Yeah - I tracked it down in the cobb thread as Revvit said. It's probably tweaked to get better gas mileage in the last 2 gears because you have to downshift anyway if you're actually looking for some power. Nobody's going to miss a couple HP at 3k rpms in 6th at WOT. That would be my guess.

 

Yeah i had tried that once and same out come. it's deff electrical some how...

 

yea like revvittupp said, each gear has a different map, i forget the reasoning behind it itll probably pop into my head tomorrow.

klepto: do you know how to pop a clutch to start a car? Not saying that to sound rude but here's what you try next time it stalls:

Car Stalls
(now dont touch the key or anything, only do what i say)
Push Clutch all the way in
Put shifter into 4th
Fully release clutch

car should jump hard and go vroom.

If that doesnt work then itll make it easier to diagnose because that means something is failing and staying failed until you turn the key off and then back on. Which means all Id have to do is plug the laptop in, datalog while cruising, make it happen, and then read through my data and see what has stopped responding.

Right now im guessing either the brake switch has a short or something OR the PCM is simply roasted.

I'll see if I can get any info out of the japanese rotary engineering team that floats around the country ( I believe theyre still in the US and possibly still on our coast, they were here 2 weeks ago discovering the same thing i discovered and no one at mazda believed me about, but thats another discussion for another time)

kevin.

 

wooooooah so when you downshifted it also stalled? i must have missed that. In all honesty you sir may be in need of a motor. unless possibly your clutch switch is whats shorting out the PCM.

man this is a ******* brain jumbler, i have to go rest my head and come back with a clearer mind. sucks that you're dealing with this.

kevin.

 

dam when i make a tech go Woooo that can only mean bad bad stuff...

new motor? jeez Good bye rotor jam.....

aight bro. Let me ask you a question. In ordere to recreat what is going on are you gonna do it on the road? if so maybe i can come and i can make it happen.

If you are doing it on a dyno or soemthing then i can recreate it there as well if it is OK w/the officials.

I'm gonna try it on ym way to wayne tomorrow. I'll be on the right lane in case i need to hit the shoulder. I'll try the whole pop it into 4th suggestion....but ive had that happen in 4th once so far and that was yesterday on my way to LI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right now this is not sounding good at all....sighs...but thanks for taking the time to try to help. i will be at wayne tomorrow I have a 930 appointment but I may be there earlier.

If it is cool w/you Im going to request you be the tech that touches the car from the start.

 

man i would like to see this thing in person but at this point your best bet is to get it hooked up to the diagnostic tool and see what's what

good luck and let us know how it goes

 

Dude good luck. Hopefully a diagnostic will find the probablem.

 

man this sucks jeff.....ill call you either from the hospitol or when i get home to see whats up....im going to wayne tomorrow too but thats for the "other" reason not service and that will be closer to night time

 

goodluck jeff.. IF i get my car back i have a open passenger seat...

 

silly 7s.. i have 3

 

if its his engine he will have a loaner car....maybe a nice minivan or something

 

Clearly the techs will have to get a more confident diagnosis.....but if they put a new motor in without trying first to just switch out the PCM (where I'm strongly guessing this problem is originating from), then that seems like a huge waste of resources....

 

so far the alternator is fried......now i guess till monday....to be continued

 

Yay driving a base A/T Mazda3....I had to drive it in triptronic. It's a nice car but deff nopt the 8.

So far my 8 has a fried alternator and then after it is rushed into surgery on Monday they willc ontinue to look for moer issues -- YAY fun stuff.

 

intake ?
remove it and try that to see if it still stalls.

 

kel he did remove it and kevin had it still stall on him when he was demo'ing the car.......

 

So it turned out to just be the alternator. The way Kevin explained it was that it wasnt providing enough volts at high loads (high speeds). Fuel delivery etc was fine. He saw that there was a voltage issue in the ABS and other electrical areas etc so he was able to figure out tit was the alternator. Im glad that is all it was.

I have to give props to Wayne Mazda for getting my car diagnosed quickly and fixed asap. They ordered my new alternator on Friday and it was transplanted on Monday.

I have to give props to Kevin the tech there (rx7 owner) for fixing my ride and not letting mazda screw me over over an optima battery.

I also have to give props to Anthony Kuhna over at the service department that took care of everything and made everything right w/my loaner situation.

Now my only issue is waiting for my body kit to come so Kenny over at East Side Collision can fix the cosmetics of the Lake of 17 incident...

 

good to hear man

 

thanks man im just glad that ordeal is over with....just want my 8 back in shape....

 

seems that all is getting better.......now just picking up where ya left off and continue modding

 

yeah gotta figure out when i can finish my suspension and do the brakes...but im not in a rush for that just want the cosmetics done ASAP

 

you need to also install the stuff you got from me.....dont be a ricer

 

oh well yeah f00l of course....but then again im following in your foot steps non functional stuff that is functional once wired up...lol

 

like father like son..

 

LMAO @ elysium. apparently youre not familiar with dealership practices, if i put a motor in and the motor wasnt the problem I'd lose my job fairly quickly.

But yea it happened on the test drive somewhat easily, speed traps were out that day, and it felt weird not really a regular type of stall.

We brought it in, plug in the computer and checked for codes, found a low voltage code in the ABS module and RCM. So obviously we started mointoring the voltage the PCM was seeing, what was being sent to the PCM etc. Turned out that at high electrical load the alternator would drop down to about 12.4V, plus the fact that it was running at 100% just to keep it at 13.8V at idle (which obviously low as well)

After figuring that out what we were able to figure out wat was happening. The alternator (and/or voltage regulator) has very high demands put on it at higher rpms/speeds basically to keep the spark strong etc. Basically with that additional load on top of the regular electrical load eventually the voltage sent to the PCM must have been dropping, most likely a rapid spike of barely any voltage, which bugged it out and forced a stall situation. You never got a charge light on or a dead battery because 90% of the time the alternator WAS working properly, just when you pushed it to the edge it couldn't handle it.

But anywho, like I said when I saw you, IF it does occur again get rid of the optima battery setup and go back to the stock battery (if you still have it, if not get a 35 Series battery with at least 640CCA (the updated battery rating)) I have afeeling that even though your cable setup is secure and shows no voltage drop that it MAY be playing a part.

Also on a side note, if I had diagnosed your car as needing a motor that day, you probably would have had your car back on tuesday, if not monday, yes we're that good. Hell Mazda3's have a 2-day turnaround, only because we have to order the motor. If we had them in stock we could do them while the cust waited.

kevin.