flooded
03-02-2009, 08:34 AM
#1
flooded
Well I finally flooded my car yesterday. I installed the RB exhaust and when I went to start it...flooded. I had revved the car up to 6k or so when I shut it off last, but I guess that didn't help. So I held the gas pedal down and cranked for 5 or 6 seconds, let off gas pedal and cranked for same time. I repeated this for about 45 seconds. And gave up on that. Then I removed the plugs and let them dry out. While they were drying I cranked the engine with gas pedal depressed to try to shoot out any extra gas that may have still been in the engine. Put the plugs back in and tried the start again using the same procedure above... nothing.
By this point my battery was virtually dead. Since I park on a little bit of a hill I tried to get the car rolling fast enough and let the clutch out, but that didn't work. I was only able to get the car up to 9 mph before letting the clutch out. ( I was in 2nd gear) Now my car is at the other side of my apt. complex
My question is what now? I searched yesterday frantically and saw a thread about injecting winshield washer fluid into the service ports. Is this y next course of action? Should I just get it towed to the dealership (2 miles away.) Should I put the tow hooks in the front bumper and have a friend pull me there on side roads with a tow rope?(This doesn't sound safe to me) or should i try to get pulled up to a faster speed and let the clutch out again?
Also the last time I tried to crank the engine it just clicked. (tick tick tick tick tick) That just means the battery can't power the starter right? Or is the starter motor jacked up now from so much chanking?
I don't have much time to spare this week and I really need my car. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Adam
By this point my battery was virtually dead. Since I park on a little bit of a hill I tried to get the car rolling fast enough and let the clutch out, but that didn't work. I was only able to get the car up to 9 mph before letting the clutch out. ( I was in 2nd gear) Now my car is at the other side of my apt. complex
My question is what now? I searched yesterday frantically and saw a thread about injecting winshield washer fluid into the service ports. Is this y next course of action? Should I just get it towed to the dealership (2 miles away.) Should I put the tow hooks in the front bumper and have a friend pull me there on side roads with a tow rope?(This doesn't sound safe to me) or should i try to get pulled up to a faster speed and let the clutch out again?
Also the last time I tried to crank the engine it just clicked. (tick tick tick tick tick) That just means the battery can't power the starter right? Or is the starter motor jacked up now from so much chanking?
I don't have much time to spare this week and I really need my car. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Adam
Last edited by Lord ET; 03-02-2009 at 08:37 AM.
03-02-2009, 08:46 AM
#2
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Adam,
I've been through this on someone elses car.
Clicking is most likely battery being drained. Get another one.
I had to go through the pulling the plugs and cranking proceedure several times before I got it started. I would find another battery and try it again. Pull the plugs.........really get them clean and dry. While they are drying, do that cranking again, but I would pull the fuel relay as well. Go ahead and hold the gas to the floor as well. Don't do it more than ten seconds at a time and then let it rest as to not overheat the starter. Wait 30 seconds inbetween attempts. Do this until no smoke or gas/oil comes out of the plug holes.
Once you think it's ready, do it two more times.
After the plugs are good and dry and no smoke or moisture out of the plug holes. Re-intall the plugs, hook them up and crank the car without any pressure on the pedal and without the fuel relay in. Once it cranks and starts, plug in the fuel relay really quick(need 2nd person) and hopefully it will run. If not..............repeat entire proceedure. I had to do this at least three whole times before we got it.
Yes, you can pull start it, but I've never done it. Need to be about 15-18mph in 2nd. Can't really say whether it's safe or not. It's up to you.
I haven't done the trick with oil or wiper fluid. Only thing I can tell you is.....get those plugs really dry and get everything oil/gas out of the motor. While you are trying to clear it out, do not try to crank it unless you have the pedal on the floor, or you will introduce more gas into the engine. When you are ready to get it to fire up, then don't give it any gas until it fires, and the fuel relay is back in.
I've been through this on someone elses car.
Clicking is most likely battery being drained. Get another one.
I had to go through the pulling the plugs and cranking proceedure several times before I got it started. I would find another battery and try it again. Pull the plugs.........really get them clean and dry. While they are drying, do that cranking again, but I would pull the fuel relay as well. Go ahead and hold the gas to the floor as well. Don't do it more than ten seconds at a time and then let it rest as to not overheat the starter. Wait 30 seconds inbetween attempts. Do this until no smoke or gas/oil comes out of the plug holes.
Once you think it's ready, do it two more times.
After the plugs are good and dry and no smoke or moisture out of the plug holes. Re-intall the plugs, hook them up and crank the car without any pressure on the pedal and without the fuel relay in. Once it cranks and starts, plug in the fuel relay really quick(need 2nd person) and hopefully it will run. If not..............repeat entire proceedure. I had to do this at least three whole times before we got it.
Yes, you can pull start it, but I've never done it. Need to be about 15-18mph in 2nd. Can't really say whether it's safe or not. It's up to you.
I haven't done the trick with oil or wiper fluid. Only thing I can tell you is.....get those plugs really dry and get everything oil/gas out of the motor. While you are trying to clear it out, do not try to crank it unless you have the pedal on the floor, or you will introduce more gas into the engine. When you are ready to get it to fire up, then don't give it any gas until it fires, and the fuel relay is back in.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 03-02-2009 at 08:54 AM.
03-02-2009, 09:02 AM
#4
I have flooded twice in a year... both recently. A local showed me the deflood with the washer fluid... It worked really well... The time I did it myself, I went from flooded to running w/o a jump or external battery power in about 15 min.
However... you do need a battery now. I would try the washer fluid before a pull start.
However... you do need a battery now. I would try the washer fluid before a pull start.
03-02-2009, 09:12 AM
#5
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My paintshop flooded my car last week and the only thing I had to do was attach a "external starter" ( not sure what it is called) to the battery and then cranking the hell out of the engine with gas to the floor.
After a couple of good crankes you could hear the engine fire away and after a few more it started like nothing happened.
Had to take a couple of breakes though to not over heat the starter.
Mazda representatives had been to the shop twice without beeing able to start it. When I arrived it took like 5 mins before the car was running ... apparently the local shop did not read the users manual regarding flooding
After a couple of good crankes you could hear the engine fire away and after a few more it started like nothing happened.
Had to take a couple of breakes though to not over heat the starter.
Mazda representatives had been to the shop twice without beeing able to start it. When I arrived it took like 5 mins before the car was running ... apparently the local shop did not read the users manual regarding flooding
03-02-2009, 10:27 AM
#6
And the external starter was just a portable jump starter to make sure they didn't kill your battery.
. . . including many of the people on the forums. Its always easier to ask and be given the answer than it is to find the answer on your own.
03-02-2009, 11:30 AM
#7
Adam,
I've been through this on someone elses car.
Clicking is most likely battery being drained. Get another one.
I had to go through the pulling the plugs and cranking proceedure several times before I got it started. I would find another battery and try it again. Pull the plugs.........really get them clean and dry. While they are drying, do that cranking again, but I would pull the fuel relay as well. Go ahead and hold the gas to the floor as well. Don't do it more than ten seconds at a time and then let it rest as to not overheat the starter. Wait 30 seconds inbetween attempts. Do this until no smoke or gas/oil comes out of the plug holes.
Once you think it's ready, do it two more times.
After the plugs are good and dry and no smoke or moisture out of the plug holes. Re-intall the plugs, hook them up and crank the car without any pressure on the pedal and without the fuel relay in. Once it cranks and starts, plug in the fuel relay really quick(need 2nd person) and hopefully it will run. If not..............repeat entire proceedure. I had to do this at least three whole times before we got it.
Yes, you can pull start it, but I've never done it. Need to be about 15-18mph in 2nd. Can't really say whether it's safe or not. It's up to you.
I haven't done the trick with oil or wiper fluid. Only thing I can tell you is.....get those plugs really dry and get everything oil/gas out of the motor. While you are trying to clear it out, do not try to crank it unless you have the pedal on the floor, or you will introduce more gas into the engine. When you are ready to get it to fire up, then don't give it any gas until it fires, and the fuel relay is back in.
I've been through this on someone elses car.
Clicking is most likely battery being drained. Get another one.
I had to go through the pulling the plugs and cranking proceedure several times before I got it started. I would find another battery and try it again. Pull the plugs.........really get them clean and dry. While they are drying, do that cranking again, but I would pull the fuel relay as well. Go ahead and hold the gas to the floor as well. Don't do it more than ten seconds at a time and then let it rest as to not overheat the starter. Wait 30 seconds inbetween attempts. Do this until no smoke or gas/oil comes out of the plug holes.
Once you think it's ready, do it two more times.
After the plugs are good and dry and no smoke or moisture out of the plug holes. Re-intall the plugs, hook them up and crank the car without any pressure on the pedal and without the fuel relay in. Once it cranks and starts, plug in the fuel relay really quick(need 2nd person) and hopefully it will run. If not..............repeat entire proceedure. I had to do this at least three whole times before we got it.
Yes, you can pull start it, but I've never done it. Need to be about 15-18mph in 2nd. Can't really say whether it's safe or not. It's up to you.
I haven't done the trick with oil or wiper fluid. Only thing I can tell you is.....get those plugs really dry and get everything oil/gas out of the motor. While you are trying to clear it out, do not try to crank it unless you have the pedal on the floor, or you will introduce more gas into the engine. When you are ready to get it to fire up, then don't give it any gas until it fires, and the fuel relay is back in.
03-02-2009, 11:38 AM
#8
Zoom Zoom....
Towing.
Hi Adam,
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
Last edited by Silver06; 03-02-2009 at 11:40 AM.
03-02-2009, 11:58 AM
#9
Hi Adam,
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
03-02-2009, 12:19 PM
#10
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great info. the battery inst that old so ill just have a buddy give me a jump when i want to crank. so the first time i just let them dry out. what do you clean them with...? whenever i cranked the engine with plugs out i didnt see any smoking and i didnt even see fuel dripping out...
Just remember it may take a few times through this if you decide to try this method.
I used compressed air to dry them because I had it available. Just get the as dry as possible even if you have to blow on them. Maybe use a hair drier????
It's good you have nothing coming out of the plug holes. We had to do it about 10 times to get everything out. Then we put it all back together and tried it with no luck. Took the plugs back out and repeated everything and we got it on the second go-around.
Again, once it started we slapped the fuel relay in within about 5 seconds.
03-04-2009, 08:58 AM
#12
Well I finally got a chance to mess with the car last night and got it running again, phew.
I tried the manual's deflood procedure first again, then tried the washer fluid method... no dice. I turned to the tsb at that point and tried to get the engine to suck 5w-20 in, but that didn't work. So I took off the wheel and took out the plugs, which were now covered in washer fluid :/ I took a brush to 'em and made sure they were nice and cleaned off. I had to crank the engine for 30 minutes or so to shoot all that washer fluid and gas out.... but finally no more clouds of junk came flyin' out and I took that as cue to crank 2 more times and install the plugs.
I plugged the ESP sensor back in and cranked with my foot to the floor just to make sure. Nothing. So next crank I lifted my foot and after a few seconds it tried to start and eventually did turn over. After a second or so it stalled. I cranked it again after a few seconds and this time it stayed on. I modulated the throttle to keep it running and start the 'smokin' process.
The exhaust didn't smoke as much as others' pictures led me to believe it would, but it was still more than usual. Now I have a CEL, but i figure that would be attributed to cranking the engine (plugs out) with the ESP sensor disconnected.
I just wanted to thank everyone for their input and saving me some major money.
I tried the manual's deflood procedure first again, then tried the washer fluid method... no dice. I turned to the tsb at that point and tried to get the engine to suck 5w-20 in, but that didn't work. So I took off the wheel and took out the plugs, which were now covered in washer fluid :/ I took a brush to 'em and made sure they were nice and cleaned off. I had to crank the engine for 30 minutes or so to shoot all that washer fluid and gas out.... but finally no more clouds of junk came flyin' out and I took that as cue to crank 2 more times and install the plugs.
I plugged the ESP sensor back in and cranked with my foot to the floor just to make sure. Nothing. So next crank I lifted my foot and after a few seconds it tried to start and eventually did turn over. After a second or so it stalled. I cranked it again after a few seconds and this time it stayed on. I modulated the throttle to keep it running and start the 'smokin' process.
The exhaust didn't smoke as much as others' pictures led me to believe it would, but it was still more than usual. Now I have a CEL, but i figure that would be attributed to cranking the engine (plugs out) with the ESP sensor disconnected.
I just wanted to thank everyone for their input and saving me some major money.
03-04-2009, 09:21 AM
#13
Good to hear... the washer fluid method isn't an exact science. I failed at starting mine the first time I tried it (I didn't push my starter enough...)
When you say crank for 30 minutes... how exactly did you do this? Just short crank burst to push out the fuel/washer fluid? The reason I ask is because you're not supposed to push your starter for over 10 seconds at a time.
When you say crank for 30 minutes... how exactly did you do this? Just short crank burst to push out the fuel/washer fluid? The reason I ask is because you're not supposed to push your starter for over 10 seconds at a time.
03-04-2009, 09:42 AM
#15
just checking... didn't want other people to read this thread and think that they could just crank for extended periods of time.
(there have been some threads recently that have just made me think, "Wow, really?" So... figured I would just clear that up.)
(there have been some threads recently that have just made me think, "Wow, really?" So... figured I would just clear that up.)
03-04-2009, 12:10 PM
#17
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Hi Adam,
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
This is a (small) rant I've done a bunch of times.....
Please Note that the screw-in eyebolts on the front and back bumpers are TIE-DOWN HOOKS for holding the car down on a flat-bed.
They are not designed for the stresses of towing a car.
If you use the front one to tow, I'd be very careful about minimizing the shock when you take up the slack on the strap. Please be very gentle.
Good luck.
The tow hooks included are for short tows like out of a ditch, out of a parking garage, or from off-track incidents on a race track. They shouldn't be used to tow the car any significant distance and are only intended for 'straight' pulls as any sideway force from towing can dislodge the hook and take a good chunk of the bumper with it.
TOWING
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BHE000000009W03
Towing
• Proper lifting and towing are necessary to prevent damage to the vehicle. State and local laws must be followed.
• A towed vehicle usually should have its rear wheels off the ground. If excessive damage or other conditions prevent this, use wheel dollies.
Caution
• Do not tow the vehicle pointed forward with driving wheel on the ground. This may cause internal damage to the transmission.
Caution
• Do not tow with sling-type equipment. This could damage your vehicle. Use wheel-lift or flatbed equipment.
Caution
• Do not use the holes under the front and rear for towing. They are designed ONLY for tying down the vehicle when it is being transported.
Towing Hooks
Caution
• The towing hooks should be used only in an emergency (to get the vehicle out of a ditch or a snow bank, for example).
• When using the towing hooks, always pull the cable or chain in a straight direction with respect to the hook. Apply no sideways force.
1. Remove the towing eyelet from trunk.
2. Wrap a lug wrench with a soft cloth to prevent damage to the bumper and open the cap located on the front and rear bumper.
Caution
• The cap cannot be completely removed. Do not use excessive force as it may damage the cap or scratch the painted bumper surface.
3. Securely install the towing eyelet using the lug wrench.
4. Hook the tying rope to the towing eyelet.
Caution
• If the towing eyelet is not securely tightened, it may loosen or disengage from the bumper when towing the vehicle. Make sure that the towing eyelet is securely tightened to the bumper.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BHE000000009W03
Towing
• Proper lifting and towing are necessary to prevent damage to the vehicle. State and local laws must be followed.
• A towed vehicle usually should have its rear wheels off the ground. If excessive damage or other conditions prevent this, use wheel dollies.
Caution
• Do not tow the vehicle pointed forward with driving wheel on the ground. This may cause internal damage to the transmission.
Caution
• Do not tow with sling-type equipment. This could damage your vehicle. Use wheel-lift or flatbed equipment.
Caution
• Do not use the holes under the front and rear for towing. They are designed ONLY for tying down the vehicle when it is being transported.
Towing Hooks
Caution
• The towing hooks should be used only in an emergency (to get the vehicle out of a ditch or a snow bank, for example).
• When using the towing hooks, always pull the cable or chain in a straight direction with respect to the hook. Apply no sideways force.
1. Remove the towing eyelet from trunk.
2. Wrap a lug wrench with a soft cloth to prevent damage to the bumper and open the cap located on the front and rear bumper.
Caution
• The cap cannot be completely removed. Do not use excessive force as it may damage the cap or scratch the painted bumper surface.
3. Securely install the towing eyelet using the lug wrench.
4. Hook the tying rope to the towing eyelet.
Caution
• If the towing eyelet is not securely tightened, it may loosen or disengage from the bumper when towing the vehicle. Make sure that the towing eyelet is securely tightened to the bumper.
Last edited by RK; 03-04-2009 at 12:13 PM.
03-04-2009, 01:06 PM
#18
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Well im currently in the same boat although my 8 is right ouot front . I tried the same things you did and car is still sitting there.... I'm goona get my ride towed i cant get it going.....
. I tried the same things you did and car is still sitting there.... I'm goona get my ride towed i cant get it going.....
03-04-2009, 05:41 PM
#19
it's such a terrible feeling isn't it!? It took me forever to get everything out of the engine (excess everything) Also, did you unplug the esp sensor, and the air pump sensor i think it's like b-204 or something like that...
the tsb says to unplug it to help save the Cat. I unplugged that, the ESP sensor(just behind the pulley) and held the gas to the floor while we cranked everything out of the spark plug holes... just to be safe. This took a long *** time. Then when everything was out and no more anything came out of the engine while cranking I put the plugs back in, reattached both sensor plugs and tried to start with pedal to the floor. The next crank was pedal to the floor for about 1 second, then I lifted my foot. After about 2 seconds the engine turned over to 2k rpm and died. Waited 5 more seconds and did the same crank (foot to the floor for 1 second then let off and keep cranking) it turned over and I had to give it some gas to keep it from stalling...then just modulated for a minute or so until it could idle on its own.
the tsb says to unplug it to help save the Cat. I unplugged that, the ESP sensor(just behind the pulley) and held the gas to the floor while we cranked everything out of the spark plug holes... just to be safe. This took a long *** time. Then when everything was out and no more anything came out of the engine while cranking I put the plugs back in, reattached both sensor plugs and tried to start with pedal to the floor. The next crank was pedal to the floor for about 1 second, then I lifted my foot. After about 2 seconds the engine turned over to 2k rpm and died. Waited 5 more seconds and did the same crank (foot to the floor for 1 second then let off and keep cranking) it turned over and I had to give it some gas to keep it from stalling...then just modulated for a minute or so until it could idle on its own.
03-04-2009, 06:05 PM
#20
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Phew......glad that's over with!
That's two down in less than 24 hours.
Not sure how it flooded in the first place, but doesn't matter now. I'll bet you don't do it again! Might want to keep this handy for when others might be moving your car. Especially when leaving it a shops and such. Put it in your glove box and bring it out to proudly display it whenever you drip your car off.
That's two down in less than 24 hours.
Not sure how it flooded in the first place, but doesn't matter now. I'll bet you don't do it again! Might want to keep this handy for when others might be moving your car. Especially when leaving it a shops and such. Put it in your glove box and bring it out to proudly display it whenever you drip your car off.
03-05-2009, 01:58 AM
#22
Zoom Zoom....
I know you've done the rant a few times but you're wrong.
The tow hooks included are for short tows like out of a ditch, out of a parking garage, or from off-track incidents on a race track. They shouldn't be used to tow the car any significant distance and are only intended for 'straight' pulls as any sideway force from towing can dislodge the hook and take a good chunk of the bumper with it.
The tow hooks included are for short tows like out of a ditch, out of a parking garage, or from off-track incidents on a race track. They shouldn't be used to tow the car any significant distance and are only intended for 'straight' pulls as any sideway force from towing can dislodge the hook and take a good chunk of the bumper with it.
Whatever.
You believe what you want to believe.....
I have a lot of money invested in my car, and I read my Owner's Manual. When Mazda says: "Using them {the screw-in tiedown hooks} for towing WILL damage the bumper", I take some notice. Perhaps you don't.
I'm sure that if folk rip the bumper off their cars by following your advise, and Mazda denied them warranty, YOU would step up to pay for the repairs. Yeah, right....
FYI, I've scanned the following from my 2006 Canadian Owner's manual (the 2004 USA Owner's Manual that you can find online has the same info on Page 7-24):
The RX-8 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL (Page 31 of the "General Info" Section) uses THE EXACT SAME WORDING AS THE OWNER'S MANUAL. If you don't believe me yet, click here: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/RX-8FSM/01Info.pdf
Like I said. You can do whatever you want with your car. However, one ought to be very careful when giving advise that is contrary to both the Owner's Manual and the Factory Service Manual over the Internet. Perhaps you should include a disclaimer....
Oh, and by the way, you are quoting a page from a website that purports to be a "Workshop Manual". I hope that when you are working on your own car, you consult the real Factory Service Manual in PDF form.
03-05-2009, 06:13 AM
#23
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I'm gonna refrain from getting into this because you're obviously emotionally invested in tow hooks (I had to get one joke in). But the interwebz is a big place. Here's the 2003 service manual:
http://pdftown.com/Mazda-RX8-2003-Service-Manual.html
You can find it under the workshop/general info/general info/towing. Your owners manual is missing the pic I linked before that shows the points under the car used for tie downs. Reread the warning section you have there. It says 'under' the front and rear'. Does that make any sense to you? The front tow hook location is even at the top of the bumper.
Mazdaspeed also has towhooks used in the same spot without any changes aside from the hook being flexible (and bigger) to make it easier for wreckers to tow a car on track.
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625428
Mazda didn't just include tow hooks they put them next to the jack and lug wrench. They intend for people to use them at the same time in any situation that may require towing.
Either the Canadian legal team (and probably US one as well) read the '03 manual and decided that Canadians and Americans would immediately begin using this as a tow for long trips behind their RVs or something got lost in the translation.
However at the track everyone should have these on and in situations where you can't be towed and have to either be winched up a flatbed or pulled out of a place where a wrecker can't get to you should use these.
And if you use these as tie down hooks make sure you are only using them to restrict movement front to back. Since both your owners manual and my service manual state that pressure from the side on hooks is bad for it since it's screwed straight in.
http://pdftown.com/Mazda-RX8-2003-Service-Manual.html
You can find it under the workshop/general info/general info/towing. Your owners manual is missing the pic I linked before that shows the points under the car used for tie downs. Reread the warning section you have there. It says 'under' the front and rear'. Does that make any sense to you? The front tow hook location is even at the top of the bumper.
Mazdaspeed also has towhooks used in the same spot without any changes aside from the hook being flexible (and bigger) to make it easier for wreckers to tow a car on track.
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625428
Mazda didn't just include tow hooks they put them next to the jack and lug wrench. They intend for people to use them at the same time in any situation that may require towing.
Either the Canadian legal team (and probably US one as well) read the '03 manual and decided that Canadians and Americans would immediately begin using this as a tow for long trips behind their RVs or something got lost in the translation.
However at the track everyone should have these on and in situations where you can't be towed and have to either be winched up a flatbed or pulled out of a place where a wrecker can't get to you should use these.
And if you use these as tie down hooks make sure you are only using them to restrict movement front to back. Since both your owners manual and my service manual state that pressure from the side on hooks is bad for it since it's screwed straight in.
Last edited by RK; 03-05-2009 at 06:58 AM.
03-05-2009, 06:26 AM
#24
Try this:
http://pdftown.com/Mazda-RX8-2003-Service-Manual.html
03-05-2009, 06:57 AM
#25
It's Not Easy Being Green
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That link just took me to the website's main page.
Try this:
http://pdftown.com/Mazda-RX8-2003-Service-Manual.html
Try this:
http://pdftown.com/Mazda-RX8-2003-Service-Manual.html
And just because we're talking about it and someone reading might have no clue what these are here's a good excuse to show it:
