TIEN s question
05-24-2010, 01:28 PM
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TIEN s question
if our bilstiens(stock) are progressive how is it possible that damage does not occur when you lower the car using springs? i mean wouldnt that mean that the shock is partially compressed all the time?
05-24-2010, 01:41 PM
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Our car isn't any different here.
If you change the spring rate of a car's springs without changing the shocks, you will increase the wear on the shocks and they will fail faster. The wider the difference from what you changed from, the faster the wear is.
Shocks are valved and set to a specific spring rate range, going outside of that does indeed 'cause damage' in the form of excess stress and wear. Go really aggressive with a lowering spring on the stock shocks and you might reduce their lifespan to only a few thousand miles/kilometers. Even a mild drop can reduce their lifespan to 10k-15k
If you change the spring rate of a car's springs without changing the shocks, you will increase the wear on the shocks and they will fail faster. The wider the difference from what you changed from, the faster the wear is.
Shocks are valved and set to a specific spring rate range, going outside of that does indeed 'cause damage' in the form of excess stress and wear. Go really aggressive with a lowering spring on the stock shocks and you might reduce their lifespan to only a few thousand miles/kilometers. Even a mild drop can reduce their lifespan to 10k-15k
05-24-2010, 03:06 PM
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I'm just tossing out numbers from what I have heard/read/seen. If you go really really aggressive on a drop (and resulting spring rate, which is what matters here), the OEM shocks don't last more than a few thousand miles from that point. Even mild changes, and the shocks fail within 10,000 - 15,000 miles from that point.
It simply comes down to having the proper shock for the spring rates you have. If you are set on a spring rate, then find a shock to match (many good shock companies are willing to revalve to a specific spring rate for you prior to shipment...for a fee).
Springs are the cheap and easy between the two, but in the end you still end up paying for the shocks.
This is true in any car. Simple shock dynamics.
The only way to get past this without changing the shocks is to get springs with OEM spring rates, but if you also lower with OEM spring rates, your travel will be too great for your bump stops / fenders.
It simply comes down to having the proper shock for the spring rates you have. If you are set on a spring rate, then find a shock to match (many good shock companies are willing to revalve to a specific spring rate for you prior to shipment...for a fee).
Springs are the cheap and easy between the two, but in the end you still end up paying for the shocks.
This is true in any car. Simple shock dynamics.
The only way to get past this without changing the shocks is to get springs with OEM spring rates, but if you also lower with OEM spring rates, your travel will be too great for your bump stops / fenders.
05-24-2010, 11:15 PM
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05-25-2010, 06:27 AM
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^ yes they are.
Bilstein HD's (a.k.a. B6) are designed to work up to 30mm lowering. The H&R springs and Eibachs are both around 30mm drop, hence there it is debatable that the B6 and the B8 both work for either of these shocks.
B6 + H&R
B6 + Eibach
B8 + H&R
B8 + Eibach
all these combos work.
Bilstein HD's (a.k.a. B6) are designed to work up to 30mm lowering. The H&R springs and Eibachs are both around 30mm drop, hence there it is debatable that the B6 and the B8 both work for either of these shocks.
B6 + H&R
B6 + Eibach
B8 + H&R
B8 + Eibach
all these combos work.
05-26-2010, 07:17 AM
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sorry dude, can you explain that. if they are made for a lower that how is it debatable?
sorry dude, can you explain that. if they are made for a "lower" how is it debatable?
umm, are you serious, i added the quotes for you so you can decipher my terrible grammar......
05-26-2010, 07:20 AM
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^ yes they are.
Bilstein HD's (a.k.a. B6) are designed to work up to 30mm lowering. The H&R springs and Eibachs are both around 30mm drop, hence there it is debatable that the B6 and the B8 both work for either of these shocks.
B6 + H&R
B6 + Eibach
B8 + H&R
B8 + Eibach
all these combos work.
Bilstein HD's (a.k.a. B6) are designed to work up to 30mm lowering. The H&R springs and Eibachs are both around 30mm drop, hence there it is debatable that the B6 and the B8 both work for either of these shocks.
B6 + H&R
B6 + Eibach
B8 + H&R
B8 + Eibach
all these combos work.
05-26-2010, 09:40 AM
#16
The B6's work with springs that lower the car up to 30mm.
The B8's work with springs that lower the car between 30 - 50mm.
The Eibachs and H&R's are approx 30mm +/- 1-2mm.
Therefore, it is debatable as to which set of Bilstein's you can run with these two springs since the lowering parameter of both of these springs are on the borderline where the two shocks are specified for. There would be 4 possible combinations as listed previously.
The Racing beat springs are 12.7mm lowering, therefore you would use the Bilstein B6's to match them.
The Bilstein B6's are also known as Bilstein HD in North America.
I still don't understand what you are asking
"if they are made for a "lower" how is it debatable?" Can you rephrase that?
The B8's work with springs that lower the car between 30 - 50mm.
The Eibachs and H&R's are approx 30mm +/- 1-2mm.
Therefore, it is debatable as to which set of Bilstein's you can run with these two springs since the lowering parameter of both of these springs are on the borderline where the two shocks are specified for. There would be 4 possible combinations as listed previously.
The Racing beat springs are 12.7mm lowering, therefore you would use the Bilstein B6's to match them.
The Bilstein B6's are also known as Bilstein HD in North America.
I still don't understand what you are asking
"if they are made for a "lower" how is it debatable?" Can you rephrase that?
05-26-2010, 11:31 AM
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05-26-2010, 08:18 PM
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FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU...I took it off in my mind, then asked a friendly Mazda mechanic to execute my command lolz
I still can't figure out wtf Footman did for my car about the wire thing for lights though haha...
P.S: Are you going to do a 6hrs+ detail on your car like last year? My condo has underground car wash if you wanna come by... I need someone to help execute my "mind" too on removing scratches :P
P.P.S:
Autoglym products (esp HD Wax and polisher) are available in CT and Walmart for CHEAP now! Well cheaper than order it online before...
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...adian-tire.htm
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...h-america.html
I still can't figure out wtf Footman did for my car about the wire thing for lights though haha...
P.S: Are you going to do a 6hrs+ detail on your car like last year? My condo has underground car wash if you wanna come by... I need someone to help execute my "mind" too on removing scratches :P
P.P.S:
Autoglym products (esp HD Wax and polisher) are available in CT and Walmart for CHEAP now! Well cheaper than order it online before...
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...adian-tire.htm
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...h-america.html
Last edited by Kafka; 05-26-2010 at 08:21 PM.
08-09-2011, 07:30 AM
#25
What's the drop on RS-R springs?
If it's 30mm or less B6's are fine. If it's more than 30mm, then go B8's. The B8's will also lower your car a bit more (allows the spring to work in a more natural steady state).
I am on Bilstein B8's and Eibach prokit.
Seeing that you are in I'm guessing Florence, Italy (europe), you should have no problem getting either one. If you're in some small town named Florence in North America, then it'll be difficult for you, as it was for me.
If it's 30mm or less B6's are fine. If it's more than 30mm, then go B8's. The B8's will also lower your car a bit more (allows the spring to work in a more natural steady state).
I am on Bilstein B8's and Eibach prokit.
Seeing that you are in I'm guessing Florence, Italy (europe), you should have no problem getting either one. If you're in some small town named Florence in North America, then it'll be difficult for you, as it was for me.