Hi I recently got my coil changed at the dealership for over 800 dollars so I felt like I should change my spark plugs and wires myself before they cause problems! When I was doing spark plug change looking at the DIY I wasn't under the impression where spark plugs were going to be REALLY stuck in there. I did use extensions and those wobble extension also I did read on one of the dyi about banging them with hammer? but I could not get them to unscrew so I only changed my wires :/ any suggestions guys?

PS. And I did unplug my battery and I'm having that "Can't Idle" problem.... which I had when I changed my battery lol I guess It was okay after like few days of dangerous driving.... to complete the "driving cycles" so I'm hoping it'd be the same this time.... I don't understand though it use to not have this problem! anyways..

 

Ive actually been robbed at the "stealership" for that $800 dollar coil fee smh. If i were you id learn how to change your own coils, plugs, wires (2 of them you're already trying) but it'll save you money. Also those same OEM $800 coils you can get from rotaryfx for 59.99 each lol. To be honest, since coils need to be changed at least around every 20k you just buy the bwd coils from autozone for 29.99 each. I purchased 4 coils, 4 ngk plugs, and ngk ignition wires all for $223! These all work perfect for me with no problems! Coils took about 30 mins, plugs 20, and wires like 10.

On topic: I would suggest just using the extension and maybe applying a little more strength. I don't suggest using a hammer but then again what do i know im still new to this.

 

I know i said autozone but i meant advanced auto parts. Sorry for double post.

 

I'm not trying to say I'm the toughest guy ever or anything but I feel like I was exerting pretty decent amount of force... and I had no problem doing anything else like changing my brake pad/caliper/rotor, but are they suppose to be in there that hard?

 

Yeah mine were actually in there pretty hard. Try banging them a little with your wrench. Not with the hammer though. The extensions and a few bangs worked for me.

 

If it's your first time changing plugs then they lack any form of antiseize. I just got done doing mine over the weekend and I had one that was being finicky. some pb blaster and a breaker bar later...wham new plugs.

As said in many of the other threads, on your new plugs put a light coat of anti seize, making sure to not get it on the tip, makes the next changes 10x easier.

 

Oh and also, if you aren't already, using wobble extensions is a huge advantage, even on the two straight shot ones, using the wobble extension I was actually able to get all 4 plugs without getting under the car.

Remember wobble = friend

 

I guess my only option is to use more force lol :P
I will try again soon but I'm just glad my CEL is gone after changing coil/wires so far I'm guessing that means my plugs are not too bad yet haha but last time I got new plugs was when I got my new engine like 8k miles ago so I'm gonna go ahead and swap them out :] and yeah I already bought the anti seize!

 

Yeah more force it'll eventually come out just make sure you're at 90 degrees otherwise you may bring the threads with you

 

more force will most likely do the trick, or crack the plug

 

because that method is fubar

use a 3/8" ratchet with a 13/16" sparkplug socket directly attached to it and lean in from the top of the engine bay, starting with the upper trailing plug first and then the lower leading plug (installation is the reverse) rather than using using wobble adaptors and extensions

it's direct and easier this way, you may have to rotate the ratchet around some to get the travel free position for the removal/installation, but otherwise that side of the engine is basically wide open to reach in for sparkplug service

but if you insist on doing it the fubar way if you're using a 3/8" extension then you will need a long ratchet to overcome the torsional force being eaten up by the twisting flex in that long skinny extension, you don't need a wobble adaptor if you slip the socket on the plug first because it will also increase the amount of force needed, you really need to use a 1/2" or larger diameter extension to get a direct breaking force on the plug threads


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and once again this f'ing forum area is only for instructional DIY threads, it's really no surprise that some people have so many problems because they more often than not step right off the cliff without looking where they are going

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-how-use-search-function-rx8club-com-forum-73846/

of course we could change the title to:

DIY: I'm doing it wrong so read this and learn how not to ...


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