GB: LED Footwell Lights!!!
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Wiring it to a switch is not a problem, although what power source did you use with the switch? Don't you have to have a constant source to turn it on whenever you want? Sorry I should've been more specific the first time. Thanks in advance
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I finished installing mine tonight. I was going to post Pics, but considering I got the red ones and Rotary_Power's pic looks Sooo much cleaner than mine I'll pass Just imagine his without the Nav option and you have my car hehe.
A few words for those who haven't puchased any yet, or have yet to install.
Rasp did a great job in packaging exactly what you need and the instructions he posted on the web (You get the URL when you purchase) are top notch. I had a few little issues which I though others might want to be aware of before they attempt to install thiers. Note: This is just for informational purposes to save people a bit of trouble, and NOT meant to knock Rasp in any way.
1) A Word on Wiring location: Installation is rather 'simple', however the location where you need to get at the wires is a big pain. There are quite a few bundles of wires under your steering wheel, on the left side.. that's where you'll wire this in. Having a Trunk-Monkey(tm) would have been very useful as I had to actually lie on my back on the driver seat with my head at the pedals in order to get to the wires.. it was not fun Once you find the wires it's rather easy.
2) Method to use: I'd highly suggest installing via the "running lights" method over the dome lights. Beyond the practical benefits of not having to have the door open, the wiring points are much easier to locate and slightly easier to get too.
3) Switches: I used a switch like many others have mentioned. The one I choose is one I had from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...b=custRatings), and it's a 3 pole switch. To wire it up is rather simple. The poles are marked "Power", "Load" and "Ground". All of Rasps BLACK wires + the Tapped wire for the ground (color varies on method) go to the "Ground" pole. The Green wires from Rasp's lights go to the "Load" pole. And the remaining Power wire you tapped (The color varies based on install method again) goes to the "Power" pole.
I've seen this same type of switch at Advanced Auto Parts for around 8bucks.
4) Opps!!! - Should you manage to hook the wires up WRONG, and blow a fuse All is not lost! (We'll not discuss how I found this out).
The fuse for the Running Light version is located under the hood fuse panel, and is labeled "Illum". It controls all of the inside dash "red" illuminations, plus the door lock illuminations. You can run your car without them while you run out to an autoshop to replace it. The speedometer and such are fine, just won't be in red at night. There is ONE spare 10amp fuse in the panel inside the cabin near the drivers left leg. So you have 2 shots at wiring it up right before you need to pick up a few more.
All in all they look great. I think they don't seem as bright as some of the other colors simply because they are red but to me they match the other car lights so I am happy with them.
Since my switch is a little different, here's a pic of it installed... Note: many of those scratches are not from this install, but when I originally used the switch for something else ages ago, and wasn't very careful about removing it
A few words for those who haven't puchased any yet, or have yet to install.
Rasp did a great job in packaging exactly what you need and the instructions he posted on the web (You get the URL when you purchase) are top notch. I had a few little issues which I though others might want to be aware of before they attempt to install thiers. Note: This is just for informational purposes to save people a bit of trouble, and NOT meant to knock Rasp in any way.
1) A Word on Wiring location: Installation is rather 'simple', however the location where you need to get at the wires is a big pain. There are quite a few bundles of wires under your steering wheel, on the left side.. that's where you'll wire this in. Having a Trunk-Monkey(tm) would have been very useful as I had to actually lie on my back on the driver seat with my head at the pedals in order to get to the wires.. it was not fun Once you find the wires it's rather easy.
2) Method to use: I'd highly suggest installing via the "running lights" method over the dome lights. Beyond the practical benefits of not having to have the door open, the wiring points are much easier to locate and slightly easier to get too.
3) Switches: I used a switch like many others have mentioned. The one I choose is one I had from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...b=custRatings), and it's a 3 pole switch. To wire it up is rather simple. The poles are marked "Power", "Load" and "Ground". All of Rasps BLACK wires + the Tapped wire for the ground (color varies on method) go to the "Ground" pole. The Green wires from Rasp's lights go to the "Load" pole. And the remaining Power wire you tapped (The color varies based on install method again) goes to the "Power" pole.
I've seen this same type of switch at Advanced Auto Parts for around 8bucks.
4) Opps!!! - Should you manage to hook the wires up WRONG, and blow a fuse All is not lost! (We'll not discuss how I found this out).
The fuse for the Running Light version is located under the hood fuse panel, and is labeled "Illum". It controls all of the inside dash "red" illuminations, plus the door lock illuminations. You can run your car without them while you run out to an autoshop to replace it. The speedometer and such are fine, just won't be in red at night. There is ONE spare 10amp fuse in the panel inside the cabin near the drivers left leg. So you have 2 shots at wiring it up right before you need to pick up a few more.
All in all they look great. I think they don't seem as bright as some of the other colors simply because they are red but to me they match the other car lights so I am happy with them.
Since my switch is a little different, here's a pic of it installed... Note: many of those scratches are not from this install, but when I originally used the switch for something else ages ago, and wasn't very careful about removing it
#342
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Awesome review DaGnome!
I agree that actually getting to the running light wires is a tad easier then the dome light wires. On a side note, being a contortionist will greatly help you install the lights; however, it's not required.
I'm always available by PM for anyone that needs help. No question is too stupid- don't be afraid to ask me for help. I haven't had a single person not be able to install these. (a few have needed help, but they always get them working after they PM me)
I agree that actually getting to the running light wires is a tad easier then the dome light wires. On a side note, being a contortionist will greatly help you install the lights; however, it's not required.
I'm always available by PM for anyone that needs help. No question is too stupid- don't be afraid to ask me for help. I haven't had a single person not be able to install these. (a few have needed help, but they always get them working after they PM me)
#343
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for the running lights, yes, you do.... however
the dome lights use a neutral switching circuit, so you'd need a constaint ground.... which is pretty much any metal in the car.
#345
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I finished installing mine tonight. I was going to post Pics, but considering I got the red ones and Rotary_Power's pic looks Sooo much cleaner than mine I'll pass Just imagine his without the Nav option and you have my car hehe.
A few words for those who haven't puchased any yet, or have yet to install.
Rasp did a great job in packaging exactly what you need and the instructions he posted on the web (You get the URL when you purchase) are top notch. I had a few little issues which I though others might want to be aware of before they attempt to install thiers. Note: This is just for informational purposes to save people a bit of trouble, and NOT meant to knock Rasp in any way.
1) A Word on Wiring location: Installation is rather 'simple', however the location where you need to get at the wires is a big pain. There are quite a few bundles of wires under your steering wheel, on the left side.. that's where you'll wire this in. Having a Trunk-Monkey(tm) would have been very useful as I had to actually lie on my back on the driver seat with my head at the pedals in order to get to the wires.. it was not fun Once you find the wires it's rather easy.
2) Method to use: I'd highly suggest installing via the "running lights" method over the dome lights. Beyond the practical benefits of not having to have the door open, the wiring points are much easier to locate and slightly easier to get too.
3) Switches: I used a switch like many others have mentioned. The one I choose is one I had from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...b=custRatings), and it's a 3 pole switch. To wire it up is rather simple. The poles are marked "Power", "Load" and "Ground". All of Rasps BLACK wires + the Tapped wire for the ground (color varies on method) go to the "Ground" pole. The Green wires from Rasp's lights go to the "Load" pole. And the remaining Power wire you tapped (The color varies based on install method again) goes to the "Power" pole.
I've seen this same type of switch at Advanced Auto Parts for around 8bucks.
4) Opps!!! - Should you manage to hook the wires up WRONG, and blow a fuse All is not lost! (We'll not discuss how I found this out).
The fuse for the Running Light version is located under the hood fuse panel, and is labeled "Illum". It controls all of the inside dash "red" illuminations, plus the door lock illuminations. You can run your car without them while you run out to an autoshop to replace it. The speedometer and such are fine, just won't be in red at night. There is ONE spare 10amp fuse in the panel inside the cabin near the drivers left leg. So you have 2 shots at wiring it up right before you need to pick up a few more.
All in all they look great. I think they don't seem as bright as some of the other colors simply because they are red but to me they match the other car lights so I am happy with them.
Since my switch is a little different, here's a pic of it installed... Note: many of those scratches are not from this install, but when I originally used the switch for something else ages ago, and wasn't very careful about removing it
A few words for those who haven't puchased any yet, or have yet to install.
Rasp did a great job in packaging exactly what you need and the instructions he posted on the web (You get the URL when you purchase) are top notch. I had a few little issues which I though others might want to be aware of before they attempt to install thiers. Note: This is just for informational purposes to save people a bit of trouble, and NOT meant to knock Rasp in any way.
1) A Word on Wiring location: Installation is rather 'simple', however the location where you need to get at the wires is a big pain. There are quite a few bundles of wires under your steering wheel, on the left side.. that's where you'll wire this in. Having a Trunk-Monkey(tm) would have been very useful as I had to actually lie on my back on the driver seat with my head at the pedals in order to get to the wires.. it was not fun Once you find the wires it's rather easy.
2) Method to use: I'd highly suggest installing via the "running lights" method over the dome lights. Beyond the practical benefits of not having to have the door open, the wiring points are much easier to locate and slightly easier to get too.
3) Switches: I used a switch like many others have mentioned. The one I choose is one I had from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...b=custRatings), and it's a 3 pole switch. To wire it up is rather simple. The poles are marked "Power", "Load" and "Ground". All of Rasps BLACK wires + the Tapped wire for the ground (color varies on method) go to the "Ground" pole. The Green wires from Rasp's lights go to the "Load" pole. And the remaining Power wire you tapped (The color varies based on install method again) goes to the "Power" pole.
I've seen this same type of switch at Advanced Auto Parts for around 8bucks.
4) Opps!!! - Should you manage to hook the wires up WRONG, and blow a fuse All is not lost! (We'll not discuss how I found this out).
The fuse for the Running Light version is located under the hood fuse panel, and is labeled "Illum". It controls all of the inside dash "red" illuminations, plus the door lock illuminations. You can run your car without them while you run out to an autoshop to replace it. The speedometer and such are fine, just won't be in red at night. There is ONE spare 10amp fuse in the panel inside the cabin near the drivers left leg. So you have 2 shots at wiring it up right before you need to pick up a few more.
All in all they look great. I think they don't seem as bright as some of the other colors simply because they are red but to me they match the other car lights so I am happy with them.
Since my switch is a little different, here's a pic of it installed... Note: many of those scratches are not from this install, but when I originally used the switch for something else ages ago, and wasn't very careful about removing it
#346
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I suppose it COULD be possible to tap the power to another circuit, say the horn, or power seat/door stuff, but I don't know the wiring enough to know which one has the correct voltage and isn't critical should you blow the fuse.
#349
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The running lights have to be on, since that's where the power is tapped into.
I suppose it COULD be possible to tap the power to another circuit, say the horn, or power seat/door stuff, but I don't know the wiring enough to know which one has the correct voltage and isn't critical should you blow the fuse.
I suppose it COULD be possible to tap the power to another circuit, say the horn, or power seat/door stuff, but I don't know the wiring enough to know which one has the correct voltage and isn't critical should you blow the fuse.
This isn't hard. Just tap the ground(body) rather than the black/green wire in the dome light wiring guide.