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if you have low compression you have two choices. a quality rebuild or a factory mazda reman. are you sure its compression? did you get a ROTARY SPECIFIC COMPRESSION TEST? it will have 7#s a reading for each rotor face and the cranking rpm. a little more info on your car would help. where in ny? im in ne pa
Step 2) Please post using proper grammar and punctuation. Use complete sentences and let us know clearly whats wrong. We cant help you if we cant understand half of what you are saying.
Step 3) I already see things that to me at least are red flags, but we will cross that bridge when we get there. First thing is first make sure the oil level is good, make sure the battery is strong, go pick up a battery charger because you will be trying to start the car A LOT while you are fixing it and will need something to keep the battery fully charged. What tools do you have? How comfortable are you working on a car, do you have any experience?
Cold start problems are usually caused by a weak battery or ignition components, so I would check those first. Your engine could also be flooded, as mentioned, from the previous failed attempts at starting.
Originally Posted by Loki
What is the actual problem?
Why is there a little filter under the strut brace on the driver's side? There's nothing that that needs filtering :s
Don't some catch can systems have little filters like that?
I mean yes, but I don't see how you'd fit a catch can in there. Also is that another catch can to the left of the intake pipe? With a tube going in and not one coming out? That hood picture is like one of those "find 10 differences" puzzles. :/
Im having some issues with all 3 solenoids right now and o2 sensor its saying that that curcuit low ik its a wire somewhere that has to be touching because i replace all of them and im still having the issue of not being able to rev past 4500 (revs slowly) but im trying to figure out where is the common ground for them ive checked the ground on both sides of engine. Also fuses and wiring and wires under fuse box seems fine starting to think ecu went also key fuse kept blowing. But some how stopped blowing
Please post using proper grammar and punctuation. Use complete sentences and let us know clearly what's wrong. We can't help you if we can't understand half of what you are saying.
Step 1: Follow Xero's request above! Break up your thoughts into coherent sentences so we know what you mean. Use punctuation. It was invented for good reasons!
Step 2: Tell us what the car can do. From your original post, it sounded like it wouldn't run. From this post, and the temps in your scan tool's output, it sounds like it does run. Tell us how well it runs, and in what ways it doesn't seem right (if any). Are you just nervous about its condition, or can you immediately tell there are problems?
I don't know anything about the two throttle position sensor codes, but perhaps some of the other guys who are experts can fill you in on those. The RPM being high is probably not a big deal if the engine just started up. The emissions stuff can wait until later.
Fill us in on the facts as requested above, and then see if you can find someone who can do a rotary-specific compression test. If the engine runs, the compression test will tell you its rough level of health internally.
Odds are, you'll find the problem if you follow the steps on those pages. Both TPS share a common connection to the PCM (pin C on both connect to 2F on the PCM). I'd start by checking for continuity between those pins. Keep in mind that the diagrams provided in the FSM are for the pins on the PCM and throttle body so the pins you need to test on the wire harness will be the mirror image of those diagrams.
I would like to add that the tank's you have on the left hand side of the for windshield washer fluid and the 2 stroke oil for the engine should never be that low, it's gravity fed and I think it should never be below 1/2 from the bottom or it doesn't have a whole lot of presser for helping fed the oil.
The info that comes with a Sohn adapter says that the reservoir needs to be at least 6" above the OMP. I have a feeling the nipple on the bottom of the Epitrochoid res is that far above.
Its very hard to help when your posts are a wall of text with no sort of coherent organization to the information provided.
Breaking your posts down I can tell you your problem is either your fuel pump or your engine. Probably your engine though. Get a rotary specific compression test done, make sure the engine is fully warmed up when it gets done, and youll get an idea of if its worth fixing for you if its something you can afford. And let me warn you, its going to be a big bill for a replacement engine and buying a used one with your very limited mechanical knowledge is literally just throwing money away. You need a Mazda reman engine or get a rebuild done by a very reputable engine builder in your area, and expect to spend at least $5k by the time everything is all said and done.
