^ thats not bad - but you shipped to Detroit? I will easily use more than $100 in fuel, oil, wear and tear (not to mention taking time out of my day) to drive from Toronto to Detroit and then drive back just to grab it... $330 from Ivan makes more sense for us in the GTA.

Centric seems to have some street cred with a lot of guys so ... I guess I'll be going with that then :P

 

Driving from Toronto to Detroit to pick up rotors does not make any sense [not sure where you got that idea]. I lived in Windsor at the time and getting to Detroit was pretty easy.

 

oh absolutely; wasn't from your post ; its just a few out-of-towners were posting earlier they were positive it could be acquired cheaper than what we're currently looking at when it really doesnt seem to be possible.

someone already eluded that shipping to York Region would be $160 alone in S&H so ... unless I start working in Windsor in the next few months I'll just have to settle with picking it up from the shop 5 mins from my house

You found the rotors held up pretty okay for track use though eh?

 

If shipping to Toronto is 160$ than ordering from rockauto does not make sense. And if you can get oem, made in Japan rotors for 377$ and centric premiums for 330$, I would prefer the oems for track use. I paid 200$ for my rotors and at the time I could not find anything close to $377 for oem rotors.

Generally centric premium rotors are fine for track use - your pads will play a much greater role.

 

PRICE UPDATE.... (Looks like my dealership made a mistake on the price. It's correct now)

All prices for set of 4, tax-in.

STOCK OEM Rotors (Genuine Mazda Japan parts): $508
Racing Brake (open slot, curved vanes): $650
DBA 4000: $750
Centric premiums: $330
Ghetto-*** Made-in-china cheap (but still works): $200
Powerslot Cryo-treated rotors (slotted): $660


So now we have some real decisions to make!

 

At those prices, I would go with the centric premium rotors + Make it a DIY and save even more cash.

Unless you want to set lap records those will do just fine.

 

Thanks for all the info but where did you get the quote for the centrics from? I'm probably going to go there. I was thinking the racing brakes because of the reduced weight and track use advantages but unless I can get a group buy or something on them it feels like I'm spoiling myself if I buy them, lol.

 

Go to my friend Ivan at iGarage. You can find him on Facebook, search for "iGarage Auto Services". Centrics for $330 from him. I do my work there (oil, fluids, brakes, etc...) and so does CL_S, Ka Kui, Druggist and some others.

PM him and tell him I sent you, you might as well get them installed there too.

I'm currently debating between Centric Premiums and DBA Clubspec T3 4000's

 

^ you guys dont go to scarb mazda anymore ? :P

 

yeah Ivan at iGarage is efficient and affordable - did a lot of good work on my car with less hassle than the dealership! Im putting my money down for centric premiums - seems like its the most affordable equivalent to OEM rotors (need to save $$$ for rims and tires this season!).

 

Well I just stopped by iGarage today to order the Centrics and Hawk HP Plus pads.

Funny note is when I got there I saw Footman's facebook open on Ivan's computer. Footman and Ivan must be in cahoots... Lol

 

what happened to doing it yourself? :p

 

Footman and Ivan are high school friends, and he can be very well trusted for your rx8 repair/maintenance needs!!! Good price gauranteed.

I'm soon ordering the DBA Clubspec T3 4000's from him!

 

Is Ivan a rotary specialist ?? Has he worked on alot of rotaries ?? Im thinking of starting to get my maintenance done by him.

 

^ lol footman you might be alone on the rotors after all - cls wants to measure his rotors too ; considering machining them if they are still in tip top shape like mine. you'll have the most ballin rotors out of all of us :D

 

I have obtained engineering documents of the DBA Clubspec T3 4000 rotors for the RX-8.

Front OEM rotors: 18.5 Lbs
DBA's: 17.60 Lbs
Weight saving: 4.86% or 0.9 Lbs

Rear OEM rotors: 12.5 Lbs
DBA's: 11.88 Lbs
Weight saving: 4.96% or 0.62 Lbs

I won't get into the engineering comparisons of a lighter weight rotors because that would also depend on the uniformity in which the weight is distributed, along with the construction material. There are simply too many variables because the OEM rotor's material composition is certainly not the same as DBA's rotors. I'm simply going to let people judge how they want to see it. I am presenting data.

 

Not to say anything bad about Scarbo Mazda here, but last time I went for oil change, and they said my brake pads only have 2mm left, and it is EXTREMELY dangerous to drive, they said. Then they said I need to change rotor + pads right away, and quoted me $950-ish..... Then I am like, wow, my RX-8 only has 34,xxxkm, already need new rotors? I end up went to iGarage (Thanks for Footman's referral), then changed to Hawk Pads HPS. Ivan at iGarage said my stock pads are still fine, not really that EXTREMELY dangerous to drive with. Still have quite alot of life on the pads until I need replacement. That's my recent experience with Scarbo Mazda.

 

^ Ka Kui i had a similar experience. They said my pads were thin as well and need to get replaced asap. At that time i didnt know **** about rotors and pads and was freaking out cause they said it was dangerous as well. Then at work during my break this mechanic from the VW dealer beside my work was having a smoke and asked him to have a look. He measured them and said they were fine for like another 5000 km.

 

^ Exactly, not sure why they doing this..... I am sure my stock pads can last 5,000km or more as well.... anyhow, cuz of them, I forced myself to change to Hawk pads now, and kind of feel bad, since I know my stock pads are still fine for now..... (Would rather spend money on FD for Spring preparation)

 

Ivan is not a rotary specialist, but he can take care of all the usual maintenance items such as oil change, fluid flush, radiator flush, brakes/pads/coolant, wheel stuff... etc.. etc...

And for all those things I mentioned, they are not "rotary specific", so all you need is a really good trustworthy mechanic that won't screw you over.

Down to the rotary specific stuff, you have the forum and other people like me, there's only so much you can do.. ignition coils/plugs/starter/battery/seafoam/intake.. and those I and others here can easily do and can help you.

So when it comes down to the really rotary specific stuff i.e. INSIDE THE HOUSING, if you're at that point of the condition of you car, you probably need to take it to Mazmart/Mazdees or someone like that to rebuild it for you.

For everything else, there's Ivan @ iGarage 905-471-8595, mention my referral to get best prices/service.

...And no I am not receiving any commission or referral fees, simply doing a great recommendation for people.

 

Yes, I have a digital caliper, last week I measured Druggist's rotors and determined that he didn't need new ones, he just needed them turned to get rid of pad deposits.

If you want your calipers measured, come out to a wash meet or something and I'll do it for you.

For reference:
Front rotor MAX/MIN: 24.0mm / 22.0mm
Rear rotor MAX/MIN: 18.0mm / 16.0mm

I have lots of other tools to help too, like battery tester, and an amp clamp so I could see if your alternator is putting out the right amount of current...

 

Jesus Footman, where do you get all these fancy toys? :P

 

lol Im a lazy, lazy man...

In my defense, I have a shopping list of things to do to the car!!! so I figured instead of asking iGarage to do a few things, might as well get him to do everything if I go there anyways :P

Yes - I highly suggest you guys measure out the rotors before changing - mine are still at factory thickness so I'm no longer buying new rotors but rather getting the shop to just machine it for me to get rid of all the glaze and crap built on it.

 

I got a crazy good deal on DBA Rotors and hawk hps pads..braking has improved, the pads make only a bit of noise when you come to.a stop and go..duration maybe 2-3 seconds.. So far I am impressed with the quality and braking improvement..i need to.flush my brake fluid and then it will be even better.

 

A Note on Pad deposits.....

Acetone has worked every time for me. take a terrycloth towel, soak it, wipe down the disk.

Does not remove material, is a hell of a lot easier than sanding.

This is a NO SMOKING procedure...