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Summer oil types in Hot North Texas

Old 06-15-2010, 02:15 PM
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Summer oil types in Hot North Texas

Do you guys change the viscosity of your oil for the hot Summers down here? I am running the standard 5w-20 right now but I have been thinking about adjusting that during the summer months?

What do y'all do?
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:32 PM
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I run 10w-30 all year.
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:13 PM
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:52 AM
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10W30 would work fine as would 10W40. I run only full synthetic. I have for over a decade. In 4 rotary powered cars that I've beat the crap out of, I have yet to blow up an engine.
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Old 06-17-2010, 02:36 PM
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currently using 0w40, my 3rd or 4th engine ive lost count >_>
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Old 06-17-2010, 02:54 PM
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yeah I either run 10w-30 or 40; cant remember... all year
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:21 PM
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Meh, my oil choices have not affected engine life despite rigorous oil change routines. Plenty of guys here have run 5W-20 the whole time without issue. Personally, I run 5W-40 synthetic but I have a SOHN adapter so my car does not "eat" engine oil.

I have had three engines despite routine changes under 3,000 miles and I am not convinced oil choice plays a big role in engine life. Just pick a good synthetic oil (5W-20 is a synthetic blend) and change it often. That is the most important thing.

1st engine: factory and 5W-20 Mobil 1 (died at 22k)

2nd engine: Castrol GTX 10W-30 (died at 96k)

3rd engine: Castrol 0W-30 (tested poorly on UOA), Mobil1 0W-40 (did ok), and currently Rotella T6 5W-40 (tested great)

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-17-2010 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:14 PM
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i was looking at picking up a the sohn adapter but been on the wall on modifying this car under warrenty i also do 3k oil changes
1st engine used castrol 10w30 and 10w40
2nd engine used royal purple 10w30(i think) and mobile 1 0w40
3rd engine on its first oil change so far

not sure i have confidence in the factory engine, my friends rx7 is still on its original engine though has been rebuilt, maybe ill get charles to rebuild once i run out of warrenty or mm delivers my turbo, also premix

do enjoy this car to much
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:31 PM
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Yeah doing the SOHN is important but I understand the warranty issues which is why I waited until I got my last engine at 96,000.

I premix as well and honestly if this engine fails prematurely then I will rebuild and start all over but by then it will be a track/weekend only car so. But for now at 12k on this one, I am running the BHR Ignition, no cat, premixing my fuel with 2 stroke, running the SOHN with 2 stroke, I never drive over 3,000RPM on cold oil, I change my oil before 3,000 miles, and I keep my paper air filter as clean as a whistle.
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:34 PM
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9krpm,
So your Rotella T6 5w40 tested great, eh?
So give it up in your UOA thread already, it ain't nookie you know.
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:19 PM
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I run 5W-30 Royal Purple Synthetic... Id like to run 5W-40 but from Royal Purple its $$$... 10W-30 will work fine as will 10W-40, but thats the highest Id go... no point really for cold start in Texas lol, thats why Id like to run 5W-40...
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:10 AM
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TX

Originally Posted by REDRX3RX8 View Post
9krpm,
So your Rotella T6 5w40 tested great, eh?
So give it up in your UOA thread already, it ain't nookie you know.

Yes it did, I am just holding the results to post both at the same time I am just do for another change right now.
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:24 PM
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The biggest problem with S1 RX-8 engine reliability is with oil metering. A Sohn adapter or varying the amounts of injection won't change this. The center of the apex seals aren't getting proper lubrication. This is why the S2's have the 3rd center oil metering jet on the rotor housing.
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:37 PM
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^^^ Yup, which is why it really doesnt matter what kind of oil you use, granted as long as its not Hello Kitty oil you should be fine since your engine will fail eventually... S1 design fail...

I believe RotaryGod, we have had a good arguement with a friend over this before lol...
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:19 PM
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Of course, that's why you premix! Hit the oil from two directions. If your engine fails after that, then your ignition is not firing properly. To make sure, get BHR ign, and you'll always know that whatever fuel is in the chamber will fire unless really lean which actually means not much hydrocarbon to make scratchy carbon.
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:25 PM
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Premix helps, better oil helps, BHR ignition helps, and Cobb AP helps. Problem is even all together you won't have a bulletproof motor.

Last edited by J8635621; 06-22-2010 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:27 PM
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^^^ Word...
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by WTBRotary! View Post
I believe RotaryGod, we have had a good arguement with a friend over this before lol...

why do you always have to start **** kid......
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:43 PM
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9krpm,
Ha! just gettin your goat! So I see you been busy checkin the nookie. good play. Ha!
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedy_Guy00 View Post
why do you always have to start **** kid......


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Old 06-22-2010, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedy_Guy00 View Post
why do you always have to start **** kid......
In this down economy he has to find news ways to pound it!
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Riley Craven View Post
In this down economy he has to find news ways to pound it!
i nearly spit blue powerade all over my computer
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:26 AM
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I run 5W-30 Royal Purple with turbo. No problems...knock on wood
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Old 07-05-2010, 01:13 PM
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Valvoline VR1 20W50 with extra zinc FTMFW , more than hot enough here for it except in the deep winter months

The oil metering is a separate issue, email me for that

Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-11-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod View Post
10W30 would work fine as would 10W40. I run only full synthetic. I have for over a decade. In 4 rotary powered cars that I've beat the crap out of, I have yet to blow up an engine.
What specific brand synthetic do you run?
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