Question regarding warranty in canada
#1
Question regarding warranty in canada
Hi Guys,
Apparently my Cat is dead or If im lucky its just my MAF ( after cleaning it its very unlikely ) My car is still under full warranty since its a 07 with less than 10k km but its the first time ever I have to deal with the dealership so I have a few questions for the ones with more experience than me.
1st- How does it works ? I mean do I have to pay something for the diagnostic or something ( like to read the CEL? In both case , is it a free repair? Totally free ?( I know some dealer can be cheap.. )
2nd -For the ppl in the montreal era would you suggest me a particular Dealership?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the stupid questions
Apparently my Cat is dead or If im lucky its just my MAF ( after cleaning it its very unlikely ) My car is still under full warranty since its a 07 with less than 10k km but its the first time ever I have to deal with the dealership so I have a few questions for the ones with more experience than me.
1st- How does it works ? I mean do I have to pay something for the diagnostic or something ( like to read the CEL? In both case , is it a free repair? Totally free ?( I know some dealer can be cheap.. )
2nd -For the ppl in the montreal era would you suggest me a particular Dealership?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the stupid questions
#3
Yep since the car wash .. followed by the rainy day my car has no power after 4k.. its like my engine keeps reving but im not gaining speed at all plus I get get beyond 5k in 3rd gear even if I floor the gas pedal.. After inspecting my CAI I noticed that the air filter was wet .. even under the sox .. but its been 2 days and the car still have the same issues
#4
Yep since the car wash .. followed by the rainy day my car has no power after 4k.. its like my engine keeps reving but im not gaining speed at all plus I get get beyond 5k in 3rd gear even if I floor the gas pedal.. After inspecting my CAI I noticed that the air filter was wet .. even under the sox .. but its been 2 days and the car still have the same issues
(engine went off power at 73K km with half year life of synthetic oil changes)
(engine flushed and new oil pump at 73K km)
(engine 73K - 100K Km, 5w 20)
(engine now 102K km, like brand new, after major tune up)
Good Luck on your 8 and tell us your story~
If you were using synthetic, this might be your cheapest solution.
Last edited by millchan; 05-19-2009 at 12:32 PM.
#5
"no power after 4k, its like my engine keeps reving but im not gaining speed at all" this happened to me, after I redline my car on the 407, then I tow it to dealer. it was the reason, I was using synthetic motor oil, I kept using for half year. It was full of bubble inside my engine and my oil pump, therefore my engine lights turned out and the computer involved and forced rpm limited to 4 - 5k at most and not gonna produce power. Coz when I shifted it to REVERSE for the tow truck, my engine still went powerful. Then the dealer said my engine was dead and they said they would swap me a new engine. After that, the other day I received the call from them, they gave me a engine flush for my engine and new oil pump and reset the code, and tested it, they said my engine is okay now. Just never use synthetic on the 8 anyone, coz our engine needs to burn oil as a part of operating, synthetic is an unburnable motor oil, so the engine was filled with soup as synthetic doesn't burn and they just transform. I paid few hundred and took back my 8, since that day my car has no engine anymore with the 5w 20 and get changed every 3K km.
(engine went off power at 73K km with half year life of synthetic oil changes)
(engine flushed and new oil pump at 73K km)
(engine 73K - 100K Km, 5w 20)
(engine now 102K km, like brand new, after major tune up)
Good Luck on your 8 and tell us your story~
If you were using synthetic, this might be your cheapest solution.
(engine went off power at 73K km with half year life of synthetic oil changes)
(engine flushed and new oil pump at 73K km)
(engine 73K - 100K Km, 5w 20)
(engine now 102K km, like brand new, after major tune up)
Good Luck on your 8 and tell us your story~
If you were using synthetic, this might be your cheapest solution.
#6
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Has nothing to do with synthetics.
Synthetic oil burns just fine. Whoever says otherwise is ignorant.
Heck, many of the premix oils MADE TO BURN are synthetic, actually, all of the high end ones are.
Seriously, never listen to mechanics, they DO NOT know what they are talking about when it comes to oil. I never met one who did.
Synthetic oil burns just fine. Whoever says otherwise is ignorant.
Heck, many of the premix oils MADE TO BURN are synthetic, actually, all of the high end ones are.
Seriously, never listen to mechanics, they DO NOT know what they are talking about when it comes to oil. I never met one who did.
#7
Has nothing to do with synthetics.
Synthetic oil burns just fine. Whoever says otherwise is ignorant.
Heck, many of the premix oils MADE TO BURN are synthetic, actually, all of the high end ones are.
Seriously, never listen to mechanics, they DO NOT know what they are talking about when it comes to oil. I never met one who did.
Synthetic oil burns just fine. Whoever says otherwise is ignorant.
Heck, many of the premix oils MADE TO BURN are synthetic, actually, all of the high end ones are.
Seriously, never listen to mechanics, they DO NOT know what they are talking about when it comes to oil. I never met one who did.
#8
but as RED X8 has similar symptom that I was experienced and I told my story just as a fine case study.
#9
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Yes its wrong.
Engine oil in the Renesis is gathered in the oil pan and dribbled into the ignition to burn with the air and fuel.
Whether it burned or not (which it does), its going out the tail pipe one way or another.
It has nothing to do with the soup he had.
What did have to do with the soup could have been:
- having the engine oil in there too long before a change
- Frothy dipstick in winter (normal)
- Not replenishing the engine oil often enough
#10
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that what I was experienced and was told, and still now because of that I don't use synthetic but 5W20. and so far my engine runs well. I won't know the answer until the engine light turn back on with the same reason.
but as RED X8 has similar symptom that I was experienced and I told my story just as a fine case study.
but as RED X8 has similar symptom that I was experienced and I told my story just as a fine case study.
#11
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[I]I heard that synthetic oil doesn’t burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits. Is this true?
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four-cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil burns cleaner due to its synthetic base stock being free of contamination and the fact that many of its additives are ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil burns at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged. (500 – 1700%°F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)/I]
http://www.royalpurple.com/faqs-rotary.html
What Royal Purple is saying is true for almost all good oils, not just theirs.
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four-cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil burns cleaner due to its synthetic base stock being free of contamination and the fact that many of its additives are ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil burns at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged. (500 – 1700%°F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)/I]
http://www.royalpurple.com/faqs-rotary.html
What Royal Purple is saying is true for almost all good oils, not just theirs.
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