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{WTB} WTB manual RX8

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Old 10-29-2022, 11:58 PM
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WTB manual RX8

WTB manual RX8 with a decent body. Minor scrapes/ dings not a concern.
compression test numbers must be available.
Doesnt matter what year. Should be able to pass emissions. Live in NoVA, I also cant deal with the catless smell(i guess I’m past that stage of life lol) Looking to build a track car.
Thanks
RD
Old 10-30-2022, 12:29 PM
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For the track you'll be running catless, I'd make it a point to figured out which series you want as well for whatever track setup you're looking for. If you need to tune the ECU and want to use what Racing Beat sells.. then you'll need to stick with a 2004-2008 "series 1". Also FWIW.. there are a few or have been a few already built setups sold recently. Buying something that's already been built is a lot cheaper than building it from the ground up yourself.
Old 10-30-2022, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ritzzzzzwik
WTB manual RX8 with a decent body. Minor scrapes/ dings not a concern.
compression test numbers must be available.
Doesnt matter what year. Should be able to pass emissions. Live in NoVA, I also cant deal with the catless smell(i guess I’m past that stage of life lol) Looking to build a track car.
Thanks
RD
I would also suggest being open to the possibility of buying a car with a blown engine with everything else otherwise in good shape. You could buy one for cheap then put in a newly rebuilt engine and know the history of that engine. You could also get a better build with proper modifications to address factory deficiencies. In that case you would probably want to address some other supporting wear items to assure the new engine gets proper support cooling and lubrication support.

Of course you should pay much less for that car than if it would have a good engine. I bought my 2004 RX-8 M/T in 2007 with 25k miles so that’s not what I did. However, given the age of what’s now out there, If I was buying an RX-8 these days that’s what I would do. Maybe it’s not the right option for you, but it’s something to consider especially if you can do the engine replacement yourself or know someone who can.

And second going catless. It will be more of a headache trying to keep a cat on the car especially if tracking. Even normal driving (the way you are supposed to drive the RX-8) will clog your cat eventually especially if you have an ignition failure down the road.

Last edited by schm1347; 10-30-2022 at 07:02 PM.
Old 10-31-2022, 12:17 AM
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no it won’t, you just have to pay the price for a cat that can take the heat and provide the flow. About $1000 the last time I checked.
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Old 10-31-2022, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
no it won’t, you just have to pay the price for a cat that can take the heat and provide the flow. About $1000 the last time I checked.
.
Out of curiosity, what do you run for an HJS cat and does that fit easily on an aftermarket BHR midpipe or the like? As I am aware they have tuning and racing cats (do you know those models offhand?). Do either models have trouble fitting underneath?

Do you have long term experience how they hold up for street and track use?

Last edited by schm1347; 10-31-2022 at 11:09 AM.
Old 10-31-2022, 06:41 PM
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I ran a super hi-flow 400 cpi race cat for several years, now in another RX8 for several years and still going the last I heard:


No. 90 95 0050


.

.
I had several years on another 400cpi one previously, then sold it to a guy with a turbo RX8 when I moved the car back to the Stock class. Never heard anything from him though.


but for a street car you can use a 200 cpi instead

No. 90 95 0085-HD


.

.



you’ll most likely need to order it from Germany though

and you may need to add a bung for the rear O2 depending on how it lays out

the biggest factor will be oil burning, a high OMP rate or heavy premix might foul it sooner, supposedly you might be able to defoul it being metallic, no experience with that though.
.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-31-2022 at 06:51 PM.
Old 10-31-2022, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
the biggest factor will be oil burning, a high OMP rate or heavy premix might foul it sooner, supposedly you might be able to defoul it being metallic, no experience with that though.
.
I suppose you could pull it off periodically, inspect, and if dirty run some type of degreaser through it or maybe just detergent? I would think that should clean out any oil fouling?
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