not with a 5W/20 oil. But with a heavier oil, on start up and at approx 4-5K it will?
OD

 

I don't think you should be at 4-5k RPM at startup with a high viscosity oil anyways.

 

True!

But at least we would get higher pressure at high rpms.
Actually we can't take the min.10PSI/1000rpm (90PSI 9000rpm) rule without the rear regulator mod. Maybe this is the problem.
I don't think that the bearing wear comes into being at low rpms. But who knows?

 

There are many things listed in this thread and on this forum that will extend engine life and there are some who are seeing more than 130k. I'd like to see may pass 200k myself. Yes, I think the additional oil metering nozzle and improved oiling system in conjunction with better water cooling of the S2 should do wonders for the Renny.

Paul.

 

Paul,
do you agree with me that the 3rd oil nozzle and water cooling parts could be read like:
premix and take care of your cooling system (like with a better water pump\ a real open front grille, a better rad and what else comes to mind) and your s1 engine will last a lot longer?
Add these oil pressure\viscosity threads and we should be sleeping better!

 

I'm sure someone in Australia makes some but these are the only ceramic seals made for Renesis on the planet. Some people machine Renesis rotors to take the taller pre-renesis seals and even then Iannetti seals are the best. We had a hand in their conception and design by the way. I know a lot of top Australian builders and racers use these and yes, they're not cheap.

Paul.

 

Water pump, thermostat, fan control, pre-mix and proper viscosity with good maintenance are the biggest. Making sure one has a proper battery and correct flash to reduce flooding to about impossible is smart as well. We'll have to do a thread eventually to cover reduction of carbon buildup.

Paul.

 

Good to know. I already use a different viscosity than 5w30, do what i call "right maintenance" and have some cooling mods.
Since i often see high revs for extended periods of time i will try, as you know, a higher-set pressure regulator.
Insights?

 

I will soon sell the entire oil pressure upgrade kit as a RE-medy mod.

Paul.

 

Talking as spacers and pressure regulator, or will you include the eccentric shaft's pellet spacer as well?

Shoot me a pm, you know we have a group buy coming in your direction soon!

 

Suuuuweeeeeet!

 

Glad you accepted my suggestion dear friend!
Please include me as one of your 1st customers. We could actually do a diy install and video and post results after the install on my car--beta tester if you will?
Also if the oil pan baffles (in the 09 oil pan) can be obtained at a resonable cost I would like that.
OD

 

I've always been cautious about offering parts (RE-medy) that might be too technical and complex to install but here we go.

Paul.

 

http://www.performancetestedseals.com/seals.html

 

Paul i hope that most owners of the 8 that are interested in properly addressing lubrication have by now gained enough mechanical knowledge to do this.
But you never know.
I have learned not to use a air torque wrench on the oil pan bolts?
OD

 

I just want this engine to last for at least two years.

 

Great!
It justifies my first and old thought about the bearing wear (and maybe it is relating to other problems), that our max. oil pressure is not enough.

Paul, I think now you have real life oil pressure data from the S2.

 

he does? Paul.......................................... you holding out? lol
OD

 

Just more information on the stupid e-shaft pellet.

Yesterday was 54F degree ouside temp here.

Cold start, warming, then rolling. When the instrument panel's water temp gauge got the hot position (about 8 mins), then I have to wait four more long minutes to reach the 122F oil temp (sandwich plate sender).
The oil pressure was only 30-32PSI at 2000 rpm, with the way too thick 122F temp oil.

....And it is almost the same until 140F oil temp. When the oil reaches this temp (bypass closing), the pressure is doubling (65PSI) at the same rpm.

 

mines different---- on full warm idle I am at 30psi (my idle point 1.1K) with a 15w/40
on a comparable cold start (ambient in the 50's) I am at 78-80psi at 1700rpm (warm up rpm). this pressure reduces quickly as the oil warms.
OD

 

I can't seem to make sense of your results, ayrton. It doesn't make sense that your OP would double when the cooler bypass is closing. Since you're measuring at the sandwich plate (after the cooler, right?) I would have to imagine that the pressure would go down a bit, since it would lose some through the cooler. Not only that, but your oil should be thinner as well. Do you potentially have a faulty gauge?


olddragger, I didn't realize cold oil pressure is that high at such a low rpm, so some of it is probably getting by-passed. I would definitely try to increase the bypass pressure of the rear valve, then.

 

yes my thoughts also.
OD

 

And another thing, if your OP is that high at idle, you definitely don't want to be driving it around. Don't you let your car idle to warm up, od?

 

yes for just a little but pressures will remain high for a mile or so--low rpm (3K) limited and very light load.
od

 

You can see my single cooler thread for updates and details in the days to come but having a single cooler does increase oil pressure. But I'm not driving to some cosmetic change that need to be made but it is running great.