tudazwoman

Can anyone recommend a GOOD Mazda repairman in Northern VA (Tysons)? Dlr has had my car almost 2 weeks when the PS went out. First they tried the connectors (no luck) now they're saying I need a new rack AND power steering computer module...I sense I'm being taken big time but I have no recourse. Can anyone suggest a good Mazda-savvy repairman? Thank you

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

I've been taking my 8 to Browns Chantilly Mazda and so far they have been good to me. The tech guys have been very straight forward with questions I ask, they don't give me BS stuff to try and get $$$ out of me.

They are probably the best dealership I have ever dealt with.

Mazurfer

I would at least take it to another dealer for a check out.

There have been people where cleaning the connectors didn't solve the issue and they had to replace the whole wiring harness, or bypass the connectors by splicing/solder the wires. And....of course a few others where the rack or thge module did have to be replaced.

I'm not saying this would solve your issue, but it might be good to have another opinion.
Rosenthal Mazda(in Arlington on Glebe) is a vendor here and Tommy who is/was the parts manager is a great guy. I don't know about the rest of the dealership, but it might say a little bit given that Tommy knows his stuff.

I know Arlington is a little bit of a drive as my daughter drives from Arlington to McLean every day, but no matter what...............try to get somewhere else to look at it.

What year is your car?
Is it still under warranty perhaps?

Seems like BigBacon might have a good lead on a dealership and some persoanl experience, so that might obviously be a better choice unless others pipe in.

tudazwoman

I really, really appreciate your response. Problem is that the car's in a ROSENTHAL Mazda/Tysons dealership and I would think the ROSENTHAL Arlington would give me the same static, don't you think?

Mazurfer

I really don't know that answer, but I guess I would be inclined to NOT take it there then given they are probably pretty closely linked. That's the only advice I could give you at this point.

Let me ask you this..................do you know if this car has ever overheated and you've had to have coolant/water added to the coolant bottle?
Do you have anyone besides a dealer that could try cleaning the connectors again? Maybe thety really didn't do a good job in trying or didn't really do it? I'm just saying...........it might be worth a try. There are threads on here showing where the connectors are and how best to clean. If it's a possibility for you, then I'll link those pics and info in to this thread.
I see Jon316G is in here now, so let's see what he says!

tudazwoman

MAZURFER/BigBacon: PS, of course warranty just went out on something like this -- it's a 2006. Think I'll take it where I bought it in another area. Thanks again for your kind comments.

Mazurfer

Alright...............you're welcome.
Try to remember to update this if/when you get it fixed and let us know.........or if you have any other questions.

tudazwoman

Promise--I want you to know that I take immaculate care of this car & it burns my britches that the dlr is trying to take me for a ride. Talk later and thank you again.

dmc27

Double check your paper work and purchase date. Unless you're over 60,000 miles you should be under warranty still. In 2006 we had our warranties extended from the original 4 year / 48,000 to 5 year / 60,000.

tudazwoman

Hi...thought that the extended warranty only covered power train...will do as you suggest. thank you.

dmc27

hhmmm . . . you're right. I was looking at the date info and not thinking about it enough.

Still, check your dates. Warranty starts at purchase date and expires 4 years after that. So if you bought it in the summer of 06 your bumper to bumper warranty doesn't expire until this summer.