Summer oil types in Hot North Texas
Do you guys change the viscosity of your oil for the hot Summers down here? I am running the standard 5w-20 right now but I have been thinking about adjusting that during the summer months?
What do y'all do? |
I run 10w-30 all year.
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^+1
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10W30 would work fine as would 10W40. I run only full synthetic. I have for over a decade. In 4 rotary powered cars that I've beat the crap out of, I have yet to blow up an engine.
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currently using 0w40, my 3rd or 4th engine ive lost count >_>
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yeah I either run 10w-30 or 40; cant remember... all year
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Meh, my oil choices have not affected engine life despite rigorous oil change routines. Plenty of guys here have run 5W-20 the whole time without issue. Personally, I run 5W-40 synthetic but I have a SOHN adapter so my car does not "eat" engine oil.
I have had three engines despite routine changes under 3,000 miles and I am not convinced oil choice plays a big role in engine life. Just pick a good synthetic oil (5W-20 is a synthetic blend) and change it often. That is the most important thing. 1st engine: factory and 5W-20 Mobil 1 (died at 22k) 2nd engine: Castrol GTX 10W-30 (died at 96k) 3rd engine: Castrol 0W-30 (tested poorly on UOA), Mobil1 0W-40 (did ok), and currently Rotella T6 5W-40 (tested great) |
i was looking at picking up a the sohn adapter but been on the wall on modifying this car under warrenty i also do 3k oil changes
1st engine used castrol 10w30 and 10w40 2nd engine used royal purple 10w30(i think) and mobile 1 0w40 3rd engine on its first oil change so far not sure i have confidence in the factory engine, my friends rx7 is still on its original engine though has been rebuilt, maybe ill get charles to rebuild once i run out of warrenty or mm delivers my turbo, also premix do enjoy this car to much |
Yeah doing the SOHN is important but I understand the warranty issues which is why I waited until I got my last engine at 96,000.
I premix as well and honestly if this engine fails prematurely then I will rebuild and start all over but by then it will be a track/weekend only car so. But for now at 12k on this one, I am running the BHR Ignition, no cat, premixing my fuel with 2 stroke, running the SOHN with 2 stroke, I never drive over 3,000RPM on cold oil, I change my oil before 3,000 miles, and I keep my paper air filter as clean as a whistle. |
9krpm,
So your Rotella T6 5w40 tested great, eh? So give it up in your UOA thread already, it ain't nookie you know.:rofl: |
I run 5W-30 Royal Purple Synthetic... Id like to run 5W-40 but from Royal Purple its $$$... 10W-30 will work fine as will 10W-40, but thats the highest Id go... no point really for cold start in Texas lol, thats why Id like to run 5W-40...
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Originally Posted by REDRX3RX8
(Post 3608480)
9krpm,
So your Rotella T6 5w40 tested great, eh? So give it up in your UOA thread already, it ain't nookie you know.:rofl: Yes it did, I am just holding the results to post both at the same time :) I am just do for another change right now. |
The biggest problem with S1 RX-8 engine reliability is with oil metering. A Sohn adapter or varying the amounts of injection won't change this. The center of the apex seals aren't getting proper lubrication. This is why the S2's have the 3rd center oil metering jet on the rotor housing.
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^^^ Yup, which is why it really doesnt matter what kind of oil you use, granted as long as its not Hello Kitty oil you should be fine since your engine will fail eventually... S1 design fail...
I believe RotaryGod, we have had a good arguement with a friend over this before lol... |
Of course, that's why you premix! Hit the oil from two directions. If your engine fails after that, then your ignition is not firing properly. To make sure, get BHR ign, and you'll always know that whatever fuel is in the chamber will fire unless really lean which actually means not much hydrocarbon to make scratchy carbon.
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Premix helps, better oil helps, BHR ignition helps, and Cobb AP helps. Problem is even all together you won't have a bulletproof motor.
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^^^ Word...
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Originally Posted by WTBRotary!
(Post 3610707)
I believe RotaryGod, we have had a good arguement with a friend over this before lol...
why do you always have to start shit kid...... |
9krpm,
Ha! just gettin your goat! So I see you been busy checkin the nookie. good play. Ha! |
Originally Posted by Speedy_Guy00
(Post 3610802)
why do you always have to start shit kid......
:dunno: |
Originally Posted by Speedy_Guy00
(Post 3610802)
why do you always have to start shit kid......
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Originally Posted by Riley Craven
(Post 3610962)
In this down economy he has to find news ways to pound it!
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I run 5W-30 Royal Purple with turbo. No problems...knock on wood
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Valvoline VR1 20W50 with extra zinc FTMFW , more than hot enough here for it except in the deep winter months
The oil metering is a separate issue, email me for that |
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 3604066)
10W30 would work fine as would 10W40. I run only full synthetic. I have for over a decade. In 4 rotary powered cars that I've beat the crap out of, I have yet to blow up an engine.
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Originally Posted by RX863
(Post 4686219)
What specific brand synthetic do you run?
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I use 5w30 year round in Texas. Might be better going up to 40 in the hot hot summer months but tbh I would have no idea and don't pretend to know what's good or what isn't. If my engine ever blows up I will be sure to report my experiences here.
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