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Missy, you should paint your gauge hood like this :)
http://www.japanesesportcars.com/gal...ellow_rx81.jpg |
Originally Posted by Grungepup
(Post 3785264)
i can r3 wheels?
well once our r3 buddy leaves hehehehehehheh
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3786066)
Missy, you should paint your gauge hood like this :)
i like... |
Just ordered my rotorpros, $260 for all four. How do beat that!
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man SA has pretty cool hang outs, i was gong thru the 100 pages haha, i wish i lived closer :)
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CEL is back :(
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Originally Posted by quicksilver34
(Post 3786461)
man SA has pretty cool hang outs, i was gong thru the 100 pages haha, i wish i lived closer :)
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Originally Posted by 4theride1
(Post 3786449)
Just ordered my rotorpros, $260 for all four. How do beat that!
Originally Posted by quicksilver34
(Post 3786461)
man SA has pretty cool hang outs, i was gong thru the 100 pages haha, i wish i lived closer :)
Originally Posted by 8 Maniac
(Post 3786500)
CEL is back :(
Originally Posted by Grungepup
(Post 3786615)
yeah... a couple of more peeps and we can start to rival Socal :yelrotflm
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4 Attachment(s)
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Nice, too bad the guy didn't get a clear shot of me or Jay.
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are they always out there taking pictures??
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Yeah they seem to be out there alot.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3786745)
Same codes?
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Any of you guys know what the recommended "break-in" motor oil is for a new Reman 13B? North Park is telling me that I should start off with 5W20 n then go to 5W30, but it sounds a little off to me.
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[QUOTE=9krpmrx8;3786745]Nice dude, let me know when you get everything in and we will slap em' on. Did you get pads too?
Yea, the price included the pads. I'm definitely down for the next mod day |
Originally Posted by AllMyDiamonds
(Post 3787796)
Any of you guys know what the recommended "break-in" motor oil is for a new Reman 13B? North Park is telling me that I should start off with 5W20 n then go to 5W30, but it sounds a little off to me.
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Originally Posted by AllMyDiamonds
(Post 3787796)
Any of you guys know what the recommended "break-in" motor oil is for a new Reman 13B? North Park is telling me that I should start off with 5W20 n then go to 5W30, but it sounds a little off to me.
Well I would follow this break in recommendation: http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rocedures.html Grungepup is right though, the more oil changes early on, the better. On my current rebuild I got the factory fill out at 500 miles and then did a double change and put in 0W-30 GC for 1500 miles and did another change. But which oil you choose during that period is of little concern. The 5W (W referred to as weather or cold start indication) is what matters when you start your engine cold. The colder the oil the thicker so the lower that number is the more is flows when cold. Engine wear mostly occurs during this cold start period. The second number is where your "strength" of the oil is. I may be retarded but I think of not warming your car up properly like running a marathon without warming up, you are going to hurt something. That said, not all oil is made equally, a 0W-30 (fully synthetic) of one brand can be tested and show the same viscosity of a 10W-30 Dino (non synthetic). For example, after only 1500 miles the fully synthetic German Castrol 0W-30 I was running tested at about 8cst or so of viscosity. My Castrol GTX 10W-30 non synthetic tested about the same after 3,000 miles and it is a non synthetic. Fluke? maybe. German Castrol is a highly regarded synthetic and sought after by many but the bottom line is that it did not test well in my car after only 1500 miles so what do you think the viscosity would have been after 3,000 miles? If you care to read and learn you will find the numbers on the bottle do not mean a whole lot but are more of a general idea. Many companies market full synthetics that are not truly full synthetics, etc. the only way you will know how your oil is doing, is to test it. But generally speaking, as long as you use a good brand and change it often, you will not have any problems. But IMO, if you drive hard or skimp on oil change intervals in Texas then you should be running a good 0W-40 or 5W-40. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3788316)
Well I would follow this break in recommendation:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...rocedures.html Grungepup is right though, the more oil changes early on, the better. On my current rebuild I got the factory fill out at 500 miles and then did a double change and put in 0W-30 GC for 1500 miles and did another change. But which oil you choose during that period is of little concern. The 5W (W referred to as weather or cold start indication) is what matters when you start your engine cold. The colder the oil the thicker so the lower that number is the more is flows when cold. Engine wear mostly occurs during this cold start period. The second number is where your "strength" of the oil is. I may be retarded but I think of not warming your car up properly like running a marathon without warming up, you are going to hurt something. That said, not all oil is made equally, a 0W-30 (fully synthetic) of one brand can be tested and show the same viscosity of a 10W-30 Dino (non synthetic). For example, after only 1500 miles the fully synthetic German Castrol 0W-30 I was running tested at about 8cst or so of viscosity. My Castrol GTX 10W-30 non synthetic tested about the same after 3,000 miles and it is a non synthetic. Fluke? maybe. German Castrol is a highly regarded synthetic and sought after by many but the bottom line is that it did not test well in my car after only 1500 miles so what do you think the viscosity would have been after 3,000 miles? If you care to read and learn you will find the numbers on the bottle do not mean a whole lot but are more of a general idea. Many companies market full synthetics that are not truly full synthetics, etc. the only way you will know how your oil is doing, is to test it. But generally speaking, as long as you use a good brand and change it often, you will not have any problems. But IMO, if you drive hard or skimp on oil change intervals in Texas then you should be running a good 0W-40 or 5W-40. Allow your engine to warm up to norm operating temps before hard driving. In fact, keep your RPMs below 5k for the first 1000 miles. Then slowing move up to the point where you can redline. If you need or want anymore advice or help with your car, please contact us, we are move than willing to help locals. :wavey: |
but if you aren't local, rev the piss out of your engine because they don't give a damn.
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Originally Posted by j8635621
(Post 3788905)
but if you aren't local, rev the piss out of your engine because they don't give a damn.
not true... we offer the same advice for all owners, its up to them to use that advice |
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:lol: great movie i love the scene with the first time they are sleeping in the same room
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ugh
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Originally Posted by Grungepup
(Post 3789303)
ugh
:lol: For you bro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A0-u85aAYg |
That's the best Will Ferrell scene ever. He has some good ones, but that is by far the best.
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