Canada available pre-mix
#1
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Canada available pre-mix
What oil do you use for pre-mixing in canada, thats easily available ?
I honnestly dont feel like ordering stuff on the internet all the time.
Any good oil us canadians are using thats easily available ?
like at Canadian Tire or Napa/UAP, etc... ?
Thanks.
I honnestly dont feel like ordering stuff on the internet all the time.
Any good oil us canadians are using thats easily available ?
like at Canadian Tire or Napa/UAP, etc... ?
Thanks.
#2
Metatron
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CanTire, Shell Advance Full Synthetic, ISO-EGD rated.
http://www.pmaviation.co.uk/catalog/...tle-p-334.html
For snowmobiles and Rotax engines, so great for our motor, just avoid boat oil.
S
http://www.pmaviation.co.uk/catalog/...tle-p-334.html
For snowmobiles and Rotax engines, so great for our motor, just avoid boat oil.
S
#6
Grand Chancellor
The Pre-mix thread are in gallons and oz. What would be the measurement in metrics?
Using the 400:1 ratio: Say 60L (full tank) how many L or ml of premix..... 150ml?
Using the 400:1 ratio: Say 60L (full tank) how many L or ml of premix..... 150ml?
#7
Rebuilds anyone?
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100:1 is what I always pre-mix to.
60L tank gets 600mL of oil.
Make sure the oil is rated TCW-3 or it will settle to the bottem of the tank. TCW-3 oils are designed to actually mix with the fuel.
60L tank gets 600mL of oil.
Make sure the oil is rated TCW-3 or it will settle to the bottem of the tank. TCW-3 oils are designed to actually mix with the fuel.
#9
Rebuilds anyone?
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60L is alot of fluid also
I premixed a daily driven RX-7 for 3 months using 100:1 ratio and it didnt seem to smoke abnormally once warmed up. I also didnt have an OMP hooked up.
BTW premixing everyday at the pumps for 3 months really sucks
I premixed a daily driven RX-7 for 3 months using 100:1 ratio and it didnt seem to smoke abnormally once warmed up. I also didnt have an OMP hooked up.
BTW premixing everyday at the pumps for 3 months really sucks
Last edited by R.P.M.; 02-26-2008 at 12:18 AM.
#12
Metatron
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150:1 is lots because the original OMP is still functioning.
If you fill at the warning light, the tank will take 50 litres, so 150:1 would be about 333 mls, or ten ounces.
I would avoid TCW-3 oil unless it is also rated ISO-EGD or JASO-FC or better. Boat oil that meets either of these standards is OK.
S
My sig is just a quote from some random critic of the whole idea of pre-mix.....
If you fill at the warning light, the tank will take 50 litres, so 150:1 would be about 333 mls, or ten ounces.
I would avoid TCW-3 oil unless it is also rated ISO-EGD or JASO-FC or better. Boat oil that meets either of these standards is OK.
S
My sig is just a quote from some random critic of the whole idea of pre-mix.....
#13
Rebuilds anyone?
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I used cheap 2 stroke premix oil. Something like $3-5 a litre. So putting in half a litre per tank doesnt cost that much.
Never had any problems with fuel filters ever.
At the time, I dont think there was such a product.....Im talking years ago when I was just a young buck
Never had any problems with fuel filters ever.
At the time, I dont think there was such a product.....Im talking years ago when I was just a young buck
#15
Pre mix?
premixing is for Two stroke engines.
THESE ENGINES ARE NOT TWO STROKERS.
You will get carbon build up on your rotor tips and will scratch your chamber wall and loose compression. YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
Use only the 5W20 oil wich needs to burn of clean.
Cheers.
THESE ENGINES ARE NOT TWO STROKERS.
You will get carbon build up on your rotor tips and will scratch your chamber wall and loose compression. YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
Use only the 5W20 oil wich needs to burn of clean.
Cheers.
#16
Is this stuff okay?
According to Shell publication:
http://www.shell.com/static/ca-en/do...cants/1-14.pdf
According to Shell publication:
http://www.shell.com/static/ca-en/do...cants/1-14.pdf
Shell Advance Snow Ultra High Performance Synthetic Snowmobile Oil is specially formulated to pro vide superior engine
protection in all high performance snowmobile engines. This low ash, full synthetic formulation exceeds the highest requirements
in the industry categories recognized by snowmobile manufacturers including API TC, ISO-EGD and the JASO FC standard.
protection in all high performance snowmobile engines. This low ash, full synthetic formulation exceeds the highest requirements
in the industry categories recognized by snowmobile manufacturers including API TC, ISO-EGD and the JASO FC standard.
#17
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Marcel I can see you are new here.
You should read up on the tech section threads about, oil, pre-mixing, etc...
All Rotary engines survive better with pre-mixing.
5W20 is debatable. Seems 5W30 is whats bests.
Pre-mixing is for engines that require lubrication for the seals. Rotary engines fit in that category.
The new Renesis engine has more lubrication, which would show that ours probably needs it as well.
Look up posts by RotaryGod, you'll see what I mean.
You should read up on the tech section threads about, oil, pre-mixing, etc...
All Rotary engines survive better with pre-mixing.
5W20 is debatable. Seems 5W30 is whats bests.
Pre-mixing is for engines that require lubrication for the seals. Rotary engines fit in that category.
The new Renesis engine has more lubrication, which would show that ours probably needs it as well.
Look up posts by RotaryGod, you'll see what I mean.
#18
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I have been using 4oz/tank of Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle:
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=3&loc=show
But I plan in switching to Amsoil Saber Professional:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=3&loc=show
But I plan in switching to Amsoil Saber Professional:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx
#19
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Thanks for the input.
I have found some Amsoil SABER Professional today, and will be trying it out. It was about 16$ with tax at a local Bike shop.
I think Bike shops are our best bet for finding this stuff.
BTW, found out a friend of mine used to have a ROTAX engine on his little paraplane or glider, whatever they are called. He no longer has it, but has a galon left of the premix he was using. He'll check out what it is and if its good, he'll give it to me. Hopefully its something I can use
I have found some Amsoil SABER Professional today, and will be trying it out. It was about 16$ with tax at a local Bike shop.
I think Bike shops are our best bet for finding this stuff.
BTW, found out a friend of mine used to have a ROTAX engine on his little paraplane or glider, whatever they are called. He no longer has it, but has a galon left of the premix he was using. He'll check out what it is and if its good, he'll give it to me. Hopefully its something I can use
#21
pre-mix
Guys, when I take my 2007 RX8 out for a good run on average I will have to add about a 250 ml to 500ml of oil to bring it back to where it should be on the dipstick.
If you make the calculations the metering pump injects morethan enough oil to lubricate the rotor tips. The main bearings are pressure lubricated by an oil pump
using motor oil. A two stroke engine depends on the pre-mix oil to lubricate the bearings and needle bearings on the connecting rods and wristpins.The rotary engine does not need pre-mix in the fuel. Also by premixing you may plug your catalatic converter due to carbon and ash build up if not driven hard at a regular basis to burn it of. Premixing should in my opinion be not neccesary unless in extreme hot temperatures and continuous operation in the upper part of your tach. The latter will result in a no driver license situation. Mazda's metering system
works verry well. (to offer a 100.000km warranty thisystem has been proven over and over). Any ways this is only my personal opinion on this matter.
Cheers,
If you make the calculations the metering pump injects morethan enough oil to lubricate the rotor tips. The main bearings are pressure lubricated by an oil pump
using motor oil. A two stroke engine depends on the pre-mix oil to lubricate the bearings and needle bearings on the connecting rods and wristpins.The rotary engine does not need pre-mix in the fuel. Also by premixing you may plug your catalatic converter due to carbon and ash build up if not driven hard at a regular basis to burn it of. Premixing should in my opinion be not neccesary unless in extreme hot temperatures and continuous operation in the upper part of your tach. The latter will result in a no driver license situation. Mazda's metering system
works verry well. (to offer a 100.000km warranty thisystem has been proven over and over). Any ways this is only my personal opinion on this matter.
Cheers,
#22
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I think again you should read up on the posts here.
The amount of engine problems is one thing.
But also, the fact that the new renesis has more oil injectors.
If that doesnt prove that the engine needs more oil, Im not sure what will convince you.
The amount of engine problems is one thing.
But also, the fact that the new renesis has more oil injectors.
If that doesnt prove that the engine needs more oil, Im not sure what will convince you.
#23
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sorry guys, I knw this might be a stupid question but I really wondered that do we add these premix oil to gas tank or engine oil tank? I really wanna make sure cuz I don't wanna screw up the engine....><