Winton Raceway Track Day - 20th March 2006
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne, Australia
The video is sick 
. I love the speedo and tacho as a PIP and the underground shot is fully sick. 
Sorry, hopefully you are not comparing speed, but I cannot get such exposure right for my video. Any idea Tim? I locked the exposure already but get a lot of shades. I do want to show what gear I am in though. So I need to show the shifter.
http://www.alwstudios.net/rx8club/ta...on-20-3-06.mpg
. I love the speedo and tacho as a PIP and the underground shot is fully sick. Sorry, hopefully you are not comparing speed, but I cannot get such exposure right for my video. Any idea Tim? I locked the exposure already but get a lot of shades. I do want to show what gear I am in though. So I need to show the shifter.
http://www.alwstudios.net/rx8club/ta...on-20-3-06.mpg
Shootin' from the hip
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
Originally Posted by auzoom
Dave,
I am sorry mate. Didnt mean to upset you. Box of tissues in the mail mate!
I was just stirring, but obviously you are happy to give but not take.
Jormatom,
As I just mention, I was only stirring Dave as he has a tendancy to get stuck into a number of people for no apparant reason I thought he would be open to a little banter himself.
As you can see from a number of posts I have made in this thread alone, I am all for people driving the way they want and feel comfortable driving.
Now that the apple cart has been upset, I better sign off before I get my hand smacked
I am sorry mate. Didnt mean to upset you. Box of tissues in the mail mate!
I was just stirring, but obviously you are happy to give but not take.
Jormatom,
As I just mention, I was only stirring Dave as he has a tendancy to get stuck into a number of people for no apparant reason I thought he would be open to a little banter himself.
As you can see from a number of posts I have made in this thread alone, I am all for people driving the way they want and feel comfortable driving.
Now that the apple cart has been upset, I better sign off before I get my hand smacked
No tears here mate. I obviously misunderstood your post. As you should be aware, I'm happy to take it as well as give it. I thought you were seriously pissed off about me going off topic (in line with some earlier complaints you've posted) and just wanted to explain myself. In hindsight my "precious" remark was a bit pathetic but I was a bit frustrated. Bygones - put it down to the weaknesses of this kind of communication.
Perhaps if you're having a dig instead of expressing some sort of serious outrage you should stick in a
or something so I can see you're just having a bit of fun.As to me getting stuck into people for no apparent reason - que??
I know I can be a bit of a stirrer but I've only had a real go at a very few people in here and thought I was justified at the time. Perhaps my sense of humour isn't for everyone? 
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne, Australia
************************************************** ************
Revolver
Could you please talk about the Winton track day
.
You guys are kiss and "make out" somewhere more privately. This is taking the shine off the video that MIRX*8 has made.
************************************************** ************
MIRX*8 - do you set your exposure to auto? I did that and the outside is over expose.
astro and MIRX*8 - do you think I should have the camera slightly higher and to the left??
Revolver
Could you please talk about the Winton track day
.You guys are kiss and "make out" somewhere more privately. This is taking the shine off the
video that MIRX*8 has made. ************************************************** ************
MIRX*8 - do you set your exposure to auto? I did that and the outside is over expose.
astro and MIRX*8 - do you think I should have the camera slightly higher and to the left??
Thread Starter
Hmmmmmm.........
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne, Australia
Dave...peace dude...check you PM in a few minutes....back on topic.
Taka, Tim had a number of pin hole cameras hooked up to his car. I believe he had one (possibly 2) on the bottom of the front bumber and one on his steering wheel hub pointing at the speedo.
Tim, the video is awesome! I seriously have to get me one of those magic arms and the pinhole cameras. Links anyone?
Taka, Tim had a number of pin hole cameras hooked up to his car. I believe he had one (possibly 2) on the bottom of the front bumber and one on his steering wheel hub pointing at the speedo.
Tim, the video is awesome! I seriously have to get me one of those magic arms and the pinhole cameras. Links anyone?
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne, Australia
Yeah he showed me the receiver of the pinhole camera. Highly technical and quite like a detective work. I think the pinhole outside are signalled via bluetooth? ($$$$).
The kit that we are using is the Manfrotto Magic Arm, which is used as a lightly support product.
http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/cache...lsf=31&child=2
I can be used as a clamp (recommended) or a suction cup on the rear screen.
The kit that we are using is the Manfrotto Magic Arm, which is used as a lightly support product.
http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/cache...lsf=31&child=2
I can be used as a clamp (recommended) or a suction cup on the rear screen.
Thread Starter
Hmmmmmm.........
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne, Australia
OK found the majic arm from Teds....Do you need the "Super Clamp" I remember (I think it was Tim or was it joel) saying that he didnt use the clamp, just tapped out the thread of the spare tyre thread on the sway bar.
trust me..this wont hurt
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 0
From: Adelaide, Australia
Jeez, dave 3 track attempts, a major bingle and a minor bingle and you've become all things to track work, it only took me about 2 years to get to drive with some real competitive competence, but hey I guess you're the boss!
By the way the 10K needed to make a 5 competitive, try 25K for starters. i spent 60K.
By the way the 10K needed to make a 5 competitive, try 25K for starters. i spent 60K.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by auzoom
OK found the majic arm from Teds....Do you need the "Super Clamp" I remember (I think it was Tim or was it joel) saying that he didnt use the clamp, just tapped out the thread of the spare tyre thread on the sway bar.
A clamp is required since there is a free end to the magic arm that has to attach to something. Either a clamp or a suction cup.
Thread Starter
Hmmmmmm.........
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by AMG
By the way the 10K needed to make a 5 competitive, try 25K for starters. i spent 60K.
Andrew
Shootin' from the hip
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
Originally Posted by AMG
Jeez, dave 3 track attempts, a major bingle and a minor bingle and you've become all things to track work, it only took me about 2 years to get to drive with some real competitive competence, but hey I guess you're the boss!
By the way the 10K needed to make a 5 competitive, try 25K for starters. i spent 60K.
By the way the 10K needed to make a 5 competitive, try 25K for starters. i spent 60K.
Is there some reason why you couldn't have put that in a PM??I've never claimed to be an authority on anything here or that I'm boss of anyone. I'm simply sharing what I intended to do as a matter of general interest and thought I made it clear that I respect the views of others on the subject. We've all got different budgets and risk thresholds.
BTW, good on you for spending 60K but I'm not setting out to have the fastest, most competitive track car - just something to learn with and have a bit of fun in. Something that's rapidly getting to be in short supply for me here.
Apologies all for going off-topic.
Registered
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, Victoria
Originally Posted by Revolver
We've all got different budgets and risk thresholds.
BTW, good on you for spending 60K but I'm not setting out to have the fastest, most competitive track car - just something to learn with and have a bit of fun in. Something that's rapidly getting to be in short supply for me here.
Apologies all for going off-topic.
BTW, good on you for spending 60K but I'm not setting out to have the fastest, most competitive track car - just something to learn with and have a bit of fun in. Something that's rapidly getting to be in short supply for me here.
Apologies all for going off-topic.
Isn't this the point we all started discussing? "We've all got different budgets and risk thresholds." It's not a competition guys. Can't see why everyone is getting worked up here.
Dave, you once told me to use more of these
so that I wouldn't come across so serious. So here's some more. Off topic?
Well you wouldn't be the first and definiately not the last.BTW, great vid Tim.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by auzoom
Joel, you were talking about the brake bleeder. Very interested to see it and how it works.
Andrew
Andrew
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Great video Tim! It's fantabulous!
Taka... last time I checked ur video setup... it was fine. I think it's best to have the camera slightly to the left - just so the images shows a little bit of the side to show "speed". Your camera angle looks spot on.
I also had an issue with EV exposure. My exposure was also set to auto... but that was a very bright day and perhaps manually adjusting would've solved the issues.
Very impressive editing there Tim! Taka... you need to setup a pin-hole camera on your speedo. It would be so cool to see the speed you are runnning on track... compared to turtles like me.
I agree... we should do Winton again sometime in the year. PUT me in the very interested list.
Taka... last time I checked ur video setup... it was fine. I think it's best to have the camera slightly to the left - just so the images shows a little bit of the side to show "speed". Your camera angle looks spot on.
I also had an issue with EV exposure. My exposure was also set to auto... but that was a very bright day and perhaps manually adjusting would've solved the issues.
Very impressive editing there Tim! Taka... you need to setup a pin-hole camera on your speedo. It would be so cool to see the speed you are runnning on track... compared to turtles like me.
I agree... we should do Winton again sometime in the year. PUT me in the very interested list.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Thanks for the comments...i just love putting those videos together...it's a labour of love...and Im glad its appreciated.
Taka, I agree with astro, I think your in car set up is fine and I use auto all the time. The only difference that I notice is that I use a lens flare (kind of like a hood for the lens) that stops flickering light entering the lens from the side, basically the lens is taking all the light from the front and since the rear of the car is relatively dark at any time (lightwise) then you get a reasonable balance. I used the magic arm as you know, clamped (Andrew) to the rear spare tyre bar - I found using the clamp at the point a lot easier for grip than anywhere else on the bar. I use a camera release mount on the other end (you need to order this as part of the arm) and between the camera and the mount I used some sponge to help absorb some of the movement. But personally, i like the movement that I got with the camer because it is more realistic and certainly still watchable.
As for the other camera's my in-car set up was far from perfect and I will do it differently next time. I was affixing the first pinhole camera (ebay - $60-$70) which was NOT remote to the dash using bluetac and then recording directly to a DVR handheld ($250 from ALDI - cheaper types $170 - ebay). This means cables across the dash and around/near steering column and I dont think that is practicle (or safe - and I drove slower knowing this) so my next choice for that will be remote. You just have to attach the camera then to a battery which sends the signal to the DVR which can be placed anywhere (in the cupholder spot) that is safe. But this records at 320x240 so you'll never get high resolution, however it's perfect for home/sport video stuff and PiP.
I had 3 other remote cameras but the day before I could only get ONE of them to work so the one I used to get the low shots i mounted to the inside Bumper (in front of the hymee grill) secured using velcro and some plastic ties to the grill - quite stable. The receiver was really useless and I'll probably never use it again. I took almost 30-40 minutes of images using that camera and probably less than 1m was useful. I had to use an in car power converter since the battery was not providing enough juice for the signal and tie it all to the seats. But the movement was such that the signal was distorted really quickly....useless.
It was a good lesson though and I know now that the front bumper produces great results - just need to get the right camera and that I need to get a better solution for the Tacho and Gear Change.
It's another matter pulling it all together for editing. Although the frame rate is the same (in most cases) sizing can be an issue where you are rendering with different resolutions - I use a programme that renders at the higest available resolution but it's noticeably different. Then there is the issue of TIMING. You have 3 recording devices - perhaps one or 2 with sound and you have to try to edit it together.....nightmare.
The other point that I think is important is that I also had a Manfrotto suction mount for a drivers side camera which would have provided a choice of shots, either gear or driver....BUT.....suction is not possible on windows that have been Tinted as I found out. I tested it on glass...works great but tested on my car with tinted windows...no suction anywhere....I am now swapping that piece of equipment for another Magic Arm
I'll be doing a DVD of Winton and will include all the visual stuff I got with all camera's but I would rather edit with some faster lap stuff so Taka and Astro, if you are up for it, send me the footage (at least 2-3 laps) and we'll put together a 10-15 minutes DVD.
I'm looking forward to the next day when i can further test these cameras and their appropriate setups.
Taka, I agree with astro, I think your in car set up is fine and I use auto all the time. The only difference that I notice is that I use a lens flare (kind of like a hood for the lens) that stops flickering light entering the lens from the side, basically the lens is taking all the light from the front and since the rear of the car is relatively dark at any time (lightwise) then you get a reasonable balance. I used the magic arm as you know, clamped (Andrew) to the rear spare tyre bar - I found using the clamp at the point a lot easier for grip than anywhere else on the bar. I use a camera release mount on the other end (you need to order this as part of the arm) and between the camera and the mount I used some sponge to help absorb some of the movement. But personally, i like the movement that I got with the camer because it is more realistic and certainly still watchable.
As for the other camera's my in-car set up was far from perfect and I will do it differently next time. I was affixing the first pinhole camera (ebay - $60-$70) which was NOT remote to the dash using bluetac and then recording directly to a DVR handheld ($250 from ALDI - cheaper types $170 - ebay). This means cables across the dash and around/near steering column and I dont think that is practicle (or safe - and I drove slower knowing this) so my next choice for that will be remote. You just have to attach the camera then to a battery which sends the signal to the DVR which can be placed anywhere (in the cupholder spot) that is safe. But this records at 320x240 so you'll never get high resolution, however it's perfect for home/sport video stuff and PiP.
I had 3 other remote cameras but the day before I could only get ONE of them to work
so the one I used to get the low shots i mounted to the inside Bumper (in front of the hymee grill) secured using velcro and some plastic ties to the grill - quite stable. The receiver was really useless and I'll probably never use it again. I took almost 30-40 minutes of images using that camera and probably less than 1m was useful. I had to use an in car power converter since the battery was not providing enough juice for the signal and tie it all to the seats. But the movement was such that the signal was distorted really quickly....useless.It was a good lesson though and I know now that the front bumper produces great results - just need to get the right camera and that I need to get a better solution for the Tacho and Gear Change.
It's another matter pulling it all together for editing. Although the frame rate is the same (in most cases) sizing can be an issue where you are rendering with different resolutions - I use a programme that renders at the higest available resolution but it's noticeably different. Then there is the issue of TIMING. You have 3 recording devices - perhaps one or 2 with sound and you have to try to edit it together.....nightmare.
The other point that I think is important is that I also had a Manfrotto suction mount for a drivers side camera which would have provided a choice of shots, either gear or driver....BUT.....suction is not possible on windows that have been Tinted as I found out. I tested it on glass...works great but tested on my car with tinted windows...no suction anywhere....I am now swapping that piece of equipment for another Magic Arm
I'll be doing a DVD of Winton and will include all the visual stuff I got with all camera's but I would rather edit with some faster lap stuff so Taka and Astro, if you are up for it, send me the footage (at least 2-3 laps) and we'll put together a 10-15 minutes DVD.
I'm looking forward to the next day when i can further test these cameras and their appropriate setups.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 929
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by mirx*8
Thanks for the comments...i just love putting those videos together...it's a labour of love...and Im glad its appreciated.
Taka, I agree with astro, I think your in car set up is fine and I use auto all the time. The only difference that I notice is that I use a lens flare (kind of like a hood for the lens) that stops flickering light entering the lens from the side, basically the lens is taking all the light from the front and since the rear of the car is relatively dark at any time (lightwise) then you get a reasonable balance. I used the magic arm as you know, clamped (Andrew) to the rear spare tyre bar - I found using the clamp at the point a lot easier for grip than anywhere else on the bar. I use a camera release mount on the other end (you need to order this as part of the arm) and between the camera and the mount I used some sponge to help absorb some of the movement. But personally, i like the movement that I got with the camer because it is more realistic and certainly still watchable.
As for the other camera's my in-car set up was far from perfect and I will do it differently next time. I was affixing the first pinhole camera (ebay - $60-$70) which was NOT remote to the dash using bluetac and then recording directly to a DVR handheld ($250 from ALDI - cheaper types $170 - ebay). This means cables across the dash and around/near steering column and I dont think that is practicle (or safe - and I drove slower knowing this) so my next choice for that will be remote. You just have to attach the camera then to a battery which sends the signal to the DVR which can be placed anywhere (in the cupholder spot) that is safe. But this records at 320x240 so you'll never get high resolution, however it's perfect for home/sport video stuff and PiP.
I had 3 other remote cameras but the day before I could only get ONE of them to work so the one I used to get the low shots i mounted to the inside Bumper (in front of the hymee grill) secured using velcro and some plastic ties to the grill - quite stable. The receiver was really useless and I'll probably never use it again. I took almost 30-40 minutes of images using that camera and probably less than 1m was useful. I had to use an in car power converter since the battery was not providing enough juice for the signal and tie it all to the seats. But the movement was such that the signal was distorted really quickly....useless.
It was a good lesson though and I know now that the front bumper produces great results - just need to get the right camera and that I need to get a better solution for the Tacho and Gear Change.
It's another matter pulling it all together for editing. Although the frame rate is the same (in most cases) sizing can be an issue where you are rendering with different resolutions - I use a programme that renders at the higest available resolution but it's noticeably different. Then there is the issue of TIMING. You have 3 recording devices - perhaps one or 2 with sound and you have to try to edit it together.....nightmare.
The other point that I think is important is that I also had a Manfrotto suction mount for a drivers side camera which would have provided a choice of shots, either gear or driver....BUT.....suction is not possible on windows that have been Tinted as I found out. I tested it on glass...works great but tested on my car with tinted windows...no suction anywhere....I am now swapping that piece of equipment for another Magic Arm
I'll be doing a DVD of Winton and will include all the visual stuff I got with all camera's but I would rather edit with some faster lap stuff so Taka and Astro, if you are up for it, send me the footage (at least 2-3 laps) and we'll put together a 10-15 minutes DVD.
I'm looking forward to the next day when i can further test these cameras and their appropriate setups.
Taka, I agree with astro, I think your in car set up is fine and I use auto all the time. The only difference that I notice is that I use a lens flare (kind of like a hood for the lens) that stops flickering light entering the lens from the side, basically the lens is taking all the light from the front and since the rear of the car is relatively dark at any time (lightwise) then you get a reasonable balance. I used the magic arm as you know, clamped (Andrew) to the rear spare tyre bar - I found using the clamp at the point a lot easier for grip than anywhere else on the bar. I use a camera release mount on the other end (you need to order this as part of the arm) and between the camera and the mount I used some sponge to help absorb some of the movement. But personally, i like the movement that I got with the camer because it is more realistic and certainly still watchable.
As for the other camera's my in-car set up was far from perfect and I will do it differently next time. I was affixing the first pinhole camera (ebay - $60-$70) which was NOT remote to the dash using bluetac and then recording directly to a DVR handheld ($250 from ALDI - cheaper types $170 - ebay). This means cables across the dash and around/near steering column and I dont think that is practicle (or safe - and I drove slower knowing this) so my next choice for that will be remote. You just have to attach the camera then to a battery which sends the signal to the DVR which can be placed anywhere (in the cupholder spot) that is safe. But this records at 320x240 so you'll never get high resolution, however it's perfect for home/sport video stuff and PiP.
I had 3 other remote cameras but the day before I could only get ONE of them to work
so the one I used to get the low shots i mounted to the inside Bumper (in front of the hymee grill) secured using velcro and some plastic ties to the grill - quite stable. The receiver was really useless and I'll probably never use it again. I took almost 30-40 minutes of images using that camera and probably less than 1m was useful. I had to use an in car power converter since the battery was not providing enough juice for the signal and tie it all to the seats. But the movement was such that the signal was distorted really quickly....useless.It was a good lesson though and I know now that the front bumper produces great results - just need to get the right camera and that I need to get a better solution for the Tacho and Gear Change.
It's another matter pulling it all together for editing. Although the frame rate is the same (in most cases) sizing can be an issue where you are rendering with different resolutions - I use a programme that renders at the higest available resolution but it's noticeably different. Then there is the issue of TIMING. You have 3 recording devices - perhaps one or 2 with sound and you have to try to edit it together.....nightmare.
The other point that I think is important is that I also had a Manfrotto suction mount for a drivers side camera which would have provided a choice of shots, either gear or driver....BUT.....suction is not possible on windows that have been Tinted as I found out. I tested it on glass...works great but tested on my car with tinted windows...no suction anywhere....I am now swapping that piece of equipment for another Magic Arm
I'll be doing a DVD of Winton and will include all the visual stuff I got with all camera's but I would rather edit with some faster lap stuff so Taka and Astro, if you are up for it, send me the footage (at least 2-3 laps) and we'll put together a 10-15 minutes DVD.
I'm looking forward to the next day when i can further test these cameras and their appropriate setups.
A man with a passion
almost as expensive as his newly aquired track habbit. Great vid Tim!
