RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

So just figured I'd put this out there for anyone in the area that might be inclined to assist.

My Miata spun a bearing a few weeks ago, and needs a new engine. I think I have one lined up from just north of Worcester, waiting on a response back from the guy, but at the moment I've got no assistance for doing the engine exchange.

I am going to start dismantling the engine bay tomorrow morning in preparation for the engine pull, and I've got an engine hoise on loan from a Zelse up in Waltham that I will probably be picking up at some point this weekend.

I'm not looking forward to doing this all myself, and would love assistance

Located in pretty much central Providence.

Will provide food and/or beer of choice to anyone willing to assist.

Timing is pretty much any time between tomorrow and the weekend following. Pretty much have to have the new engine installed by end of day on Sunday the 24th. Weather is looking pretty good for the full stretch. Once I have an engine in hand, will be taking off work for a few days to make sure it's finished.

lepichichi

iTrader: (10)

Please tell me you gonna stick a bridgeported 13B in it

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I would LOVE to. I have most of the plans on what is needed, what work needs to be done, where to source just about everything, etc...

However, I've only got about a week and a half before I NEED to have it up and running again (wife returning to work and needs a car), plus the funding for the project just isn't here right now. If I could figure out how to just store it on the side, get transportation for my wife that she won't kill me over and I can afford, then yeah, I'd just work on that direction REALLY slowly.

But, that isn't an option for me, so I have to go with just a used replacement.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Seems events, meets, etc always happen at the worst time for me. I'm busy this and next weekend, sorry mate.

BRODA

iTrader: (7)

Tough break, Mike. I hope the transplant goes smoothly. Next time, keep it below 9000 RPM, and don't wait for the "beep" to upshift

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I thought I just heard an offer of assistance?



And it was 7,000rpm, no beep, just a rattle on lift off. Something happened with the oil pickup or oil delivery from what I can tell. I've had an inkling at the back of my head that the prior owner knew this was coming. Nothing concrete though. From the sequence of events I found (too late) on Miata.net for oil delivery problems, I can trace them back to when I bought the car.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

In the backyard, plenty of room to work with, flat surface to work on, and more secure environment then my driveway

Gonna start dismantling the engine bay in the morning.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'd love to help (I can usually bang-out one of these swaps by myself in 12 hours), but I'm a bit too far away...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That's the 5th "I'd help but I'm too far" I've received between 2 forums


No worries. Still waiting on the owner of the potential engine to accept my offer. Supposedly has $1,800 put into a built head. Might be rebuilt head instead, but that's a high price for a rebuilt head. Wasn't his money, the rest of the car is in terrible condition, bought it as a parts car. Offered him $800.

WTBRotary!

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, Id help ya too Mike, but im in Texas.... lol so... :/

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

9k had the same lame excuse

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, the built motor is gone, but the guy has a 99 motor for $600 that he is pulling on Monday or Tuesday. Talked with him some more and he buys wrecked Miatas and parts them out.

Hoses and wires are all out, accessories coming out next.

lepichichi

iTrader: (10)

good luck with the swap. take pics

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I've decided that since my A/C is dead anyway, and so rarely used that the first time I tried to use it is when I found it was dead, I'm not going to be re-installing the A/C on the new engine.

Just debating about the power steering now. Tempted to take the time to depower the rack (http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php)

One less thing to re-install, no belts or attachments on that side of the engine at all then, ~50lb weight savings etc... I just don't know how much I will like it, or not. Thinking I probably will, because I think it's current PS is too overpowered, specially at highway speeds. I can feel the rear very very well, but not so much the front.


Also figured out (from looking through exhaust manifold removal instructions) that my Miata is a CA emissions spec. (2 cats, changed O2 sensor locations, robs quite a bit of power)

Going to see what I can do about correcting that at the same time. No chance that I will stay Stock Class legal anyway.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Some pics, before and during the work so far:

Tagged up as much as I could ahead of time. Tagging with tape as I go for labeling stuff.
Left side (intake)


Right side (exhaust)


Center:


Right side partly disassembled: (PS and AC are both on this side's accessory belt)


Overall


Closer

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Did you manage to con get any volunteers to help?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Of course not


I got a volunteer from Miata.net who offered his van for getting the motor (have a van already), and "I can hand tools to the people doing the work". So I passed for now unless something critical comes up.

Never did have many local friends up here, and it's too last minute for people to plan assistance.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

So, found out a few things today in my ..um...lack of progress.

1: The engine can't really be unbolted from the transmission with them still in their installation position, have to basically remove them from the power plant frame to get to all the engine/transmission bolts, and then the transmission isn't attached to anything anyway. Apparently the best way of doing this is to unbolt the PPF, slide it out of the way, remove the brake calipers and steering rack, then unbolt the entire front subframe onto a support or dolley or something, lift the front end of the car high enough to roll it out. Then basically handle everything outside the car, and then install in reverse.

2: My A/C didn't work because apparently the charge has been entirely leaked to the air. Further reinforces just deleting the whole system. I don't feel like paying to find the leak, fix it, and charge the system again, even if I wanted A/C


And found someone from Miata.net offering tools and help, which is cool. Implied he had power tools as well, which is a big plus.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Just picked up materials to build myself a quality engine/subframe dolly, and will be building it tonight. 3 wheels, 2 fixed 1 pivot, includes a brake built into the pivot wheel. Individual wheel weight rating is 225lbs, so I figure that's plenty. $40 total in materials and probably won't use all of the wooden 2x2s I bought. Will be making it solid and such, nothing flimsy. A bunch of galvanized steel bolts. Doing it right.

Planning on taking it with me to pick up the new engine, tying down the new engine to it and then it to the tie-down points in the 5, so when I get home, I can just use the engine hoist to lift it out and set it on it's wheels, roll it into the back yard. Use the excess wood to build a stationary cradle to hold it and then move the dolly under the car to hold the subframe.

I pick up the engine tomorrow night.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, replacement engine in hand, hanging on the engine hoist next to the Miata. He actually left 2 gaskets I need, 1 vacuum hose I need, the upper and lower intake manifold, and handed me a brand new water pump since his tech snapped one of the brackets off the existing water pump during the removal.

Gonna be scrubbing it down, cleaning a bunch of stuff on the engine, probably polishing a bunch of stuff then sealing with something that makes sense.

Start dropping the subframe tomorrow, or whenever the heat lets me.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Pinched a nerve in my lower back working on cleaning the new engine, so not as much progress this weekend as I wanted or hoped.

But AC completely gone (condenser, lines, and compressor), subframe almost ready to come out. currently stuck on trying to get the tie rods disconnected from the steering rack. I know I can disconnect them at the hub, but if I do that, I'd probably need new ones. Would rather disconnect them at the rack side, leaving them attached at the hubs, since they would need to come out of the rack anyway for the depower. The joint hubs are supposed to unscrew from the end of the rack, after tabs have been bent back out of the way, but having trouble finding a tool with enough gripping power on the flat sides of the joint to get it turned.

The replacement engine's intake manifold looks like it was never cleaned, far worse shape than mine, so exchanging them. Also started on replacing the water pump on the replacement engine with the brand new waterpump the engine owner provided.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Engine is still not out. Finally found a 30mm open end wrench last night to disconnect the tie rods from the steering rack. Also determined that the level of severe rust on the exhaust parts is going to mean that I will be cutting off most of the existing exhaust. So new exhaust in order.

I feel like I'm cheating to get a Jackson Racing header, downpipe, high flow cat, short pipe, and Borla catback for $350. I pick it all up tomorrow morning. And actually is from the same car that I got the replacement engine from, interestingly enough found it and started to respond before I realized it was the same guy that advertised the engine I bought.

So the last issues getting the subframe dropped appear to be solved, and it should be dropped tonight or tomorrow, depending on what the weather does.

überschnell

Wow. No WAY I would pull the subframe and all that crap--that's a major pain! Won't you need a lift to get the car high enough to roll the engine out?

Just pull the engine and trans together with a load leveler. Unbolt driveshaft from diff, pull out of trans. I think this makes the trans fluid leak everywhere, but it's been a while since I've done a Miata. Drain and replace it anyway, you'll probably tip it over and it'll pour out the shifter turret if you share my luck. Unbolt PPF, slide off to the side (probably need to support trans with a jack and use a crowbar or something for leverage).

Don't ever listen to people on m.net.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Actually, I examined both options, and with what I have, and chose this way intentionally.

1: Both methods require unbolting the PPF
2: Both methods require slipping out the drive shaft
3: I do not have a lift, however I tested and my 2 ton hoist (more than twice the weight of the car after the subframe is dropped) can lift the nose enough to roll it forward on my dolly (actually can clear it by about 2 feet)
4: I am not re-installing the power steering (never liked it, too much assist in mine, and lines heavily rusted), so I need to remove the steering rack to depower properly anyway
5: At that point, there is only 6 bolts to remove to drop the subframe
6: Pulling it out the top requires radiator removal, disassembling the distributor to clear the firewall, a tilting method of angling the engine and transmission out which I don't have


I'm convinced dropping the subframe makes the most amount of sense.


And the transmission fluid is already drained. I knew it was going to leak either way, and no idea how old it is, so new fluid will go in.




I don't listen to anyone on the internet blindly. I take what they are telling me as data points to consider and then do my own research.

überschnell

Different strokes, I guess. I would be nervous lifting the nose that high. By the way, load levelers are cheap.

You will really like the depowered rack.