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That split in the rubber accordeon piece, where it fits over the throttle body, in the first picture, may cause you a vacuum leak and poor idle. Consider replacing the accordeon piece.
Ditto for the random open hose clamped to the upper intake manifold, just above the yellow oil fill cap in the first picture. What happened here? :/
Ok put new MAV in and after some weird idling, it started idling fine. Let it idle for awhile in it started smoking out the tailpipe again. After a few more minutes i switched it to drive and it stalled immediately and would not start again. After cooling down it usually starts. I put whole weekend into. Im just gonna park it into storage. If i cant fix it its gonna be a minute before i can tow it to mazda just for a compression check. Any suggestions?
Yeah I know it doesn't move with rpms, but it's not just an on/off gauge. It has some variation to it. I thought it was a dummy gauge too, until I saw my buddies car. That's a 2004 Mazdaspeed RX8. No idea why it's higher than normal though
The gauge is a joke. You can tell because the actual oil pressure sensor part (N3H1-18-501 for S1) is a pressure switch rather than a transducer.
Also if you hook directly to the gauge cluster via the CAN bus the dial only has two positions, Off and On, somewhere in the middleish. It's a physical limitation of the gauge cluster, as well as a limitation of the sensor itself. So the idea that it's an actual gauge of anything is pretty much BS.
did you find out if it was definitely coolant seals mine is smoke just as much as #2 starts warm no issues but my coolant level hasnt gone down and I can't find anything wet or dripping anywhere on the car
OK I have a huge issue with my 2009 Mazda RX8I just had the slave cylinder replaced And the mechanic nicked the wiring harness for the EGI comp one Circuit now it is smoking like crazy and using oil any recommendations... we found the short to ground and fixed it but now is smoking like crazy with no cels.
I also have the similar problem, maybe someone can help me with this. When I cold start the car a very thick white smoke comes out for 1-2 mins. It is just as thick as in post #2. Cant tell if its sweet or not. Smells like unburned fuel to me. But after some time and when its in operating temp smoke is gone.
I have the following mods:
1. gutted cat
2. SOHN adapter (Have Motul 710)
3. Premixing with Motul 800
4. BHR coils
5. aftermarket coolant radiator
About coolant - cant check the limit. I think it is because of radioator (maybe bigger capacity or something), cuz when I pour the right amount after 1 hour drive (with occasional 9k rpm of course) covers are covered with coolant (I suppose its spitted out because too much coolant in the system?).
Engine was rebuilt 2000km ago. Compression is good, starts when hot with no problems.
Please help me! Is it a broken coolant seal? Or maybe something else? If its an engine rebuild, can I just change coolant seals? Or proper rebuild only?
If you have a broken coolant seal and its a micro leak, purchase a bag of LEAD POWDER (The metal). Put 1 Table spoon in the radiation. (DO NOT USE RADIATOR STOP LEAKS, they clog the system and cause more trouble than they are worth)
You need to use lead as it is a soft metal. The small pieces of lead will slowly clog the leak internally (if it is a smaller leak). This is in my opinion is the best way to fix small internal engine leaks. Lead powder is also safer for the engine and bearings of the water pump.
Last edited by finalturismo; Dec 13, 2019 at 10:34 AM.
If you have a broken coolant seal and its a micro leak, purchase a bag of LEAD POWDER (The metal). Put 1 Table spoon in the radiation. (DO NOT USE RADIATOR STOP LEAKS, they clog the system and cause more trouble than they are worth)
You need to use lead as it is a soft metal. The small pieces of lead will slowly clog the leak internally (if it is a smaller leak). This is in my opinion is the best way to fix small internal engine leaks. Lead powder is also safer for the engine and bearings of the water pump.
I assume you also change the coolant after? Having lead sand running through the system sounds abrasive on the soft aluminium engine metals. Also a catalyst poison.
I assume you also change the coolant after? Having lead sand running through the system sounds abrasive on the soft aluminium engine metals. Also a catalyst poison.
lol at the catalyst poison, just gave me a new idea for road rage.
Ya best to drain, but if you only add a small amount i don't think you need to.
Many of the car stop leak products use copper, but lead is a softer metal and your not putting all the junk in your system that the manufactures add to their product.
Just a good solution for people with a small internal coolant leak that don't want to rebuild right away.
Lead is also used as a lubricant on very hard metals , that's why it it used in diesel fuel
Might cause a little extra wear on water pump and radiator i would think, but nothing too significant.
Last edited by finalturismo; Dec 13, 2019 at 12:23 PM.
