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TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester - Official Group Buy

Old 04-24-2009, 03:38 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
I knew I missed some posts.
Carbon and Swoope, you guys crack me up!
r0tor - I'm planning to sell them for 2 months at the GB price.
-John
yea,

and check you pp.

i changed the rules! everyone wins.

beers
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:53 AM
  #52  
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Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...

I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix.

1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals.
2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading.

Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?.

Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?.

Ash
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:02 AM
  #53  
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is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:05 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by swoope View Post
yea,

and check you pp.

i changed the rules! everyone wins.

beers
Thank you very much sir! Did I get the message right?

Originally Posted by ASH8 View Post
Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...

I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix.

1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals.
2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading.

Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?.

Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?.

Ash
hhhhmm....well, I'm unsure if a "well lubricated" seal would affect the reading. It may take some comparison testing. I'm excited to get my tester out because gives us a standard that we can all start comparing readings with.
As for the 2 stroke oil, there shouldn't be enough left in the combustion chamber to work it's way into the sensor. But if it did somehow work it's way into the sensor then it can be cleaned by spraying some carb cleaner into the adapter opening. These sensors use a stainless steel diaphragm and would just as happily measure 2 stroke oil or fuel under pressure as anything else!
Originally Posted by Texak View Post
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
You're right, it should be cut during. Pulling the crank sensor will prevent the ECU from firing the spark plugs and fuel injectors. A bunch of unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber would throw off the reading.

-John
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:23 AM
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Fedex paid me a visit this morning......


-John
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:54 PM
  #56  
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Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed.
-John
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Old 04-24-2009, 03:51 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed.
-John
Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.
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Old 04-24-2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Texak View Post
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
Yes, when you Disconnect Crank Sensor Fuel and Spark is cut, BUT, if you first warm up your engine before your run your test, residue may be present.

I guess when you remove your Spark Plugs it will give you a visual indication on how much 2 stroke may be present?.
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Old 04-24-2009, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered,
WooHOO! I made the cut! Looking forward to this thing. I have, uh, a few rotaries.
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:40 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Phil's 8 View Post
Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.
Hopefully less than that. :-)
-John
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:10 PM
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I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.

Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:12 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by GaMEChld View Post
I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.

Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case.
Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:56 AM
  #63  
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I'm sold. Put me down for blue. Will paypal shortly.
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:19 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John
Yes John,
I can confirm the directions I posted are taken from the 2009 USA Mazda RX-8 Factory Workshop Manual, the directions are identical for the Series I and II.

The only thing I altered was to include the 'TR-01' as the Compression Testing Tool to use, not the Mazda Factory Unit.

Ash
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
Dead volume has been calculated and the correction factors are listed below. I decided not to code in an automatic correction as the number varies slightly depending on the engine type. For reference the internal volume of the sensor (with adapter) is 2.85cc. To correct for the sensor dead volume just multiply your readings by the correction number appropriate for your engine.
Engine Year Ratio Correction
12A 76-82 9.4 1.042
12A 83-85 9.4 1.042
13B 74-78 9.2 1.035
13B 84-85 9.4 1.036
13B N/T 86-88 9.4 1.036
13B T 86-88 8.5 1.032
13B N/T 89-92 9.7 1.038
13B T 89-92 9.0 1.034
13B T/T 93-95 9.0 1.034
13B Ren 04-on 10.0 1.039
Since the correction factor for all rotaries is between 3.2 and 4.2%, why not set a fixed software correction factor at 3.9%? Then RENESIS owners can read their actual compression directly, and everybody else will be off less than 1%, with most off by 0.5% or less. With those small correction factors, the variance is small enough we won't need a calculator in the tool box.
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:56 PM
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because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:00 AM
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Ya, I think he originated from RX7's, so if he was going to go with one engine as the standard, it'd probably be 13B-REW. Though I do think he might as well have made it accurate for one engine, because that would be one less group of engines that would need to use a correction factor. But in the end, I bet it makes for less labor and thus less cost for us. I have a calculator on my phone anyway, so whatever :P
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by neit_jnf View Post
because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead
That'd be fine by me. Only 0.5% off at that setting. Neither of us would have to whip out a calculator to get our compression readings.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:44 AM
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Any idea what the price will be a little later? I was planning to buy this when you came out with it but it's a bit early for me to fork out 300 bucks at the moment. Will have more money to spend in the summer.

Btw, did you compare it to the factory compression tester for comparison values? (we talked about that in another thread)
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:53 AM
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Concerning the correction factor, it's really not a big enough issue to implement an automatic correction. I included them to try and help give the most accurate reading possible. It really comes down to only ~3-4psi. When I check an engine I don't bother with a calculator, I just add 4 psi and go with that.
My tester has not yet been compared to a factory tester. I do still plan to do that in the future, if/when I gain access to a mazda tester.
On a side note, I used my old prototype to test a friends FD this past weekend. The car had been running rough but would start fairly easily. I thought it sounded ok at idle, but he knows his car a lot better than I. Tests of the rear rotor were in the high 80's range (after correction) but the front rotor read 70, 40, 45. I tried to get a video, but it was dark out and my little camera just wasn't cutting it.
-John
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors View Post
Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John
FYI - My OE Mazda manual says to use the trailing plug
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:47 PM
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add me to the list for one please.

blue lcd, www.lucky7racing.net
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:31 PM
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Little update:
I've received all the LCD's, turns out that the "fast boat from china" is actually a plane. :-P And now that it's stopped flooding here I should get most of the components to start putting units together. Will post again later.
-John

Last edited by TwistedRotors; 04-28-2009 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 04-29-2009, 05:44 PM
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Oh wow, you are selling these cheaper than I thought you would be. I need to order one as well just in case.

My results were ~110 psi on every face of both rotors. This was at 20,000 and 26,000 miles on the car.

I figured I'd throw this in the group buy thread so everyone has some sort of base line.

Edit: I was the tester for RX-8's.
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Old 04-29-2009, 08:33 PM
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I sent you pm but never got an answer????

let me know
Thank you
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