Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

No problem
Just cap the VFAD nipple behind the throttle body and take the car out for a drive.
Once the RPM goes above 5500 the valve will open and not have the ability to close since you removed its vacuum source.

treitz

Also. Rumor has it that removing the walls inside the intake + removing the VFAD can offer 1-2 miles per gallon better gas millage.

Is this true?

and if so, will capping the vacuum lines, etc, offer the same results? Or is this b/s to start?

Haven't had the car for long enough to really now, but I think removing the walls helped a little bit alone.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Oh boy... 1-2 MPG gain can be archived in more ways than an intake mod.
Driving at lower RPMs, more highway driving, etc.
So to say that this intake mod gained 1-2 MPG is questionable in my opinion.
Could have just been a coincidence.

treitz

True. I just don't want to rip the VFAD out and waste $70 for no reason.

so in your opinion K&N drop in / cone filter is worthless as well?

On a side not, when it's cold outside (below 30 degrees) my car takes more cranks to starts and stays revved at 3k RPM's for a while before it warms up and drops to 1k. Is that normal?

treitz

Alright. Now as far as capping the hose goes... I think I found where you capped it, but also see the hose coming up in another place... I think just before going into the "vacuum chamber" or whatever. Can I cap it at either place?

And do you have to clamp off the hose so it's not just hanging out in there? Or remove the portion of the hose between the 2?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

A K&N drop-in is fine.

Yes... though I've only seen 3K when it was REALLY cold outside.
More cranks to start could be a combination of old/original battery and/or original starter depending on the year of your car.
'04 and '05 had a weak starter.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Just cap the nipple behind the throttle body and I would remove the hose up to the vacuum chamber just so its not dangling around the belts.

No need to clamp anything. Only thing that is important is to cap the nipple behind the throttle body.

treitz

I capped it up above the vacuum chamber because I couldn't get my hands in underneath where you put your cap. Is that going to be ok?

On the side note. My car is a 04. I am taking it in on Friday to have a "power" recall done that was never done. Not sure what that means. I will see if they will check the starter while it's there.

Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know how she runs with the vacuum line capped.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Depends on what side exactly you capped.
This is why I recommend capping behind the throttle body because its easy to identify and now screw-up.
Read through this post and see if it will help clarify what you did:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=11

treitz

Here's what I capped... Drove it around, rough idle.

Do I need to cap where you capped, or do I need to reset my ECU, or did I do something wrong all the way around?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Don't see a pic... but I'm sure you did it wrong.
Just cap where I told you.

treitz

There's the pic...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

It really depends on what side you capped it and I can't tell by that pic.
This is why I don't bother mentioning the other places you can cap... too much confusion.
Just cap it behind the throttle body... VERY easy to reach.

treitz

Here is where I had it capped... The flashlight is shining right on the cap (it's black) and the cap is on a white plastic elbow piece between 2 hoses right above the vacuum chamber. But I got it capped where you did yours thanks to a flat head screw driver. Hopefully it works out better.

Now you mentioned that it will open up at 5500 RPM's. So there won't be any difference until 5500 RPM's?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The remaining vacuum probably bled-out from the first time you drove around.
So you might notice the sound is a little louder at lower RPMs than before.

treitz

Right on. Thanks for all your help.

Now I just gotta start saving my penny's to actually buy some stuff for this thing. I had NO idea after market parts were so bloody expensive! lol.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Since you're N/A and obviously looking for performance gains, here is a list:
1) Mid-pipe
2) Light-weight flywheel
3) BHR Ignition coils
4) Cobb AccessPORT tuned by MazdaManiac
5) AEM intake (might gain some HP when combined with the items above)
6) Short Shifter (not a performance mod, but makes driving more enjoyable)

treitz

Thanks for list. BTW, what does N/A stand for? (stupid question!?)

AF SS is pretty high on my list considering the price point and fun level. Found one for $200 on craigslist but had to buy some other stuff. Pissed I passed it up!!!

Mid pipe was up there, but makes me nervous because of emissions but sounds like a good buy other than that.

Everything else... Someday! For now I am focussed on making sure all the recalls and everything are taken care of. Starters working right, spark plugs and coils are good, etc.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

NA = Naturally Aspirated
Basically means you're not FI (Forced Induction) which is turbo or supercharger.

treitz

GOT it. Lol. I've been trying to figure out what the meant ever since I started reading these forums.

Thanks for all your help. I be sure to let you know how the car runs and idols now that I capped it where I was suppose to:-)

treitz

Idle still seamed a little rough for the first day or two... but I think it has settled down now.

Seams a bit louder, but I had the "loss of power" recall done on Friday, the day after I capped the vacuum, so it's hard to tell whether any differences I am hearing or feeling are from the cap, or the recall.

Immediately after I had the recall done I felt a quicker throttle response... but after 3 days it feels normal now. It was either physiological, or I am just use to whatever difference it did make already.

Revolver

Don't forget handling. I reckon some decent aftermarket sways are good bang for your buck. You'll enjoy corners even more, which is what this car is really about.

Although the other mods suggested are all respectable incremental improvements on stock, don't expect much unless you're prepared to force induct it.

Have fun with the car and good luck with the mods...

treitz

I already have front sway bar and was told by the dealer (idiot) that you can't have a rear sway bar. Obviously not true.

What rear sway would you recommend?

Revolver

Different sways have different specs, so it depends what you've fitted to the front. I'd try to match them if I were you.

I've got Whiteline sways fitted but will be changing to MazdaSpeed eventually because I've fitted MS shocks and springs and want to see if a uniform component set makes a difference.

Do not listen to dealers. There's lots of good knowledge in here, so take some time to read up on whatever mod you're considering. Search is your friend.

treitz

Ok cool. Thanks. I will have to do some research to figure out what the front sway is... It was on when I bought the car.