5W30 Oil Don't Cut it, Engine Bearing Pics 58K S1 RX-8 from England.
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From: UK
As Rotarygod says, we're not coming out about the lighter oils because that offers no proof either way, you can guess at it if you like, but that's all.
We stripped our engine down last month for a check, ok, it's only done ~15,000 miles, but it's been in racing conditions - full throttle/high revs/high load and high temperatures.
Guess what?
It's gone back together with nothing but new seals.
Does that tell you fully synth 5-30 is the best stuff to use? No, it just tells you the engine's been looked after when cold, and given the wear patterns on most engines, premix seems to be a damn good idea...
We stripped our engine down last month for a check, ok, it's only done ~15,000 miles, but it's been in racing conditions - full throttle/high revs/high load and high temperatures.
Guess what?
It's gone back together with nothing but new seals.
Does that tell you fully synth 5-30 is the best stuff to use? No, it just tells you the engine's been looked after when cold, and given the wear patterns on most engines, premix seems to be a damn good idea...
Sorry nycgps i ment 12000mls,here in the uk most cars run extended service intervals for the fleet buyers, also our early RX8's came with colder plugs than the USA, we had an 8 for our leading plug rather than a 7, which i'm sure won't help against carbon build up, plus longer warm up times.
I premix and use bg44k to keep things clean and well lubed, i'm not one of those touchy brits though lol but i know where Ash is coming from.
Dave
I premix and use bg44k to keep things clean and well lubed, i'm not one of those touchy brits though lol but i know where Ash is coming from.
Dave
Are you serious ?
Dang ! I mean, hmm yeah a "GOOD" Synthetic will be ok even at 15,000 miles (assume that your car is not abused in any way plus its driving in pretty clean condition), but a dino based juice ...
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From: UK
It was originally Millers XF Longlife due to some sponsorship on another car (free barrel!), but since that car got sold we've relatively recently switched to Silkolene Pro S, both full ester-synthetics.
It probably helps that we keep our oil temperatures down too, which stops the oil breaking down under the high temperature/load conditions it sustains through the bearings - our oil cooler is roughly 24"x12"....
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From: UK
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Mine is prolly having the same problem. i am thinking its my spark plugs, but mine is heating. Maybe the coolant is not reaching and its blocked somewhere along its line or somthing. Once it reaches normal operating temperature I have so much power loss, and lots lots of shaking. Hating my 8 rite now.
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From: Caput Mundi
Services are scheduled every 20.000km.
I do it every 3000km since i track my car, 20.000km is more than my transmission fluids change interval!
Wonder why so many engines fail here..
FOLLOW MAZDA's GUIDELINE ! THEIR RECOMMENDATION IS BIBLE ! EVEN IT TELLS YOU TO CHANGE IT EVERY 50K MILES YOU STILL DO IT ! CUZ ACCORDING TO A JACKASS NAME rxrocks ! USE 5w20(or 5w30) ! DO EVERYTHING AT MAZDA DEALER ! NO NEED TO PREMIX ! WHO CARES IF YOU GOT BEARING WEAR DOWN TO COPPER ! MAZDA KNOWS BEST AND YOU JUST DO WHATEVER THEY SAY !
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From: Caput Mundi
DUDE ! DON'T YOU GET IT ?
FOLLOW MAZDA's GUIDELINE ! THEIR RECOMMENDATION IS BIBLE ! EVEN IT TELLS YOU TO CHANGE IT EVERY 50K MILES YOU STILL DO IT ! CUZ ACCORDING TO A JACKASS NAME rxrocks ! USE 5w20(or 5w30) ! DO EVERYTHING AT MAZDA DEALER ! NO NEED TO PREMIX ! WHO CARES IF YOU GOT BEARING WEAR DOWN TO COPPER ! MAZDA KNOWS BEST AND YOU JUST DO WHATEVER THEY SAY !
FOLLOW MAZDA's GUIDELINE ! THEIR RECOMMENDATION IS BIBLE ! EVEN IT TELLS YOU TO CHANGE IT EVERY 50K MILES YOU STILL DO IT ! CUZ ACCORDING TO A JACKASS NAME rxrocks ! USE 5w20(or 5w30) ! DO EVERYTHING AT MAZDA DEALER ! NO NEED TO PREMIX ! WHO CARES IF YOU GOT BEARING WEAR DOWN TO COPPER ! MAZDA KNOWS BEST AND YOU JUST DO WHATEVER THEY SAY !
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From: Northern Virginia
Probably excess carbon buildup from premix and from synthetic oil that does not burn completely. Together with running oil that's too thick and impairs cooling.
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
Probably excess carbon buildup from premix and from synthetic oil that does not burn completely. Together with running oil that's too thick and impairs cooling.
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
#50
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 7,521
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From: Caput Mundi
Probably excess carbon buildup from premix and from synthetic oil that does not burn completely. Together with running oil that's too thick and impairs cooling.
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
Or maybe it's something else. It could be random failures from poor assembly. These engines are assembled by hand, aren't they? And I get the impression that it takes some skill to do it right. For a while someone who worked in Mazda's Virginia rebuilding facility posted here. He bragged about having assembled an engine in 22 minutes. If that's also the way they work on new engines in the factory, no wonder there are failures.
Ken
Excess of carbon buildup from premix and synth that doesn't burn? If you pick up the right synthetic it will burn way better and with way less residues than a mineral one! Also the premix helps working as a solvent... If you tear an engine apart you will see that in the area where the oil nozzles lubricate the rotor there's close to no carbon. Anyway they all use mazda's 5w30 dexelia here, i run 10w40 royal purple since my car never sees temperatures below 16°C in the garage.
Guess so, the problem is that they replace the plugs every 60\80.000kms for 220€+labor. Considering that we have a lot of traffic you can think about how they usually are!
tell me about it
those workers in Mazda's plant has been buliding nothinb but rotary for their whole life. So I guess their skill should be at least equal if not better than most techs out there. (in terms of engine building of course)
Premix does not leave residue ... in fact most oil wont ... try to get a gallon of gasoline and burn it ... you probably see more ash there than burning a quart of engine oil.
wow ! these plugs look like crap at 25K miles ...
no wonder engine fails over there ...
There's a video online on how they assemble engines in japan. That tells you a lot, don't know if it is the same there in the usa.
Excess of carbon buildup from premix and synth that doesn't burn? If you pick up the right synthetic it will burn way better and with way less residues than a mineral one! Also the premix helps working as a solvent... If you tear an engine apart you will see that in the area where the oil nozzles lubricate the rotor there's close to no carbon. Anyway they all use mazda's 5w30 dexelia here, i run 10w40 royal purple since my car never sees temperatures below 16°C in the garage.
Excess of carbon buildup from premix and synth that doesn't burn? If you pick up the right synthetic it will burn way better and with way less residues than a mineral one! Also the premix helps working as a solvent... If you tear an engine apart you will see that in the area where the oil nozzles lubricate the rotor there's close to no carbon. Anyway they all use mazda's 5w30 dexelia here, i run 10w40 royal purple since my car never sees temperatures below 16°C in the garage.
Premix does not leave residue ... in fact most oil wont ... try to get a gallon of gasoline and burn it ... you probably see more ash there than burning a quart of engine oil.
Guess so, the problem is that they replace the plugs every 60\80.000kms for 220€+labor. Considering that we have a lot of traffic you can think about how they usually are!
no wonder engine fails over there ...
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From: Australia
Carbon build up has been an issue for every rotary ever built that is used for domestic driving in all regions.
Every higher mileage RENESIS 1 engines I have seen on the net has had this same bearing wear, and yeah I agree it is not normal.