..................anyone else fry their brakes at the track?

I have to stand up in the seat to stop the bloody thing now!

Now wheres Ric's number about those trick brakes he had on his car.......................

I think these are what he uses


http://www.apracing.com/car/index.htm

 

someone burned their brakes

Yeah it is a very good brakes.

 

Brakes! Were we meant to use them?!!

No, mine are still pretty good, although I do sense they are a little less than before

 

Track days can be a little expensive....I had to replace 2 cracked crossdrilled rotors on the family truckster XR8 after a days fanging at Calder.....

I baby'd them and cooled them down after each session too..........

Gomez.

 

emack, how many laps did you do?

how much wear do you get from the tires from a day at the tracks. I have heard that track work can be severe on the rubbers.

skc

 

Lets see, probably about 50 laps all up over the course of the day.

Tyres weren't too bad, a bit of balling, but I thought they handled it pretty well...........the brakes were another thing!

 

I think the Re040 wears pretty good. I forgot howmany laps but I think it is about 220km... brakes and tyres are ok.. the engine sounds fine afterwards although I hit the limiter 3-4 times. I think I need a light warning - cant hear the warning noise thru the helmet

 

You cant hear the warning light over the reving engine let alone the helmet

 

I lost a little pedal as well, but not much.

I would recommend putting some "racing" brake fluid in before spending big bucks on calipers.

You loose the pedal because the brake fluid has "cooked" (boiled actually) and its chemical properties have changed, and no longer is as non-compressible as before.

There are 2 important properties in brake fluid. The "Dry Boiling Point" and the "Wet Boiling Point". The "Dry" is the temperature at which fresh fluid can be run up to. Once it goes over this temp it has boiled. The "Wet" is an indication of how well the fluid recovers - it is the new boiling point now that the fluid has been affected, and is normally a lot lower then the wet.

There are a few different DOT standards for fluids, but they specify the minmum requirements for each, so 2 brands in the same spec might still behave differently.

I did some research into it when I was concerned with the Commodore brakes.

The ultimate stuff is Shell Racing Brake Fluid at around $110 per litre from places like Super Cheap. I cant remember the boiling point specs.

I reckon the next best was Mutol. It was only a few degress lower in spec than the Shell, and was lots better than other "hi performance" fluids. I think it cost me about $25 for 2 x 250ml bottles. I got it from the Brock Shop. I got the old stuff properly flushed out at the workshop with the super sucker, before they put the new stuff in.

But I haven't touched the RX-8's brakes.

Hope the info helps!

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Anyone done anything with DOT 5 silicone fluid?

It's non-hygroscopic, my understanding is you must completely flush the old stuff out b4 using it...but not sure if the seals in the 8 are compatable with it, the manual specifies DOT 3 fluid.

Gomez.

 

And there is DOT5.1 as well just to confuse things