Last week, at 96,000 miles, I started hearing a rumbling noise when I'd start the car, with a rough idle, but it smoothed out while driving. On just the second or third day of this, the engine light came on and stayed on. The dealership said new plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, oil change for $2800, and if there were still problems after that, engine replacement. Compression was still low after the new parts, so they ordered and got a new heart for my baby. (Then came the call about new engine mounts and clutch hose, too, $348 for the first and free for the second.)

I'm dying over the idea of $3148, but considering I'd be out of warranty in 4,000 more miles, I'm choosing to look at this as a good thing that it happened now instead of in 5,000 more miles since I've always planned to keep the car until I'm buried in it. I'm afraid, though, that it'll never feel the same, I can't believe it'll be as good as it always has been.

Anybody else been through this, and what was your result? Also, tips on how to break in the new engine? No redlining for a while, I'm sure.

Thanks for any pointers

 

Hey dude seriously hit me up asap i can probably help you out with this and save you some money, i got some people in good places, i was going threw something just like you and i just got my new engine i have about 1k miles on it and im still taking it easy on the engine since they told me not to rev it pass 6k rpm till i get to 2k miles....

 

Both of my rotaries have new engines. You'll notice differences, but you won't be let down.

 

$3,100 would have gotten you an engine rebuild from a reputable builder rather than a reman Best midpipe out there for $500, Ignition for $200. Even $2,400 would have gotten you a solid rebuild from RR I believe.

 

TONS of people have been through this, you're surely not alone.

My guess is, it's not the time to give her advice on how she could have saved money.

For the future life of your new motor Stenobeth, be sure to read the threads about rotary upkeep. You'll want this one to last at least as long as your first one did, but if you don't follow the rules of rotary ownership, it won't. Things like, checking oil levels constantly, changing coils/ plugs/ wires regularly, premix in your gas tank, rev regularly to clear carbon build-up, ...

Enjoy!

 

[My guess is, it's not the time to give him advice on how he could have saved money.

Thank you, you're reading my mind! lol

For the future life of your new motor Stenobeth, be sure to read the threads about rotary upkeep. You'll want this one to last at least as long as your first one did, but if you don't follow the rules of rotary ownership, it won't. Things like, checking oil levels constantly, changing coils/ plugs/ wires regularly, premix in your gas tank, rev regularly to clear carbon build-up, ...

Enjoy![/QUOTE]

Ok, sounds good, thanks. I got lazy with the premix, but I redline regularly, always have and always will... it's my antidepressant. haha I slipped up with not realizing how often I needed to change coils, plugs, wires, but now I know. Thanks again

PS to this and other posts, just fyi... I'm a girl.

 

LOL, i just watched that video. I'm quite near Doylestown if you ever need any help.

 

Chris, thanks, that's great! As soon as I can sell my place in NJ I'm moving up near Doylestown somewhere. Maybe we can get some meets together. There's some nice areas for runs up there

 

Ooops, sorry. Corrected

Thanks for making mention of the video. I missed that in the sig.

Cool spins beth. Everyone knows Velocity Red spins best!

 

Pay them 1 hour of labor ($70?) to independently do a compression/vacuum test - if it fails, you need a new engine. That's the only criterion for engine replacement, as far as i understand. If it passes, then you probably need all that other stuff anyway.

No need to spend $3000.

 

It gets worse... I was supposed to pick up the car today. Instead I got a call that the shutter valve was bad, they tried to clean it but couldn't, so the engine light was still coming on after all the other stuff. Add $600 to the bill and two-three more days without my car.

Just shoot me now.

 

Ouch! I believe they may be taking advantage of your purse.

 

Yeah, believe me, I thought so too. But then I googled it, and I read that it's a common problem for the shutter valve to be gunked up with carbon and dead around 88,000 miles (I had 96,000), and it quoted $800 to replace it, which I was told $600 plus then they worked on the price with me a little bit. I'm probably taken sometimes in this situation, for sure, but I'm not sure what else I can do about that....