DIY: Removing VFAD
06-20-2008, 03:14 PM
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DIY: Removing VFAD
I have searched and searched but could not find anything on the actual removing of the vfad.
I just took mine out and realized it is extremely easy to do.
So here is my step by step on taking it off.
Remove front bumper.
Take bolt of fabric tube its 10mm
pop off the foam piece by the to pop of clips
take of plastic cover in front of vfad by 3 pop off retainers
take the last 2 retainers of vfad and pull straight out
pull off hose from valve.
your done.
I went a step farther and took out all the tubing from the engine to the vfad to make it a clean removal now there is a sensor that goes to the vfad that has a harness plugged into it. So i just caped both tubes on it and left it on but everything else has been plugged and fully removed.
So should i remove that sensor as well.
My car runs good i have a bit of backfire but i think that is just because the ecu is still adjusting to the change in intake.
I just took mine out and realized it is extremely easy to do.
So here is my step by step on taking it off.
Remove front bumper.
Take bolt of fabric tube its 10mm
pop off the foam piece by the to pop of clips
take of plastic cover in front of vfad by 3 pop off retainers
take the last 2 retainers of vfad and pull straight out
pull off hose from valve.
your done.
I went a step farther and took out all the tubing from the engine to the vfad to make it a clean removal now there is a sensor that goes to the vfad that has a harness plugged into it. So i just caped both tubes on it and left it on but everything else has been plugged and fully removed.
So should i remove that sensor as well.
My car runs good i have a bit of backfire but i think that is just because the ecu is still adjusting to the change in intake.
06-20-2008, 04:15 PM
#2
could you possibly post some pictures of your vfad removal? they would really help the explaination... either way what were the effects? better or worse mileage? pickup? sound? idleing? etc...?
06-20-2008, 06:42 PM
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Sound is a lot more aggressive definetely louder. It has a bit more pickup mainly under heavy acceleration because you dont have that slight hesistation when the vfad opens and closes.
I will have better results here in a few days once my ecu gets adjusted to the new setup. I did reset it but it needs to gather all its info now.
i dont really have any pics i just took it out was fast and was not thinking about posting it on but i could get some pics of the parts i took out.
06-20-2008, 07:47 PM
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in an otherwise OEM setup, your likely loosing out on TOTAL performance by doing this.... that design was chosen to keep the intake as efficient as possible at all RPMs. doing this you may find minor gains in a certain area(low/high rpm) but for total power/torque under the curve, i'd bet money your loosing out....
i dont understand the stuff well enough to explain it, but i've read many of RotaryGod's and other posts on intake runner length and the whole idea of tuning the intake.... they all lead to the same conclusion, for a NON-BOOSTED application, Mazda pretty much hit the nail right on the head. some gains can be found, but you'll pay for them in other areas.
i dont understand the stuff well enough to explain it, but i've read many of RotaryGod's and other posts on intake runner length and the whole idea of tuning the intake.... they all lead to the same conclusion, for a NON-BOOSTED application, Mazda pretty much hit the nail right on the head. some gains can be found, but you'll pay for them in other areas.
06-21-2008, 01:19 PM
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you may be right about that but i am not staying oem for long i am getting a lot of aftermarket upgrades here in a few weeks
Cobb ecu tune
custom exhaust
turbo
coilovers
new rims
full body kit
carbon fiber spoiler
so i figured having all of that on the way i could justify taking all that off the intake.
and the vfad is mostly for noise reduction not really for performance so the loose or gain we are talking about here is ~1hp at most i did it mainly for the sound that is it i had no thought of performance doing this most mods to the intake are purely for noise nothing else you cant get much of a gain off the stock intake but you can take all the noise reduction off.
Cobb ecu tune
custom exhaust
turbo
coilovers
new rims
full body kit
carbon fiber spoiler
so i figured having all of that on the way i could justify taking all that off the intake.
and the vfad is mostly for noise reduction not really for performance so the loose or gain we are talking about here is ~1hp at most i did it mainly for the sound that is it i had no thought of performance doing this most mods to the intake are purely for noise nothing else you cant get much of a gain off the stock intake but you can take all the noise reduction off.
06-21-2008, 10:53 PM
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I just looked it up and on the manual 8 the VFADs second duct doesnt open until 5500rpm so id guess taking it off would give you 30-50% more air into the engine... never hurts right?
02-17-2009, 07:22 PM
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i have been driving my car ALL DAY... the throttle body bypass + removed vfad + k&n filter + removed panels in airbox + drilled holes in front bumper grill = very VERY AWESOME!! oh god, it's so nice of a sound, not to loud. at some rpms it produces a nice deep growl. and it cost me 10$ to do it all! (well a friend bought me the filter)
02-26-2009, 09:30 AM
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Thanks dale, not knowing the repercussions of the tubing and sensor disconnection I was afraid to do this.
Ive got the K&N typhoon2, the one that looks like a funnel, and a large vent in my front bumper right in front of the vfad module, both are in direct line with eachother (someone planned ahead)
I see people writing not good to do this. I think Im gonna take the dive tomorrow afternoon and see if my car is still running or not.
in case your wondering what im talking about here is a pic of the bumper, I am hoping it functions like a ram air hood. I know the WS6 firebird had a ram air that added a good amount of power past 50-60mph (the pignose hood). and behind that my airbox is completely closed off from the rest of the engine bay.
Ive got the K&N typhoon2, the one that looks like a funnel, and a large vent in my front bumper right in front of the vfad module, both are in direct line with eachother (someone planned ahead)
I see people writing not good to do this. I think Im gonna take the dive tomorrow afternoon and see if my car is still running or not.
in case your wondering what im talking about here is a pic of the bumper, I am hoping it functions like a ram air hood. I know the WS6 firebird had a ram air that added a good amount of power past 50-60mph (the pignose hood). and behind that my airbox is completely closed off from the rest of the engine bay.
03-13-2009, 09:19 AM
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no lean codes, no ecu codes what so ever.
gained about 1 maybe 2 miles to the gallon on the highway (i commute alot) but i think this has to do with the open duct in my front bumper some.
the sound is not that much louder, although i have a typhoon 2 intake so it was loud to begin with.
but i did notice that long idle times are not as bad on initial take off, you know how if you sit at a stop light for a while and go to start again, it feels sluggish. I have a short ram so while sitting still it sucks in hot engine bay air. after doing this, all my issues with hot air intake while idleing is pretty much gone.
I can tell physically as well, go for a long drive before without redlining, just normal driving and touch the intake box after. its going to be REALLY warm. take off the vfad, go for a long drive, my filter was actually cool.
i really do think it had something to do with the hole in the bumper though. but there are DIYs on here on how to put one in and have it look good for cheap.
once again, thanks man for the write up that convinced me to jump. gained a couple ponies and some MPG from this....not much, but every bit helps and adds up in the end.
gained about 1 maybe 2 miles to the gallon on the highway (i commute alot) but i think this has to do with the open duct in my front bumper some.
the sound is not that much louder, although i have a typhoon 2 intake so it was loud to begin with.
but i did notice that long idle times are not as bad on initial take off, you know how if you sit at a stop light for a while and go to start again, it feels sluggish. I have a short ram so while sitting still it sucks in hot engine bay air. after doing this, all my issues with hot air intake while idleing is pretty much gone.
I can tell physically as well, go for a long drive before without redlining, just normal driving and touch the intake box after. its going to be REALLY warm. take off the vfad, go for a long drive, my filter was actually cool.
i really do think it had something to do with the hole in the bumper though. but there are DIYs on here on how to put one in and have it look good for cheap.
once again, thanks man for the write up that convinced me to jump. gained a couple ponies and some MPG from this....not much, but every bit helps and adds up in the end.
04-04-2009, 03:20 AM
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04-08-2009, 09:20 PM
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well i did it!!!! i think??.. i spent my day figuring this thing out.. i have a K&N intake and figured that the VFAD looked pointless since i got a short ram intake.. i took the VFAD out and left the little valve vacum line thing that opens and shuts the VFAD door, uncapped... is that alright?? for all i know its still sucking in air... i couldnt find any kind of sensor that DALE said he wanted to remove.. oh weLL.. i guess im about a 1LB lighter now.... LOL.. it was a fun DIY! i also did the cooler oil DIY vents... thanx DIY!!