01Racing

For those of you who have said to me "well, I read this on the forums or on the internet and they say it works really well........" this is my recent experience.

1st I should know better, but didnt follow my own advise. I read on a rotary forum about converting a distributor fired ignition to direct fire. Again I should have known better, but I didnt. We switched it over and fired it up and wow it was so crisp at idle etc. I couldnt believe the internet was right!

Went to the track thinking wow is this going to fast now! No more fouled spark plugs, no more loading up the carb at low speed etc! Take the car out and warm it up everything is fine, and start to get on the power. The car feels different, I remember it seeming faster down the backstraight at Shannonville, but it must be me. Do about 5 laps and the come in the pits to make some chassis adjustments, and just for fun go back to the distributor fired ignition just to see how much slower it will be. We dont have a speedmeter but the tachometer doesnt lie. With the direct fire we were at about 7500rpm in 3rd gear down the backstraight before braking for the turn. After a warm up lap (with distributor fired ignition factory set up) I get on the power and the car is tremondously faster! We are now turning over 9000rpm before the braking zone, speed wise about 50kmh faster.

Moral of the story, unless there is hard factual data you can read and see for yourself, its probably a bunch of crap or someone trying to sell something!

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Amen...

This is why I am not so keen on things like BHR coils... there's simply no hard factual data to prove its benefits.

01Racing

Footman you will like this just follow the link to MSD Ignition coil components lol
http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx?taxid=6&taxid2=76 It is their high performance replacement for GM coils lol.

Another internet and following advise without actual proof......Last year I removed my transmission cooler because it was getting noisy etc and didnt replace it because the other people racing rotaries told me I didnt need it. I them spoke to a guy named Roger Mandeville, who is one of the founding fathers of racing rotaries etc, he has to be in his 70's or 80's now. He used to make special racing gear boxes out of the stock case to bolt in production cars. I had phoned him to see if he still had any or parts to make one. Long story short I told him I removed my cooler, and he asked why on earth I would have done such a dumb thing, someone put it there for a good reason! . When I told him he said "son, you have Porsche club syndrome". I said what the heck is that? He said some idiot does something and posts it and all the other idiots follow..........lol.

ZmFnZm

People can be like lemmings.

Redshift

iTrader: (2)

I'm torn now... I was running Direct Fire on my race 7, but went back to using the distributor because you said so. You're just a person on the internet too... now I'm confused...

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

It's not just the internet, before online forums we had real meets and a lot of people would pick one particular car they liked and copy it. Or, they would copy things that guys that tracked their cars did which is stupid if you don't track your car. It's all personal choice. If you make purchases and decisions without doing proper research or gathering data then you will have to live with your decision when it doesn't work out.

I did a lot of research on coils and such and when you do the numbers, the BHR kit is a good deal. I have not heard of BHR coils failing in less than a year (which my factory coils have done) and the alternatives to the BHR kit are far more expensive

01Racing

What were your results? What kind of timing are you running? we run 20 deg lead and 15deg trail with no mechanical advance. Did you ever get a smaller carb to try? We can get 141mph out of our car up the backstraight at Mosport which is pretty good speed for a little 1.3 lol

Redshift

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, don't really know yet. Converted it over the winter, missed the first race weekend due to truck/trailer issues, had a transmission failure early into the second weekend, and the last weekend got rescheduled. Hopefully everything will come together the weekend after next and we'll know how it works. For what it's worth, it sounds happier, and revs quicker than it did before. Has a little more "edge" to the engine note. (Not very scientific, I know.) But we had a lot of electrical issues we fixed as well. Basically re-wired the car.
We landed at about 20 deg leading as well. (We think... setting timing was a new one for us.)

141mp/h? Wow.. I'd run out of track WAY before that at our tight little course. Nice to see you guys getting some results from all the time and effort.

rx 8speciale

iTrader: (3)

even with some data all cars all difeerent so the results are inconclusive . for example some intakes create bad idles after installation resulting in lose of power and hot air induction . me personally will stay stock for now in my engine but will upgrade to turbo or supercharge when i save enough money, i will upgade to a accesport unit for ecu , suspension components and exhaust .

01Racing

I have spoken to lots of our RX8 customers about turbo, superchargers etc. One thing that must be realized is tha apex seals in the RX8 are very small and light weight compared to older rotaries. If you run any substainial boost pressures (enought to make a real horsepower difference for the money invested) they will fail. Its not a matter of if they fail, just a matter of when. To properly put boost into a RX8 engine you would have to machine the rotors to accept old style 3mm apex seals and use the ceramic ones. The Ianetti seals are something like $2600.00 or more. Thats not to mention the costs of upgrading fuel systems, computers etc. I know 2 or 3 people who read on the internet their stock engine would take Xamount of boost and blew up their engines in fairly short order. When they questioned the companies etc they got the usual "must be an installation issue".

To spend thousands of dollars to safely run 4-5 lbs of boost and gain 20-30 horsepower, you can get the same effect by removing about 200-300lbs of weight out of the car and that would be a lot cheaper to do lol.

nate340

but alan what about all the people on the forums that are claiming to have 350whp and been bosted for 100 000km with out issues?

im just bugging you. the only way im ever going FI is when i have enough for a spare motor.

right now its making more sense for me to buy a NB miata and supercharge it and use it as a track toy

outinnowhere3193

iTrader: (2)

100000km??? lol I don't know that many that's running some decent boost that would claim that.... Maybe a greddy kit pushing 5 psi...but anyone pushing 10+ from my experience you have to be very cautious.. I shift at like 8500 I don't get above 4k till the engine is good and hot... my ignition timing ATD when in boost so I'm not getting my true power that I should. I'm afraid to advance it for the risk of blowing the engine. But I boost 14psi and guessing I'm in the 450 area in power at the wheels. At 60mph I can still with straight throttle do nothing but spin the tires.

rotarygreg

and how long have you been running the car like this?

outinnowhere3193

iTrader: (2)

14psi....has been around 6 months. I haven't had it on the track at this amount of boost just done a few take offs first and second and the occasional down shift and pass a group of cars just cause I have the power too. Most of the time my electric boost controller boost me to 10 or so. I have the rx7 2mm seals in my car. The groove was cut deeper...but so far everything is all good. I use pettit racings additive in every tank as well. I'm also working on a new different design for the rotors.... hopefully making the seal better, removing the use of the oil metering pump, and being able to make a whole lot more power and be actually a stable engine.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

.................................................. .................................

01Racing

Just out of curiousity, if you were machining the rotors why didnt you go to the 3mm Ianetti ceramic seals that are almost builett proof? Thay can take serious boost so I understand.

outinnowhere3193

iTrader: (2)

I kinda argued the same thing with Cam at pettit... But like he said they haven't made a engine with the 3mm since like 83 or something...Cause I said bigger...means stronger...and they don't seal as good but who cares I'm turbo'd. And his response was not sealing can ignite the charge on the otherside of the seal!!!! I never thought of that. He said he's opened a few and seen where it has happened. But everything I threw at him he had something to throw back. He may be wrong or may be right. Either way it's his choice and he's standing behind the engine!!!

nate340

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...02#post9616302

Thief

I hate to generalize, but anyone who types like that is probably an idiot.

nate340

i know i hate this guy. annoys the **** out of me.

scottish

iTrader: (1)

yeah way to go outinnowhere3193 nice post in the RX7 forum cause cam doesn't know what he's talking about and you are a pro tuner.how about letting Cam tune your motor and maybe it wouldn't blow up so often.i guess being dumb is better than being a dumbass YA DUMB ***!

nate340

i am impressed with cam rebuilding the engine for free. specialy since the tune had been altered by the owner.

scottish

iTrader: (1)

if i was Cam i would have told him to stick it up his ****! fix it yourself. this kid has been watching THE FAST AND THE FURIOUS to many times.asking for peoples advise but doesn't listen then argues he is still right.all i can say is the proof is in the pudding.he has dicked around with his motor so much that he is to scared to drive the car now in fear he may blow it up.im sure Cam is a specialist too just like you are a railway repair specialist.leave it to the pros

outinnowhere3193

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't bashing cam by no means. like I said on the other form it's his ignition timing and he told me where to put the afr's. I don't believe it really had to do with all of that...I'm just finding out...like I've said on the form I believe it to be a side seal but I figure it's not it's a apex seal again. So I was more less looking for someone to tell me that my ignition map is good. I know my afr's or should I said I'm pretty sure a steady afr between 10.9 and 11.1 is pretty good. All I said is it's hard for cam to tune my car when I'm in indiana I'm not saying his work isn't great nor am I saying he's responsible. Sorry if I decided to go somewhere else and ask questions. Sorry if they seem to come off wrong. It's not that I'm bashing it's that I'm looking for answered. Making sure what I got is the same as what I'm told.

Hell just like 01racing asking why I didn't go 3mm... I hear it left and right 3mm the greatest you can get...and then hear from cam and banzia saying 3mm isn't all that and they don't recommend them. There is this and that threw out this site..some say this some say that. I ask what I need and I turn things around and question things not from what I think but from what I've heard from others. I don't know for a fact what's bullshit and what's fact. You guys know there is a lot of people that give advice or say this or that...that don't know what they are talking about. I'm just human and learning over the net knowing nothing about each and every one of you. If I've learned anything it's you can't trust what someone says you have to get it from others as well..and others from different area that know there ****.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Just curious, do all Canadians spell advice "advise?" [noun vs. verb]