yea,

and check you pp.

i changed the rules! everyone wins.

beers

 

Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...

I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix.

1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals.
2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading.

Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?.

Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?.

Ash

 

is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?

 

Thank you very much sir! Did I get the message right?

hhhhmm....well, I'm unsure if a "well lubricated" seal would affect the reading. It may take some comparison testing. I'm excited to get my tester out because gives us a standard that we can all start comparing readings with.
As for the 2 stroke oil, there shouldn't be enough left in the combustion chamber to work it's way into the sensor. But if it did somehow work it's way into the sensor then it can be cleaned by spraying some carb cleaner into the adapter opening. These sensors use a stainless steel diaphragm and would just as happily measure 2 stroke oil or fuel under pressure as anything else!
You're right, it should be cut during. Pulling the crank sensor will prevent the ECU from firing the spark plugs and fuel injectors. A bunch of unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber would throw off the reading.

-John

 

Fedex paid me a visit this morning......


-John

 

Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed.
-John

 

Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.

 

Yes, when you Disconnect Crank Sensor Fuel and Spark is cut, BUT, if you first warm up your engine before your run your test, residue may be present.

I guess when you remove your Spark Plugs it will give you a visual indication on how much 2 stroke may be present?.

 

WooHOO! I made the cut! Looking forward to this thing. I have, uh, a few rotaries.

 

Hopefully less than that. :-)
-John

 

I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.

Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case.

 

Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John

 

I'm sold. Put me down for blue. Will paypal shortly.

 

Yes John,
I can confirm the directions I posted are taken from the 2009 USA Mazda RX-8 Factory Workshop Manual, the directions are identical for the Series I and II.

The only thing I altered was to include the 'TR-01' as the Compression Testing Tool to use, not the Mazda Factory Unit.

Ash

 

Since the correction factor for all rotaries is between 3.2 and 4.2%, why not set a fixed software correction factor at 3.9%? Then RENESIS owners can read their actual compression directly, and everybody else will be off less than 1%, with most off by 0.5% or less. With those small correction factors, the variance is small enough we won't need a calculator in the tool box.

 

because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead

 

Ya, I think he originated from RX7's, so if he was going to go with one engine as the standard, it'd probably be 13B-REW. Though I do think he might as well have made it accurate for one engine, because that would be one less group of engines that would need to use a correction factor. But in the end, I bet it makes for less labor and thus less cost for us. I have a calculator on my phone anyway, so whatever :P

 

That'd be fine by me. Only 0.5% off at that setting. Neither of us would have to whip out a calculator to get our compression readings.

 

Any idea what the price will be a little later? I was planning to buy this when you came out with it but it's a bit early for me to fork out 300 bucks at the moment. Will have more money to spend in the summer.

Btw, did you compare it to the factory compression tester for comparison values? (we talked about that in another thread)

 

Concerning the correction factor, it's really not a big enough issue to implement an automatic correction. I included them to try and help give the most accurate reading possible. It really comes down to only ~3-4psi. When I check an engine I don't bother with a calculator, I just add 4 psi and go with that.
My tester has not yet been compared to a factory tester. I do still plan to do that in the future, if/when I gain access to a mazda tester.
On a side note, I used my old prototype to test a friends FD this past weekend. The car had been running rough but would start fairly easily. I thought it sounded ok at idle, but he knows his car a lot better than I. Tests of the rear rotor were in the high 80's range (after correction) but the front rotor read 70, 40, 45. I tried to get a video, but it was dark out and my little camera just wasn't cutting it.
-John

 

FYI - My OE Mazda manual says to use the trailing plug

 

add me to the list for one please.

blue lcd, www.lucky7racing.net

 

Little update:
I've received all the LCD's, turns out that the "fast boat from china" is actually a plane. :-P And now that it's stopped flooding here I should get most of the components to start putting units together. Will post again later.
-John

 

Oh wow, you are selling these cheaper than I thought you would be. I need to order one as well just in case.

My results were ~110 psi on every face of both rotors. This was at 20,000 and 26,000 miles on the car.

I figured I'd throw this in the group buy thread so everyone has some sort of base line.

Edit: I was the tester for RX-8's.

 

I sent you pm but never got an answer????

let me know
Thank you