch safety switch.

 

In the video I did not push the clutch in, but I just went out and tried to start the car while pushing the clutch in and the same thing happened

 

Have you checked the clutch safety swich then? Maybe it's stuck closed. It's been known to happen.

 

I have not but I'll look into it right now

 

You were right and the car tries to start now! After messing with the plunger a bit when I push the clutch in and turn the key it actually does try to start, I can't fully try and start it yet because not all fuses/relays are back in the car and the engine is missing a belt + I still have no idea what's actually wrong with said engine but this is progress.

One last major issue though is when I DO turn the car over and it tries to start, all the lights in the car go off and the car somewhat resets, would that be due to the battery itself not being charged enough? I haven't charged it yet and the alternator obviously doesn't run, so I'm guessing the engine doesn't have enough power at the moment to fully try and turn over?

 

Running down the battery will do it, but don't all key-start cars drop accessory power when trying to start? I can't think of a car I've had that doesn't do it. Turning the key out of ON to START guarantees that.

 

I would imagine so? I know it takes a decent bit of power to start the car, but it really depends if the lights come back on after the engine starts which I can't really test at the moment, once I get the other belt on the engine and make sure the fuses and relays are all working ill try and actually start the car and see what happens, thank you so much for the help so far thought! I'll continue to update this as I go